BiGGy

Cheers snot, will do. I hit a guard rail, the wheels slipped just under the rail on impact giving the shell the full force, there is no machanical damage which is a budget bonus i guess. I will post progress pics on a new shell which will house a full cams specific roll over cage and a custom fiberglass dash. Then were just going to transfer everything to the new shell.

I kissed a guard rail on the weekend at a hillclimb. But the interesting thing is I got it on the incar. Heres a lead up vid I made on a clean run followed by the stack run. Enjoy eh :D Car will be fixed, but I'm doing up another shell as well for next year.

Rollaclub sticker!

As long as you don't have welds connecting brake components, brake brackets should be one piece parts and usually cast. If they see welds around the wheel area they wont like it and prolly tell you to replace it. Welds are the strongest part of a piece of steel, but only when prepped and welded right, a weld can look good but has no penetration. If you are using bolt on upgrades that haven't been modified it should be ok.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=9343 build pics from when we pulled her from the wreckers for $500. We have only just recently put these mods in and its actually at Haltech now getting cams dialed in and dyno tuned. We are goign to use there maps as a base but I'm really looking forwards to playing around with the windows software and doing some data logging at track days. I also would different load maps for hill climbs etc. The bell shaped lip at the end would smooth the air out a bit and help at high rpm, but not with filters on like mine. I run mostly off road track events so filters are a must for my car. Our main concern when planning the ITBs for my car was hot air from around the engine being sucked in. Almost every fwd twin cam itb setup the trumpets are going straight into the firewall. So we made them curve up 45deg to fit just under the bonnet then I replicated the bonnet in fiberglass with a cai scoop straight onto the filters. I'm thinking of making some sort of half pipe plenum to channel the air to the filters, something to test when playing with the e6x.

running haltech e6x ecu with some pretty long cams to suit. We did a huge amount of research on the intake system before we fit ours, the tapered intake that causes the ram effect is in the throttle bodies themselves, if you measure one of them its a 50mm intake to a 40mm out(roughly) behind the butterfly. This give the ram effect you now just need the velocity behind to increase the effect, the longer the intake pipes before the butterfly the better the effect. The tapered trumpets do very little, in fact most after market ones are straight.

Very nice work, skim read the whole thread. All this custom work remind me of my 82 project. Whats your trade? Careful welding around the wheels though, specially brakes. don't let scrutineering/RTA see welds on control arms or brakes, you will get hammered. Also I don't see the point in having 4x40mm intake bodies being forced into a plenum with only one inlet. K&N make high flow ITB filters specially for this, I would recommend them. Here is a pic of mine on my 82. Very good project I will check back for updates :P

No power figures this update. Car is booked in to Haltech on Monday for Cam adjustments/haltech installation and atw dyno tune and power figures. If everything goes to plan ill post the dyno readings Monday night. For now this is what we have done last couple weekends. The front shaft extension caused the tires to scrap badly on the guards, so we used a 10 ton ram and a block of wood and flared it out about 40mm each side. It worked perfectly. before/after pic. The new manifold totally blocks the stock strut bracing. So this was a good time to start making a new one. Got some arc measurements and cut out the plates with the plasma cutter and the arc swivel, 6mm plate. Gussets made from 8mm plate cut out and bent in place, aligned, fully welded and 12mm bolt whole drilled. To join them is a piece of thick walled seamless pipe welded to a 20ton riggers turn-buckle. One of the U bolt end cut off and the pipe welded in between. Cleaned up and primed. This adjustable turn-buckle has the potentle force to rip the towers from the shassis, this will give us plenty to play with. It will give us another camber adjustment :P. Car winched onto the trailer and taken to the wheel guys. On the hoist Camber reading left right, pretty good considering the shaft extension. Everything was adjusted perfect exept for cast on passenger side which we had to re drill the bolt on the control arm to fix. Now those extension can be fully welded. Another clash with the ITB adapter, brake line fitting has to be redone, it was touching the manifold. Now it has 5mm clearance. Once again another temp weld job on the exhaust, this time its replacing all the 2inch piping with 2.5inch so its a full 2.5inch exhaust, we did this for optimal cam/dyno read outs. We will wait for the welds to rust out and go with a straight through 3inch or something along that line. Started car trailer fabrication. 3ton rating, twin axle, flip down ramps, tire and jerry can holders, draw bar tool box, hydraulic disc brakes. Got this far in a weekend by myself, not bad at all so far. I like it. More build pics can be found here.

no probs, anytime. Any other mod on the car your interested in, just say and ill right up a short diy for it.

