BiGGy

Cheers snot, will do. I hit a guard rail, the wheels slipped just under the rail on impact giving the shell the full force, there is no machanical damage which is a budget bonus i guess. I will post progress pics on a new shell which will house a full cams specific roll over cage and a custom fiberglass dash. Then were just going to transfer everything to the new shell.

I kissed a guard rail on the weekend at a hillclimb. But the interesting thing is I got it on the incar. Heres a lead up vid I made on a clean run followed by the stack run. Enjoy eh :D Car will be fixed, but I'm doing up another shell as well for next year.

Rollaclub sticker!

As long as you don't have welds connecting brake components, brake brackets should be one piece parts and usually cast. If they see welds around the wheel area they wont like it and prolly tell you to replace it. Welds are the strongest part of a piece of steel, but only when prepped and welded right, a weld can look good but has no penetration. If you are using bolt on upgrades that haven't been modified it should be ok.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=9343 build pics from when we pulled her from the wreckers for $500. We have only just recently put these mods in and its actually at Haltech now getting cams dialed in and dyno tuned. We are goign to use there maps as a base but I'm really looking forwards to playing around with the windows software and doing some data logging at track days. I also would different load maps for hill climbs etc. The bell shaped lip at the end would smooth the air out a bit and help at high rpm, but not with filters on like mine. I run mostly off road track events so filters are a must for my car. Our main concern when planning the ITBs for my car was hot air from around the engine being sucked in. Almost every fwd twin cam itb setup the trumpets are going straight into the firewall. So we made them curve up 45deg to fit just under the bonnet then I replicated the bonnet in fiberglass with a cai scoop straight onto the filters. I'm thinking of making some sort of half pipe plenum to channel the air to the filters, something to test when playing with the e6x.

running haltech e6x ecu with some pretty long cams to suit. We did a huge amount of research on the intake system before we fit ours, the tapered intake that causes the ram effect is in the throttle bodies themselves, if you measure one of them its a 50mm intake to a 40mm out(roughly) behind the butterfly. This give the ram effect you now just need the velocity behind to increase the effect, the longer the intake pipes before the butterfly the better the effect. The tapered trumpets do very little, in fact most after market ones are straight.

Very nice work, skim read the whole thread. All this custom work remind me of my 82 project. Whats your trade? Careful welding around the wheels though, specially brakes. don't let scrutineering/RTA see welds on control arms or brakes, you will get hammered. Also I don't see the point in having 4x40mm intake bodies being forced into a plenum with only one inlet. K&N make high flow ITB filters specially for this, I would recommend them. Here is a pic of mine on my 82. Very good project I will check back for updates :P

No power figures this update. Car is booked in to Haltech on Monday for Cam adjustments/haltech installation and atw dyno tune and power figures. If everything goes to plan ill post the dyno readings Monday night. For now this is what we have done last couple weekends. The front shaft extension caused the tires to scrap badly on the guards, so we used a 10 ton ram and a block of wood and flared it out about 40mm each side. It worked perfectly. before/after pic. The new manifold totally blocks the stock strut bracing. So this was a good time to start making a new one. Got some arc measurements and cut out the plates with the plasma cutter and the arc swivel, 6mm plate. Gussets made from 8mm plate cut out and bent in place, aligned, fully welded and 12mm bolt whole drilled. To join them is a piece of thick walled seamless pipe welded to a 20ton riggers turn-buckle. One of the U bolt end cut off and the pipe welded in between. Cleaned up and primed. This adjustable turn-buckle has the potentle force to rip the towers from the shassis, this will give us plenty to play with. It will give us another camber adjustment :P. Car winched onto the trailer and taken to the wheel guys. On the hoist Camber reading left right, pretty good considering the shaft extension. Everything was adjusted perfect exept for cast on passenger side which we had to re drill the bolt on the control arm to fix. Now those extension can be fully welded. Another clash with the ITB adapter, brake line fitting has to be redone, it was touching the manifold. Now it has 5mm clearance. Once again another temp weld job on the exhaust, this time its replacing all the 2inch piping with 2.5inch so its a full 2.5inch exhaust, we did this for optimal cam/dyno read outs. We will wait for the welds to rust out and go with a straight through 3inch or something along that line. Started car trailer fabrication. 3ton rating, twin axle, flip down ramps, tire and jerry can holders, draw bar tool box, hydraulic disc brakes. Got this far in a weekend by myself, not bad at all so far. I like it. More build pics can be found here.

no probs, anytime. Any other mod on the car your interested in, just say and ill right up a short diy for it.

