styler

Ok so there was a member request for KE corolla weights from the old "Qld Code of Practice - Light Motor Vehicles" I have dusted off the old book and taken a few pages regarding the KE rolla weights and some relevant pre/post pages, https://www.pdf-archive.com/2017/07/11/queensland-code-of-practice-selected-pages/ The unlock: corolla These selected pages are for engine swaps regarding vehicle weights for both pre - approved swaps and weight based swaps. Note the page numbers as this is not an extract page after page, its separate relevant pages as needed.

Ok so there was a member request for KE corolla weights from the old "Qld Code of Practice - Light Motor Vehicles" I have dusted off the old book and taken a few pages regarding the KE rolla weights and some relevant pre/post pages, https://www.pdf-archive.com/2017/07/11/queensland-code-of-practice-selected-pages/ The unlock: corolla These selected pages are for engine swaps regarding vehicle weights for both pre - approved swaps and weight based swaps. Note the page numbers as this is not an extract page after page, its separate relevant pages as needed.

Don't worry about the rears, do the fronts first if not done already... and then rears are almost just for drift hydro handbrake antics. Would suggest to convert to ae86 front setup first with brake upgrade for ae86 and then later do t series diff conversion which allows lsd options and drum to disc options... Suspension options also open up with ae86 fronts / t series rear end for more performance...

Nice to see the updates rolling in :) With the oil temps you want to keep it hot enough burn off the water so above 100 deg c really but once you hit around 120 deg c it seems you start to degrade the oil. Keep in mind these would be sender/gauge temps and the oil would vary in temp internally, ie be a lot hotter say 130 deg or more in some places. I think you also have to consider the viscosity and oil quality as well as thicker oil and better quality may allow higher readings but 120 deg c gauge should be a good upper limit to start with. There are a lot a articles on aircraft engines discussing oil temps, there was a graph that every 10 deg c over the specified upper limit degrades the oil life in half which was interesting...

Stock from factory: (Work in progress, so feel free to add anything...will update/correct as needed) Car: Caliper: Rotor: Hub: Stub Flange: Backing Plate Bolts: Inner Bearing: Outer Bearing: ke1x drum 110x4 85x4 85x4 M8 sumito 110x4 85x4 85x4 M8 akebono 110x4 85x4 85x4 M8 ke2x drum 110x4 85x4 85x4 M8 sumito 200x10 110x4 85x4 85x4 M8 akebono 200x10 110x4 85x4 85x4 M8 ke3x sumito 200x10 114.3x4 85x4 85x4 M8 akebono 200x10 114.3x4 85x4 85x4 M8 ke5x girlock 218x10 114.3x4 85x4 85x4 M10x1.25 ke7x girlock 218x12 114.3x4 85x4(3only) 85x4(3 only) M10x1.25 Will have to paste some sort of table... The editor keeps messing up the spacing

It's hard to tell what people are using after searching countless threads but I am interested to know as well, I seemed to get the following setups out of it... 1. hydro cam, hydro lifter gutted and modified, suitable pushrod, hydro rockers(non adjustable) 2. hydro cam, hydro lifter gutted and modified, suitable pushrod, solid rockers(adjustable) 3. solid cam, solid lifter, suitable pushrod, solid rockers(adjustable) 4. leave the damn hydro's alone 1. The minimal way Gut the hydro lifter out and modify it to use a suitable pushrod length to the hydro rockers(non adjustable) 2. The halfway conversion Gut the hydro lifter out and modify it to use a suitable pushrod length to solid rockers(adjustable) 3. The complete conversion Seems there's 2 types of suitable solid lifter: 5k/3f solid and the other a holden/chev 202 solid. All lifters need to be faced to match the camshaft, ie ground to suit the cam profile. The pushrods appear to be various length k motor pushrods and datsun a12 pushrods.The rocker gear needs to be the adjustable (solid) type not the non adjustable (hydro). The main problem seems to be the pushrod length due to different head heights, block heights, skimmed heads, reground cams, machined posts and headgasket thickness all adding up affecting the pushrod length needed. So no one solution seems to cover all motor builds really, probably best to dummy assemble the motor and then measure up for a set of custom pushrods to suit rather than try make everything else magically fit the few pushrod lengths available. So one would get a solid cam, solid lifters, solid adjustable rockers and then dummy assemble the motor, measure pushrod length required and hope one exists or get some made custom to suit. Maybe lighten the solid lifters with a bit of machining as well if needed. That's my theory so far anyway... 4. No conversion No work required, just leave them perfectly good hydro's in there There's 2 oil feed warnings, one for shims if used under the cam towers needing an oil feed hole in them and one for blocking off an oil gallery feed to the original hydro lifters if removed via grubscrew/pin of sorts.