The extension consists of a length of 25mm (OD) alluminium pipe at aprox 400-500mm, this size pipe should snug fit over the stock handbrake(about 19-20mm ID). Two bends are bent in it, one to give the vertical angle up, and the other to clear the gearstick a bit. The bends were nothing specialy, stick it in a vice and bend using a larger pipe or anything that will lever it over. Watch it doesnt kink. Stock handbrake bent also, just slightly. (careful you don't rip the mounting bolts out if you do this, give them some support.) Mounting is 3 self tapping screws, max 10mm long. careful not to drill inot the button lever, just into the handle wall. You will need to drill a hole for the self tappers into alli. Make sure you have about 50mm of pipe to slip over the handbrake to take all the pressure(the screws just stop it from twisting and from falling off after the spring back when you let go of it, the pipe should be pretty tight without the screws). Check for gearstick clearance before you drill the mounting holes. This is in between 1st-2nd. So there is a good clearance there. To make the button stay on I drilled a small hole into the handbrake in between the gear cog thingy and that little stopper. A simple clip in the hole will stop it from locking up. press the button a few times and see what goes on down there, you will understand and know where to drill. Just take the clip out to lock it up again (for car trailer transport etc). The extension can be removed by taking out the screws and putting the stock slip-over handle back on.. hiding the holes. Hope ive covered everything here for a DIY to your car.

Ok, also I don't know where the supercharger sits in the gze or the cooler piping. If you can give a pic of your engine bay would be easier to quote. Maybe move this convo to pm.

Yes this is possible, it wont be cheap though. I could get a quote for you. So you want a plenum that goes from your s/c to an even 4 throttle bodies? And then the quad runner adaption into the head?

No probs, ill get some more pics and a description for you to do it, its not that hard to do. ... Didn't do much today but ring around and ask questions. We were going to do a compression test but we will do it tomorow. Checked the fuses, one was shot and we replaced it. Hooked up the alternator cranked it and still no spark. Rang up Haltech they said don't even bother trying to start it, the e6x replaces most of the loom anyway they said they will sort all the electrics out. They are booked 20 cars ahead, so we have to wait next week to go further with the engine. Before Haltech we need to get the wheels aligned and balanced professionally. Were going to winch it onto the trailer and take it to a local wheel alignment guy we know pretty well. While we are there we will get his advice on camber/caster setup, get that as best we can and then fully weld the control arm extensions. Its going to go slow for a while so my next update will be when she is up and running with vids and quarter mile times. Stay tuned.

Thanks guys, ECU is going to be a Haltech E6X. ... Today. This is the tire rod ends now. The extension is from a Subaru Leoni. We spend awhile getting the engine placment perfect. Allot of fiddling, measuring and crow bar levering but we finally go it to where we want, this is the play we we were talking about that we need. about 15mm each side. Front mount just redrilled the crossmember, was pretty easy job. Passenger mount welded onto the mount plate on the gearbox. driver side mount, cut lip out, replated and fully welded. We hooked up all the electrics, allot of looms not hooked up but we expected it with custom vacuum etc. We made a mistake and hooked up the ground cable from the negative terminal to the positive on the solenoid on the starter instead of the chassis. When we flicked the isolator switch smoke was everywhere lol. We fixed it up and tried again. The engine is cranking but not starting, we checked with different plugs and nothing, we checked the stock coil wiring and bypassed by hooking a wire from the battery right to the coil... and still no spark. We are thinking its an electric connection we haven't hooked up somewhere or maybe a blown fuse from the smoky short circuit. Either way this is the part that me or dad nows nothing about, we are going to get a professional auto elecy we know to come out and fix it for us. Mid week is the plan to tune the cams and haltech. Bonnet primed and sanded.

Bearing carrier machined to fit. Then gusseted, welded, cleaned up and painted. New cam mount to the rear. Engine in. Putting the CVs in we dropped out all the bearing inernals by mistake, it took us like 3 hours to put it back together. We finally fix it but ran out of daylight. Should have everyone in and going tomorow.

Old starter hole taped up. Synthetic gearbox oil, cold 1 spark plugs, oil hosing and vacuum hosing. The race clutch arrived early. See the difference here. This clutch is supposed to really lock in and not slip at all. can't wait to test it out. Leads off the spare car, they match the rocker covers. Flywheel bolted up, clutch plate on and clutch aligned. Gearbox on, starter on. Synthetic engine oil and filter in, 98ron fuel in. Water piping, the thick one was custom redirected around the starter. I cut out the driver upper mounting holes in prep for the engine shift. We need to overplate it to get the strength back. Vac hosing on. This is the bearing carrier that the e58 must have to support the axel on one side. Some 8mm mild steel plate bolted to the block, with this pipe cutoff welded on. Bearing carrier machined down to fit the bearing into the pipe. We should have the engine in and idling by tomorow or Monday.

