BiGGy

e58 box has the starter moter mounts on the other side to a standard ae82 box. Not only that but the stock starter didnt line up to the new mounting holes, lucky we have a wrecked ae101(where this box was originaly out of) at the local wreckers. We had to cut a new hole in the bell housing spacer plate, grind about 5mil from the block and redirect a water pipe around it to make the little bugger fit. But we tested it with a 12v batery and it turns the engine sweeet, so it was all worth it. I'm going to add some descriptions to each pic now i got the time.

fiberglass bonnet almost done. full worklog can be read here.

fuel rail polished and looking purdy. rocker cover lettering faced to give a nice effect. see below posts for info on the starter. One of the mounts we had to modify to make the e58 fit. don't know how this got in here, nothing to do with the car. New handbrake extension with a pushbike handle grip attached. Reference to the above post this is how much we had to extent the control arms to make the axels fit. Tie rod end from a suberu liberty will give the steering collum thread we need also. Didnt get any finish pics of this work, must of forgot. Camry cv shafts. axles are still on there way.

A 20v injector and a 16v one. The 16v is the bigger one. New gasket kit New high, long cams are in they are really massive, can't wait to hear them in action. Putting the head together now, fine tuning butterflies. painting water pipe bits Big story behind this pic. The axels for the cvs for the e58 lsd have to be made up to match fit. But we have decided to use camry v6 axels now as well give us a complete camry v6 cv setup. The Camry shafts are 25mm to big to fit into an ae82... so we are extending control arms and steering collum to suit. Its not that easy tho, the ae82 4age is 15mm off center compared to the v6 camry engine so we have to shift the engine 15mm to the passenger side. 2 of the 4 mounts are an easy cut and weld job, 1 came with an adjusting plate and fits fine. The driver side mount is going to be the tricky one, we will have to replate and redrill it but we will manage without any strengh loss. This will allow v6 cv shafts/axels.joints to bolt up complete. The pictue below is the wicked camber we have to play with that the control arms have caused by pushing the wheels out 25mm. stainless steel elbows were scraped because of a bonnet clearance issue we are just using 50mm stainless sleeves for the filters now. Clutch master cylinder may have to be moved still. This is my TIG welding :bash: cleaned polished and test fit with some filters.

and how much to shave off the head to get it? We are limited to bowser fuels so I think 11:1 would be to much for 98 octane I think 10-10.5:1 would be ideal, anyone think the same?

Yes compression will be the only thing holding the car back after all this, we have already shaved 3/1000 of an inch off but this is very small. We are on a budget on the car so new pistons will come later, we are not sure yet on how much compression to add to it now but shaving the head will be the way we will do it at this time. We are thinking around 30/1000 inch will take it up past 11.1 we have to take into consideration the porting we did that has taken compression away. The head guy told us not to shave but he just wants more money from us. Does anyone know what compression ratio I should run on this? I can weld alli but I'm not very good at it, I got a workmate to weld that manifold up for me. Thanks for your comments.

cheers Teddy ;)

We decided to start the fitment some of these power mods, so the car will be out of action for a bit. We also want to test fit the new lsd e58 so we can foresee any probs. Pulling the donk out, unlinking all electronics, hoses, mounts etc etc etc Test fit the new manifold while we were at it. Fits nice. skid plate is very battered, we may replace it with a 5mm one. Chained up and pulled out slowly, on an angle so it would fit through. The e58 lines up perfect but there is another problem the starter motor is on the shaft side and the mounting holes for it on the bell housing are to far apart and the gearing doesnt line up, we got several other Toyota starter motors from the wrecking yard to test them out but none fit, we may add a mounting bracket or something we are still thinking. We have found a solution to our shaft prob. We gave the gearbox to a local CV guy to see what he can do, the v6 camry (any model) cv splines bolts right up to the stub splines into the gearbox. I'm not sure about all the info dads sorting this one out. All the CV guy wants to know is the distance from hub to the camry spline flange to get the right length on a cut down axle. Looks hopeful (and cheap). The shaft sticking out in the pic below is the driver side (long end) spline sitting nicely into the lsd e58. The new high tensile valves, $400 for the set wahwahweewah! The quads take a bath. squeaky clean. Stainless steel elbows are going to bolt onto the quads, made some s/s plates to suit. This is how they will look but with big angled K&N filter ontop, When we install all this they should be pointing upwards or close to. With the cai scoop in the fiberglass bonnet they should have a nice effect. Still working on the bonnet, finished the plug now (below). Will cast the mold this weekend, and the positive replica the next weekend. We are unhappy with the final camber porting. We dug right in again and started molding it a bit better. Took the lip ridge out of every seal and formed a better curve down the wall. Havent finished yet.

