Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About 1995Craig

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    NSW Central Coast
  • Interests
    Older cars 60"s to 90's of all kinds
  • Real Name

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi all, Just closing this one out. Finished the job today and turns out the switch panel pulls out really easily with some gentle probing with a slim flexible metal blade [ putty knife ] around the edge until you slip the clips on it. The wiring turned out to be -ve trigger same as the 95 Seca and I found a white multi plug under the dash near the bonnet release that isn't connected to anything which had a nice free permanent power wire so I tapped that & earthed under one of the dash bolts so everything fitted under the dash neatly. One thing I did was tap into the parkers with 1 trigger [ instead of the indicators with 2 triggers ] as the visible warning of operation \ find car option, also left out the LED cause I can't see why you'd have one for this job. All in all very happy again with how easy these old girls are to work with \ on - 'cept I ain't as flexible as I used to be to get under dash \ on floor when needed.
  2. Hi, Me again just wondering how we get to the back of the central locking switch in a 2000 model dash, does it come out of the panel it's in or does the whole small square unit come out to access behind. Looking at doing a remote central lock kit seeing as my alarm went so well. Also wondering if the switch will be like my old '95 and negative trigger? I think that's how to put it because when I test light probed the 2 wires i used on the central lock switch on the '95 Seca as soon as i touched the wire with the probe it activated the central locking or deactivated depending on the wire.
  3. Just to finalise and close this thread out.It's all still going well, working perfectly and easy to operate. Thanks for the help and suggestions fella's.
  4. Hi ke70dave, on further reading \ interpretation of the [chenglish] manual it appears that this is a similar feature which was activated as I was testing functions. After a couple of uses and some more testing it has switched off. Didn't worry me as I often lock the car while traveling anyway :-) So far still working fine and happy with it. Might even get something similar for my youngest's AE 112 sedan now. Regards Craig
  5. Hi guys just a p.s. to this still working okay but without the Ignition fed +ve wire it would not cancel old alarms so the light was flashing all the time telling me it had been attacked. Also you couldn't silent disarm because of the stored event so this arvo I found a switched positive on the wiper motor and hooked it up to test my conclusions and it worked. Old events cancelled and seems all fine, working tonight so more road testing then but when I turn the ignition on the doors now lock, can't find that in the manual but may not worry if nothing else strange happens. Hiro Protagonist can you see on your diagram another ignition switched +ve wire I could use [ in the engine bay ] in case the locking is related to wiper motor wiring please? Any suggestions appreciated Ian. Regards Craig
  6. So just finished the install and everything tests out okay [ in the garage ] so now for the real world tests and see how it holds up in a week or so after our rough roads and some on time in the carpark's etc. ke70dave turns out the hatch switch activates the cabin light so it's on the circuit I tapped [ pax door switch wire ] for the door intrusion wire so bonus one less connection :-) also I left out the ignition switched connection as unless I want to reprogram functions as i'm sure I won't miss that, can always put in later if need be. Wish me luck
  7. Thanks Hiro Protagonist, I got lucky and found 2 old radio removal tools that were just right to slide down front & rear which popped the clips and it almost jumped into my hand. So far working great. Selected units in place: remote central lock via alarm arm, flash of parkers when arming \ disarming, bonnet intrusion switch mounted near rubber bonnet stop & works fine, blue LED mounted in grill of wiper scuttle [ looks cool at night ]. Just the door switch wiring to do now so that's on tomorrow hopefully. Regards Craig
  8. ke70dave & Banjo thanks for the kind words & suggestions fella's. I'm just happy if I get the basics working but if I have any questions look out I'll keep you in mind - moral backup if nothing else - I'm going out to work on it now always remembering K.I.S.S [ basic principle on most of my jobs haha ]
  9. All done it was the alternator no issues since replacement.
  10. That's how I was thinking ke70dave, I'm guessing some euro's have a door positive system with the body computers, luckily I'm the only driver of this old girl and I was gonna leave the immobilizer circuit out. If I want one I'll do an old school hidden cut out switch instead. Hiro Protagonist thanks I may hit you up later if I have any trouble but I was planning on going off the console switch for the central locking BTW how does that come out - just wriggle and lift maybe? - and dome light or door switch for intrusion circuit . Regards Craig
  11. Hi ke70dave Yep thought that may be the case with lots of it [ but trial and error can be fun ] thanks for the hint on the parkers sounds good. Thanks Craig
  12. Hi Banjo, I thought of that but didn't have time or opportunity last night. here they are I have 2 jpeg files and a PDF with both pages which is as close as the " manual" comes to instructions, the rest of it is just how to change settings and options for features of the system. I was just after some general hints \ tips cause I'm not really fussed about it. Would be nice if I can get some features Eg remote locking working but no biggie if not. Son [ 26 yr old ] told me in January it was a joke gift he never expected me to install. Btw that's very similar to the one I have you've found. Regards Craig
  13. Hi all, Just looking for some suggestions \ idea's , maybe some help later. Story goes one of my kids bought me a cheap Ebay [ chinese] car alarm for christmas for my old 95 Corolla Seca and I thought I'd try installing it. Looking for suggestions as to where to connect 1: the indicator flash wire = +ve feed [ somewhere on hazards maybe? ] 2: the door switch wires 1x -ve and \ or 1x +ve and which is our system? 3: ignition fed +ve 4: do you reckon install the siren or just use the car horn it has a -ve feed for horn relay output ? 5: the open \ close wires [ I do have central locking via key ] hopefully all inside engine bay as this is where I have placed the brain module Do you fella's reckon put in the shock sensor or just go with the doors and pin switch for bonnet? Also do you reckon the led light would survive the weather if I mount it say in the grill or wiper scuttle?? Where's a good spot to feed wires into the cabin if needed please? any suggestions\ discussion \ feedback welcome
  14. $90.00, $30 for the seal and $60 for half hour labour so not so bad.
  15. Man that's full history. just got the axle seal replaced see how she goes now. Merry Christmas Hiro
  • Create New...