Should be fitting and running the engine tomorow. If not Sunday. Standard clutch arrived today, fit the spline perfect. Shot of the vac fittings. In car shot of the steering wheel extension. The handbrake extension too.

Today Intergrated a vacuum chamber onto the manifold. Consists of some alli plate and 25mm square hollow section. vac pipes from each inlet to the chamber then vac pipes to the brake booster and to the haltech chip. Forgot pix of the vac fittings. Fully welded the steering wheel extension to the base plate. Machined aluminum insert geting taped and bolted to the boss and in around the pipe. This way we can change the length if needed. Gave a center hole to allow a socket in to fasten the spline nut. We decided to buy new mounts, we picked them up from Toyota. We ordered the axle bearing, we don't have one that matches, be hear tomorow. We should have the engine in the car by tomorow with it running by Sunday.

Ok cheers, we have already finalised the compresion at an estimated 10.5 to 1. Still would like to hear what I can get to on 98ron, thanks for your help. Today... Cleaned up the block a bit more and painted black. heres a final shot of the polished chambers. Faced the block with a file and a wire brush. Got the carbon off the pistons and polished them up a abit, got all the lumbs out of the cast metal. As i was cleaning the pistons up I noticed very clear crosshatching down the bores, this combined with the new gasket goo around the sump is a sign that its been completely reconditioned since new. New bearings and seals etc. This is a very good sign and give us comfidence in the block handling the high revs of the head. New gasket on. Head on, cams removed to tighten head bolts. We used a toque wrench at the right torsion. Cams back in. guides on. Correct torsion. crank pulley removed to get to the timing belt, tension pulley pulled back cam gears set to the stock positioning (we are getting the cams adjusted professionally on a dyno later next week). New timing belt on at the correct tension with the crank still at top dead center. 100mm steering wheel extension consists of a turned alloy pipe welded to the stock steering plate, at the top bolted to the boss which is bolted to the wheel. This should give me a much better steering wheel position for optimal arm movement. One of the axel bearings is rat****, we poped it off using the press. We have another one in the shop, we may have to make a casing for it. Chucked the flywheel on the lathe. surface ground as much metal as I felt comfortable, 1kg a steel removed making it 6.5kg. We ordered a rally spec clutch today, I didnt make the order so I don't know any details but it cost $280 and is made to order. We also bought a new standard clutch for $60 to mess around with tuning etc until the race one arrives. We already have the pressure plate. A shot of the dedicated rally car work bench. Not very clean atm.

Yeah i figured, I'm thinking of attaching it to the dash with a custom shifter.

Today I took the engine back out of the car, gave it a degrease bath and pulled off the stock head to get ready for the new one. Top dead center is set on the crank to guide the basic cam timing. Pistons look fantastic, and so does he head gasket, no seal problems of any kind. Priced some engine mounts today, surprised they are in the high 300-400$ mark. We decided to take the mounts off the spare car and use them till they snap, they look fine for wear atm.

Working on the car everyday now, till we finish this conversion ill be updating every day to help me remember everything(for my own records too). The rest of the cv assembly arrived today, recond v6 camry hub axles. Bolted up to the hubs. And completely bolted up. both sides. This is how far the engine needs to shift. Its more like 10mm(the engine is just resting on the cross member with no mounts). In a street car we wouldn't even worry about shifting it, but in a rough racing environment we can't risk the shaft smashing into the gearbox on an impact, we really need that play in the shafts to be safe. Mounts shouldn't take to long, welding 2, replating 1 and overplate rewelding another, we just need to buy some new mounts now. This is an adjustable strut top off an old commodore we grabed form the wreckers, we are going to fit them to the strut tops and re drill the towers for them to fit. These will help us adjust the insane camber back if we need to. A better shot of the control arm extension. This will be fully welded when everything is in place before the next race.

Very good idea with the gear stick ill look into that. I don't feel a short shifter is really needed but that mod will do allot. We have been looking into a hudrulic handbrake setup for a while. We are thinking of a duel handbrake setup one for each wheel with a clip to operate both at the same time if wanted. My father had this setup in his mini and it worked well when you get the hang of it. Will definitely be doing a handbrake upgrade soon for the time being this handbrake extension is vertical right next to the gear shift and should be much better then the stocky for now. (actually atm we can't get the rear brakes to work at all since our pad change its got as really stumped)

yes we have already tested the mounting. ive added comments about the mounting next to the pics.