The extension consists of a length of 25mm (OD) alluminium pipe at aprox 400-500mm, this size pipe should snug fit over the stock handbrake(about 19-20mm ID). Two bends are bent in it, one to give the vertical angle up, and the other to clear the gearstick a bit. The bends were nothing specialy, stick it in a vice and bend using a larger pipe or anything that will lever it over. Watch it doesnt kink. Stock handbrake bent also, just slightly. (careful you don't rip the mounting bolts out if you do this, give them some support.) Mounting is 3 self tapping screws, max 10mm long. careful not to drill inot the button lever, just into the handle wall. You will need to drill a hole for the self tappers into alli. Make sure you have about 50mm of pipe to slip over the handbrake to take all the pressure(the screws just stop it from twisting and from falling off after the spring back when you let go of it, the pipe should be pretty tight without the screws). Check for gearstick clearance before you drill the mounting holes. This is in between 1st-2nd. So there is a good clearance there. To make the button stay on I drilled a small hole into the handbrake in between the gear cog thingy and that little stopper. A simple clip in the hole will stop it from locking up. press the button a few times and see what goes on down there, you will understand and know where to drill. Just take the clip out to lock it up again (for car trailer transport etc). The extension can be removed by taking out the screws and putting the stock slip-over handle back on.. hiding the holes. Hope ive covered everything here for a DIY to your car.

Ok, also I don't know where the supercharger sits in the gze or the cooler piping. If you can give a pic of your engine bay would be easier to quote. Maybe move this convo to pm.

Yes this is possible, it wont be cheap though. I could get a quote for you. So you want a plenum that goes from your s/c to an even 4 throttle bodies? And then the quad runner adaption into the head?

No probs, ill get some more pics and a description for you to do it, its not that hard to do. ... Didn't do much today but ring around and ask questions. We were going to do a compression test but we will do it tomorow. Checked the fuses, one was shot and we replaced it. Hooked up the alternator cranked it and still no spark. Rang up Haltech they said don't even bother trying to start it, the e6x replaces most of the loom anyway they said they will sort all the electrics out. They are booked 20 cars ahead, so we have to wait next week to go further with the engine. Before Haltech we need to get the wheels aligned and balanced professionally. Were going to winch it onto the trailer and take it to a local wheel alignment guy we know pretty well. While we are there we will get his advice on camber/caster setup, get that as best we can and then fully weld the control arm extensions. Its going to go slow for a while so my next update will be when she is up and running with vids and quarter mile times. Stay tuned.

Thanks guys, ECU is going to be a Haltech E6X. ... Today. This is the tire rod ends now. The extension is from a Subaru Leoni. We spend awhile getting the engine placment perfect. Allot of fiddling, measuring and crow bar levering but we finally go it to where we want, this is the play we we were talking about that we need. about 15mm each side. Front mount just redrilled the crossmember, was pretty easy job. Passenger mount welded onto the mount plate on the gearbox. driver side mount, cut lip out, replated and fully welded. We hooked up all the electrics, allot of looms not hooked up but we expected it with custom vacuum etc. We made a mistake and hooked up the ground cable from the negative terminal to the positive on the solenoid on the starter instead of the chassis. When we flicked the isolator switch smoke was everywhere lol. We fixed it up and tried again. The engine is cranking but not starting, we checked with different plugs and nothing, we checked the stock coil wiring and bypassed by hooking a wire from the battery right to the coil... and still no spark. We are thinking its an electric connection we haven't hooked up somewhere or maybe a blown fuse from the smoky short circuit. Either way this is the part that me or dad nows nothing about, we are going to get a professional auto elecy we know to come out and fix it for us. Mid week is the plan to tune the cams and haltech. Bonnet primed and sanded.