Wow a very clean setup you will have there, thats allot of money and I hope it all goes well. I don't believe you will get 450hp atw, but I would like to see that! Ive got a few questions and suggestions if you don't mind. What cam specs and compression will you be running on this setup? Are you increasing valve sizes at all? Thats an enormous amount of pressure to get 450hp, have you thought of boring and re sleeving the block to be on the safe side? Also a de-stroked forged crank with some with bearing replacements would be a good idea, that will also play with toque alot. You are throwing alot of dosh into this, maybe some pneumatic valve springs, titanium rods and the above mods could be the next step in this project and will allow up to 15k rpm which will give you 500hp+ atw. You know it might of been easier if you sourced an ex turbo formula atlantic 4ag. They would be around the same dollar mark and have 600-800hp. Though I would imagine they be very hard to find these days if at all.

I believe club event regulations state that the exhaust must have a working muffler and must clear the body of the car. Not only that the noise will be deafening at high rpm to the people around.

Also started a fiberglass bonnet replice with added intake scoop for the quads. Check out the worklog. Cams are ordered, 304dur intake 290dur exhaust. Some progress pics on the ITB manifold. My dream lift kit...

update: 18mm rear sway job arrived and installed, literately a 10 minute job. New front sway bar and suspension bushes. Control arms removed, old bushes removed (had to burn one out). wire brushed and painted New bushes pressed in. All bolted back up. The rims bought from bway. I have started my fiberglassing. Here are some pods I made for the car. Checkout the full worklog here. Wired up, senders in.

yeah I know that now, we took it out. The massive update in the above 3 posts have been copy pasted from ae82forums.

Inlet finished with 80 grit, we read up that this end is best left slightly ruffed instead of polished for better air/fuel mixing. The valve guides will be shaved down about 4mm so they don't stick out so much. Exhaust ports ported out a bit and finished with a 120grit wall. The combustion chamber took the longest, we wanted a mirror finish with all casting imperfections out. You cannot touch the valve seals whatsoever so we put the stock valves in to protect them. few of the boys from work wanted a go too. Finished product. Rocker covers acid dipped and painted. The lettering will be surfaced and polished. Started some FB work. Dash pods. Not finished yet, will finish tommorow anzac day b4 I start on the brew Big thanks to whoever made this site that helped guide us through the port and polish process. http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/2341/pandp.htm

Been slow at work so we have been smashing the car. Quads arrived in good time. Injectors plate came with, we wont be needing this. One of the throttle bodies has a broken bolt hole, so we bilt it up with cast rods and redrilled. Started on the ITB manifold/adaptor plate. We measure up and plotted all holes for ITB plate. I transfered them to CAD. Started the hole layout on the mill. We are using 12mm aluminium plate. All small holes drilled and tapped to m6x1 thread. 8 of the 12 holes countersunk to 8.9mm - 4mm deep. Test fit one before we went further. Drilling the large flow holes. Started with a 40mm drill. Then counterbored 100 thou at a time. Milled some clearance slots for the tps, shamfer one corner also to clear a hole. Fits up perfect! We cut off the plate from the stock manifold. We will be using this plate for the block end. Bilt up with casting rods so we can cut the center dividers out. Face machine flat, welds shaved flush and flow holes match ported with the head. We milled the flow holes to fit these alli pipes we had in stock. Two lengths bent to 90deg. They are then centered and cut to give us 4x 45deg bends. Used a machined dolly to shape and flare the ends to match the oval head flow holes. This was just a test piece, we will do the rest tomorrow. The head came back from the head guy. Nice and clean from the acid bath ready to port & polish more.