Yeah you would think to use a suitable solid lifter, get them ground to hydro, use suitable pushrods that keep the same swipe adjustment on the rockers but not entirely sure if you can run a solid valve train on a hydro cam even with hydro-faced solid lifters to suit though... hmmm

Nice project, just a little info the k series crossmember is not ideal for mounting the t series motors but you can remount or use a conversion kit to get the motor and gearbox position and mounting a lot better, if you want it engineered for road use.

Sounds like a good build, there's a lot of work involved though :)

I have heard some negative results from your combo, maybe check it out first before installing just to be on the safe side...

Been done plenty of times, either lowered springs for those factory struts or entire aftermarket / custom coilovers. No point in using another cars springs if they aren't the exact size / rate / height needed which would be very unusual but not impossible. Make sure they are captive at full droop in the end. Coilovers are a lot of work and there are no aftermarket ones for ke3x but you can get a 48mm DIY basic kit from HSD, you would need a lot of other stuff to make it work though.

Well the magic triangle says you gotta have fuel, spark and air to run so if the motor compression is good then it could be one of them... Just check each system as you go i guess... Check fuel system: fuel pump, fuel line flow, fuel filters, carby, carby shutoff solenoid, carby screw settings etc Check ignition system: look at plugs, leads, dizzy advance, dwell angle etc Check air: Compression test, air filter, vacuum leaks etc Seems you are onto this already but from your informative post I would say there could be a few things that came to mind... The vac advance is needed unless you have recurved the dizzy, it pulls much needed advance when needed You can run a ballast or non ballast system as you please but you need to wire it up correctly though as per the system intended The carb may have some sort of crap in it or a sticky part not functioning correctly after rebuild There's two types of vacuum, manifold and ported, they function slightly differently and can cause running problems if disconnected hastily The shared manifold design can be problematic with sealing due to warped faces, differences in flange thicknesses and proper tightening That crankcase breather should at least have a air filter on it rather than blocked but better with a pcv system and catch can

There is one insert that has a very short body, small diameter and shorter stroke, its from an early vw rabbit. Some of the early mr2 stuff was discontinued when I looked a few years back trying to get inserts. Look up "short stroke" inserts, which are more common as an aftermarket race listing with dimensions eg trd.

Be careful, you might need the factory diff width for engineering I believe, check the ncop and talk to an mod plate engineer. They don't like wheel spacers but a set of hub centric bolt on ones might pass, you will have to check. Another option is to sell that diff to the AE86 crowd and get a zenki T series with drums, a lot cheaper for the diff and easier to convert.

You need an evenly split diff from driveshaft flange to drum brake face to suit a xE2x last I looked, that's the tunnel position I believe. The reason you can't respline the same section is that the splines are rolled onto the axle, so they extend above and below the surface level. You can't replicate that by cutting. So you need to move up the axle to a bigger step and respline that by cutting into it. The problem is the bigger step is further up the axle and shortens the axle by too much. The solution is to find a longer axle with a thicker diameter and also which has the same wheel flange and also a conversion bearing that suits the housing and the axle ID and OD. Happy hunting at the wreckers!