Davros El Davros

I bent a pushrod in my 5k at the start of last year, think it was a stuck valve or something... It was a major hassle to replacement rods ordered in from my Toyota dealer here, and we ordered in 2 sets before giving up cause they were all the wrong length for a 5k. I searched all the local wreckers here in Wollongong, with no luck. Ended up ordering a brand new set from Crow Cams in Victoria, who as it turns out make after market Chromoly 5k pushrods, ball to ball, with the oil hole for hydraulic lifters. Think the whole set was like $120 bucks or something, and they turned up the next day. Best to order from Crow Cams direct, as Repco and other places wanted ridiculous amounts for the same product. If you just need one replacement rod for your 5k I have a few second hand ones at home. Send us a message and Ill post one down to you. Davros

hey there.. I am in the process of doing the brakes in my KE10 and am facing the same issue.. Have been doing a bit of research and it seems that you can chuck in a booster from a KE30 or a later model with a bit of modification or use something from a Chrysler Galant.. The option I am probably going with is using a PBR VH44 remote booster, that can be mounted on the other side of the engine bay, or wherever it fits, then you can modify the brake lines/piping to suit. A mechanic I know here in Wollongong also reckons I should get the master cylinder re-sleeved and buy all new brake lines and fluid... I have tried to attach a pic from the net where a guy has done a similar mod, if it doesnt work, go to this link and check it out: http://users.bigpond.net.au/lachlan/cars/k...img/ke25_12.jpg Ill keep you posted on how mine is going.. cheers davros

I did six months of Mechanical Engineering at Wollongong Uni. I wanted to get into engine/car design eventually, but decided that the course I was doing wasn't really all that creative and there was way too much maths and physics - I'm good at maths and physics, but I didnt want to be studying my ass off every 6 months to pass my exams. I ended up switching to Graphic Design and Multimeda, and now run my own graphic design agency...kinda wished I stuck with the Mech Eng though, cause they year that i studied with ended up designing a race car that won the World University Formula SAE title in Detroit a few years back...damn!

thanks jamie, Ill probably look at just changing the front brakes and stud pattern over then, and keep the KE10 springs and struts. Too much messing around to change to complete KE20 front end:) To change the back wheel stud pattern, can I use KE30 axles and have them shortened?

Hey All, Been reading up on rollaclub for a while, but this is my first post... My name is Dave, I am located in Wollongong NSW and have a 1967 KE10. I only recently purchased the car - It has a fairly stock 5k, 5 speed gearbox, Single downdraft Aisan carb (had twin SUs but have taken them off for rebuilding), extractors and a tonne of new bits and pieces that I have replaced. Its a pretty tidy car, and Ill post some flicks soon. I am looking to upgrade my brakes and stud pattern, and have extensively read the FAQ and the forum which has been really helpful. One thing I would like some advice on is putting complete front struts, springs and hubs from a KE30 directly into the KE10. I have read up on the forum about inserting later model struts into the KE10, using a KE10 1" spacer, and also read up about changing to a later model stud pattern and discs. I was wondering if the whole front strut/spring/hub unit from the KE30 will bolt into the KE10, and what effect it may have on steering, camber etc. I am also looking to changing to later model brakes, axles and springs on the back as well. Thanks in advance, and sorry about the epic post...! Davros