Just an update while i have time. took the extractors off the parts car, they are genie extractors. We removed the stock headers off the race car. Fit the news ones, after a wire brush and paint. We had to use the second length too to make the flanges fit up. While we were at it we removed the Cat converter. And replaced it with a straight through pipe, 2.5" to match the rest. Flared and clamped at one end, flange taken off the cat converter, cleaned up and welded. Working on a car at eye level hight is a godsend, don't think we would be able to get this far without the forklift, anyone thinking of doing a project car up, make sure you have a hoist of some kind. Rubber grommet supports had to be welded on as well. High tensile bolt replacements all round for heat resistance. I also noticed the fuel lines have lost there guards from scraping, and are getting very rusty in places. Need to do something about that. Started the head work. Removed the rocker covers, Cams and gears off the parts car. Our plan is to do this head up completely and simply replace it in the race car when we are done so that only one day is needed for the car to be out of action. We got referred to a CAM company in brissy that can reshimed and grind existing stock cams to race spec. We gave them a call and for $120 more they can make brand new ones up with better options performance wise, as well as adjustable ends. $620 for new cams. Took the head right off the spare car to start work on it. The spare car was mis firing in one cylinder when we got it. You can see the difference now, water is all through it and the edge of the piston head is not clean like the rest. The gasket is not broken which means it could be a valve problem. Removed the cam followers, these are all a thousandths of a mm difference in thickness, if you don't document these in pairs like they cam off, valves will open at different times and cause many problems later on. Layed out the order we took them off and packed safely for when we need them again. Removed the manifold and found a spacer plate with some butterflies hooked up to a vacuum guage. I think this is some sort of limiter at high rpm, but I'm not sure, never seen it before. If we don't need it, we will use it to fabricate a 45 degree ITB adapter. Got this bad boy off ebay for $200 delivered. Ready for a port and polish, we have lost our valve remover so we are going to drop it off at the head guy down the road to remove them and get him to acid bath it overnight at the same time. in the mean time we can only port/polish this end. We use a dye grinder with a cutting bit first to form the walls and shape/smooth it out. There are some casting imperfections we got out and shaved it out about 5mm larger. Made them as identical as possible, use one object as a clearance fit and made the rest to suit. The center divider was ground back thinned out and formed to a shaper point. Snap shot of me at a recent club test and tune. I got some good times to benchmark off. Over the 2 days I rolled 6 tires.

thanks ive decided to go with the adaptor plate.

I need some quad throttle bodies and stacks for my 4age 16 valve bigport. All I see is 20v ones and the adapter plate. Is there no production quads for a 16 valve? Can someone give me the inside diameter of one of these 20v throttle bodies? cheers -BiGs

update, been awhile on this site. New paint scheme. Vinyle stickers: Toyota, company logo, my name and number. Isolator switch with new battery. 1st outright in a kharnacross. Brakes acid dipped, machined and painted. heavy duty pads all round. We lost the key so we installed a missile ignition. Fire. Hillclimb last weekend, alot of cars, came 3rd in my class. short vid on the day

car panels are very thin, when paints off, they should be 0.6-1.6mm. Make sure you turn the temp way down, try and pulse(spot) weld to learn first. Argoshield is the gas to use, make sure the steel you are welding is clear of rust/grit/paint/oil for maximum peno. When a gas mig is correctly tuned there should be no splatter at all. Play around and take your time to reset your mig at various temps and adjust wire speed accordingly, remember that the distance from nozzle to work peice effects these variables, you should master this before welding anything. Use mild steel mig wire on car panels, anything 1.2mm or less, the welder will be setup for a wire thickness already, just use that. Make sure you buy wear gloves, long pants and long sleeves to stop flash burn. I'm 2nd year boilermaker, hope i helped. pm for any questions.

I think the fastest car ive been in is a 2005 Porsche 911, although last weekend i went passanger test driving a friends newly twin turboed vx clubsport 6ltr. I think that will be a close match. The fastest speed ive been is in my vr-x 215kmh on the F3 down mooney mooney at 3am.

I watched that also today, in the finals the 2 ke20 raced... was sooo close, like 0.05 secs out. Good to see the rollas beating the v8 mini rails etc.

Good to see some custom mechanical work going on, keep it up, Ill read all of it later. I remember reading a how to article on fitting a second alternator on the belt, can't remember where I seen it.

The sprinter wants to be a rolla,lol

I would say thats it, which makes it easier for me, following that other thread and all.