FLYGTI

Sweet cause I bit the bullet today and had the dizzy cleaned and put back on.. time will tell thanks for the reply!

After 6 months of running the wrong spark plugs I was getting miss-fire under load and over run. Replaced plugs with new irridium/platinum top range and seemed to fix for a while. The idle seemed rough and had a slight bounce or hunt. To the point one morning she struggled to start and smoke came out of the air intake on first attempt. Then would not start at all and half burnt fuel smell+smoke from air intake each attempt. I tested my spark at the plugs and found I had a weak red/orange spark. I have searched high and low for replacement dizzy to no end. Having purchased a new coil and igniter at some expense I have only been able to find dizzy rebuilders in vic or adilade. being on the gold coast and the car being my daily and already being off the road for 2 weeks (boohoo) I was hoping that the new Dizzy I bought would work..... FAARKIN ebay! I pulled mine apart and gave it a clean and besides some oil leackage looks in very good condition. I don't want to ruin my new igniter if its pooped Could the increased impedence destroy the condensors? p.s. Forgive my spelling if not correct :)

Just wondering how or if a distributor can breaks down/ wears out? If nothing looks broken or worn out how might I go about testing? Below is my internals, bearing seems fine, it was a little oily which I cleaned up.. not overly bad. I have a new seal kit or possible replacements seals. Just want to know if anything can cook or wear out. I had wrong plugs in which caused (I think) the current problem. I'm replacing Coil, Igniter and thinking of getting Dizzy rebuilt but the later is time consuming and possibly further expense. However I have been informed if its broke it will damage new igniter. The cap seal was broken (as expected)

So no love with the new Distributor.... :scarymovie: Wrong plug and wrong pick ups.....FAAAAARK! Ill post pics and see if anyone wants it or can think of anything. just going to use the old one for now as wasnt sure if it was at fault..

The coil lead is in the middle of the plug leads... EDIT; Oopsy again Ill correct myself after looking at my own pic I took of my own dizzy I have been tinkering with for 2 weeks... Now where did I put my medication un-quote. Re EDIT; just noticed the coil lead plug on the pic above is different to my cap??? Should this pose a problem?

Giggles... welcome to my world.. Like I said "frankensteinish" The guy I bought it off (dealer) mentioned the previous owner had "turbo spec`d" it. Implying it was to be turbo charged, couldnt tell me anything though. I did notice the other day it had Green top 250cc injectors, not standard I think? It has daily driven without incident for over 3yrs. All being beside the point as I have plans to add a Z to the AGE. It was I assume slapped together after engine rebuild/transplant as he needed to trade for van just as hed finished. I love it ;)

lol lots of things arent right under my hood.. Althgough on some vary rare gti according to bill sherwood they did have a small port with tvis. However it does seem to me to be frankensteinish. I don't know the history of the car so I don't know. There are blocked off hoses and plugs not plugged into anything. I assume its not original engine. I can't find the engine number...Where is it located? The block has 7 ribs or at least more than a known 3 rib big port I have. The car was built for a hill climb racer by some young dude who put the graphics on (most of which I removed) The engine seems bullet proof and compression tested over the last 3yrs shows even 160psi+ on all four. Radiator fan is hard wired in.... blah blah blah. I did notice the tvis badge has been removed with some effort so not sure if its modded. also zero rust ;) Starting to turn a little now. Shes in for new CVs and replacing coil, igniter and distributor as some freebie platinum plugs ʞ©$ɟed it. Chassis number shows AE92R4agegt1 built on the 6th month of 1992 (- I have also heard that there was a very early (1983) and now rare 4AGE TVIS FWD that had black lettering on the cam cover, but the main difference is that the crank only has six flywheel bolts verses all the other 4AGE's that have eight and so it looks like it has a 4A-C single-cam type crankshaft. - Another odd 4AGE is one that has red lettering on the top, is fitted with TVIS & a big port head, but has a seven-rib block & a 42mm bearing crank. There are much easier to find around the world. They also appear to have no oil squirters on the inside of the block, unlike the regular small port types which do.) ( ) Is pulled from bills page.

its on ebay. AIP Electronics $278 shipped. Guess Ill find out soon enough.. already bought it.. my part number is 19100-16250 The new part number is 19100-16260. Mine has 4 wires and by the looks of it so does new part( Hard to see) I searched hi and low for replacment but getting hard to source, or I'm looking in wrong place. Fingers crossed! If it does work ill be happy as pig in shit as it states its HD

oopsy.. 4age, AE93 GTI, 92 model

1990-1992 Geo Prizm 1.6L 4AGE 1990-1991 Toyota Corolla 1.6L 4AGE Part Ref#s: 19100-16260 TY46 This part is compatible with 5 vehicle(s). Notes Important part details Year Make Model Trim Engine 1.6L 4AGE 1992 Geo Prizm All All 1.6L 4AGE 1991 Geo Prizm All All 1.6L 4AGE 1991 Toyota Corolla All All 1.6L 4AGE 1990 Geo Prizm All All 1.6L 4AGE 1990 Toyota Corolla All All Looks the same?

All my windows have GT14A93..... Serial numbered ;) Am thinking if not... non original perhaps. Not qualified to answer.

Its is still jumpy when cold but gets worse when hot like a bad vibration.. might be vibrating exhuast/cat. Codes 12,14,24... 12 RPM Signal No G or NE signal present for 2 seconds during cranking Open G circuit Open, short in G or NE circuit. Distributor ECU 13 RPM signal No NE signal for 50msec at 1000rpm. Same as Above 14 Ignition No IGF signal to ECU for 4 consecutive IGT signal during engine running Open/short in IGF/IGT signal from igniter to ECU Igniter malfunction ECU 21 O2 sensor Open/short in heater circuit of oxygen sensor for 0.5 seconds Amplitude of O2 sensor reduced to 0.35-0.70V continuously for more than 60 seconds O2 sensor vacuum sensor ECU 22 H2O temperature sensor no signal at THW water temperature sensor ECU 24 Intake Air Temp sensor no signal at THA Intake air temp sensor ECU Think it might be Ignition control module. Ive given up playing mechanic and will be handing it over to recomended guy. PLus needs new CVs from goat track roads ive been commuting on down nimbin way ;) It was out in the rain for a month during bad weather and think is just fragging out. The mighty beast has 354000km body wise newish rebuilt engine 60oooks ago.. still punches out redlines all day long (not that I do it all day long) Excedy HD clutch helps ;)

Hi all. Having trouble working out what to look at/replace after throwing code 12, 14 and 24. I know what they relate to but not sure if I should just replace the parts or how to test. I don't like/trust anyone with my baby as most wouldnt know earhole from arsehole when it comes to the crunch and not wanting to pay $70/hr labour. Starts fine all weather, had some missing issues due to afore mentioned dodgy mech putting wrong plugs in (missing under load) new plugs fixed that. Only issue now is its hunting ever so slightly and becomes rough at idle once warm It will hunt until I come to complete stop then I notice small idle bounce only about 50rpm. Revs wont drop below 1100/1200rpm even with idle screw full closed and I'm still getting vacum from idle control module when hot. Check/bleed cooling system. I am seeing froth in radiator not oil though as comp test is firm across the board. any help or will be nice or tell me I'm being a nance