Rolla Newbie

After all the other dramas I had, the starter motor sometimes simply clicks. I put in a 2nd hand starter motor but it does the same thing. I have disconnected and checked all connections. Has anyone ever had the ignition switch play games? I am wondering if that last little bit (start) in the iggy switch is dead or dying. Has anyone had this problem? Is it common? If it is I will simply reroute wires and put in a starter button like my old FJ. Cheers, Pauo

Got it going :-) Turned out to be a choke that had frozen and was doing weird things to the mixture. And the cam lobes in the dizzy were dry and the timing was out a poofteenth. So some grease, WD40, new points, check timing and mixtures, and it starts first bite.

Who can afford bananas? :D

The major problem with using an oil for diesel engines, in a petrol engine, is that the diesel oils have a 'detergent' in them. This is used in the diesel engine to remove the carbon partilces that get into the oil as a by product of combustion. If you look at used diesel engine oil it is black black black. This is the carbon that has been flushed from the engine. The problem this may cause with a petrol engine is that it removes all the little bits and pieces that build up in the bearings etc. This could cause excessive wear and possible failure. Diesel engines are built to much tighter tolerances than almost any petrol engine. I would use the heavier SAE oil in the heat. I used to live in the Northern Territory and it is hot like Malaysia, and used heavy oil in my old FJ Holden. But I also used Nulon Engine Treatment. That seemed to quieten it down, and reduced the water temp so I guess the engine was running smoother and cooler. It also increased the mileage a little. This stuff worked wonders in my old HR as well. Good luck Paul

My old beastie KE70 with a 3K, is becoming a bugger to start. It starts and simply chuggs away for a couple of minutes. It coughs and backfires with big coughs coming from the air cleaner. Application of the go pedal does nothing. Then it suddnely roars into life and drives fine. This happens whenever the car sits for a couple of hours. Other than this it runs fine and I get over 30mpg as a town runner in ACT. I am thinking : carby leaking fuel and needs to be refilled (needles/seat?), timing? mixture? I have fitted new plugs, leads and air filter. Any clues folks? Paul

Liz If you don't sell it pls contact me Paul

Will do. But she is prety rough.........

KE70 1982 retro fitted with a 3K engine..... not my doing!

I have replaced the dash switch for my rear demister. There seems to be no shorts in the demister itself, but there seems to be one somewhere as both fuses pop when I turn it on. Are there any favourite places the wires may short out? Also, my winder stops winding about 10mm from the top and often free wheels when I wind it down. Does this mean the internal part of the winder is R/S? Are they easy to fix/replace, ie tighten up a nut or bolt, or do I just get a new door like I did on my old 71 FJ50 4WD. Found out what the diff noise was too. I bought a litre to replace the oil that was in the diff. What oil? There was about a tablespoon of grey matter in there. Much quieter now but the tailshaft still flops around so the pinion is probably R/S as well. Thanks all Paul

I would probably give it an oil and filter change withing 500-1000 clicks as well, no point wearing it out too new. And as much as I do not work for them, I have had good results from Nulon oil treatment. I had an old HR with a 186 and it was so much quieter, easier to start, much smoother running, dropped about 10 degrees F on the temp gauge, and improved fuel economy by about 2 mpg. Might be worth considering. Paul

The beast I got from my mate actually has a 3K in it. Goes ok. But is there a huge gain to put a 4K in it? Looking at the HP and torque figures on the FAQ, the 3k seems a little more powerful.... Is there any huge difference in the drivability of the thing likely? No, I don't want to drift, just want a reliable car that is not so slow in the peak hour traffic. Is fine once wound up but slow to take off. Paul

I have been getting differing advice re fuel. Some say these donks will run fine on unleaded, others say to use valve lubricant. Which way to go? Thanking you for your advice Paul

Did most of the above, new filter, coil, leads and dizzy cap. Used carby cleaner. Then....... blew out the return line and the fuel line with compressed air. A lot of restriction on both. Been running fine since! But I like the swap leads over option. Might do that one to impress the kids! Thanks to all. Paul

Recently bought a wee beastie, bog standard KE70. Run like a dream but now if I point it up a hill it dies. Turns over great but no go. Sometimes if I roll and jump start it fine but then sometimes putters out. Other times it roars and off we go for a while. Other times it just clickes and no turn over which I guess is a dodgy solenoid in the starter. Am going to replace plugs, leads and coil. Also fuel pump pressure is ok. My mech tells me there was a hassle with the tank uptake blocking but it seems ok. Help! Carby? Needle and float? Smelly. :lolcry: