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1995Craig

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Everything posted by 1995Craig

  1. Hi all, Just closing this one out. Finished the job today and turns out the switch panel pulls out really easily with some gentle probing with a slim flexible metal blade [ putty knife ] around the edge until you slip the clips on it. The wiring turned out to be -ve trigger same as the 95 Seca and I found a white multi plug under the dash near the bonnet release that isn't connected to anything which had a nice free permanent power wire so I tapped that & earthed under one of the dash bolts so everything fitted under the dash neatly. One thing I did was tap into the parkers with 1 trigger [ instead of the indicators with 2 triggers ] as the visible warning of operation \ find car option, also left out the LED cause I can't see why you'd have one for this job. All in all very happy again with how easy these old girls are to work with \ on - 'cept I ain't as flexible as I used to be to get under dash \ on floor when needed.
  2. Hi, Me again just wondering how we get to the back of the central locking switch in a 2000 model dash, does it come out of the panel it's in or does the whole small square unit come out to access behind. Looking at doing a remote central lock kit seeing as my alarm went so well. Also wondering if the switch will be like my old '95 and negative trigger? I think that's how to put it because when I test light probed the 2 wires i used on the central lock switch on the '95 Seca as soon as i touched the wire with the probe it activated the central locking or deactivated depending on the wire.
  3. Just to finalise and close this thread out.It's all still going well, working perfectly and easy to operate. Thanks for the help and suggestions fella's.
  4. Hi ke70dave, on further reading \ interpretation of the [chenglish] manual it appears that this is a similar feature which was activated as I was testing functions. After a couple of uses and some more testing it has switched off. Didn't worry me as I often lock the car while traveling anyway :-) So far still working fine and happy with it. Might even get something similar for my youngest's AE 112 sedan now. Regards Craig
  5. Hi guys just a p.s. to this still working okay but without the Ignition fed +ve wire it would not cancel old alarms so the light was flashing all the time telling me it had been attacked. Also you couldn't silent disarm because of the stored event so this arvo I found a switched positive on the wiper motor and hooked it up to test my conclusions and it worked. Old events cancelled and seems all fine, working tonight so more road testing then but when I turn the ignition on the doors now lock, can't find that in the manual but may not worry if nothing else strange happens. Hiro Protagonist can you see on your diagram another ignition switched +ve wire I could use [ in the engine bay ] in case the locking is related to wiper motor wiring please? Any suggestions appreciated Ian. Regards Craig
  6. So just finished the install and everything tests out okay [ in the garage ] so now for the real world tests and see how it holds up in a week or so after our rough roads and some on time in the carpark's etc. ke70dave turns out the hatch switch activates the cabin light so it's on the circuit I tapped [ pax door switch wire ] for the door intrusion wire so bonus one less connection :-) also I left out the ignition switched connection as unless I want to reprogram functions as i'm sure I won't miss that, can always put in later if need be. Wish me luck
  7. Thanks Hiro Protagonist, I got lucky and found 2 old radio removal tools that were just right to slide down front & rear which popped the clips and it almost jumped into my hand. So far working great. Selected units in place: remote central lock via alarm arm, flash of parkers when arming \ disarming, bonnet intrusion switch mounted near rubber bonnet stop & works fine, blue LED mounted in grill of wiper scuttle [ looks cool at night ]. Just the door switch wiring to do now so that's on tomorrow hopefully. Regards Craig
  8. ke70dave & Banjo thanks for the kind words & suggestions fella's. I'm just happy if I get the basics working but if I have any questions look out I'll keep you in mind - moral backup if nothing else - I'm going out to work on it now always remembering K.I.S.S [ basic principle on most of my jobs haha ]
  9. All done it was the alternator no issues since replacement.
  10. That's how I was thinking ke70dave, I'm guessing some euro's have a door positive system with the body computers, luckily I'm the only driver of this old girl and I was gonna leave the immobilizer circuit out. If I want one I'll do an old school hidden cut out switch instead. Hiro Protagonist thanks I may hit you up later if I have any trouble but I was planning on going off the console switch for the central locking BTW how does that come out - just wriggle and lift maybe? - and dome light or door switch for intrusion circuit . Regards Craig
  11. Hi ke70dave Yep thought that may be the case with lots of it [ but trial and error can be fun ] thanks for the hint on the parkers sounds good. Thanks Craig
  12. Hi Banjo, I thought of that but didn't have time or opportunity last night. here they are I have 2 jpeg files and a PDF with both pages which is as close as the " manual" comes to instructions, the rest of it is just how to change settings and options for features of the system. I was just after some general hints \ tips cause I'm not really fussed about it. Would be nice if I can get some features Eg remote locking working but no biggie if not. Son [ 26 yr old ] told me in January it was a joke gift he never expected me to install. Btw that's very similar to the one I have you've found. Regards Craig
  13. Hi all, Just looking for some suggestions \ idea's , maybe some help later. Story goes one of my kids bought me a cheap Ebay [ chinese] car alarm for christmas for my old 95 Corolla Seca and I thought I'd try installing it. Looking for suggestions as to where to connect 1: the indicator flash wire = +ve feed [ somewhere on hazards maybe? ] 2: the door switch wires 1x -ve and \ or 1x +ve and which is our system? 3: ignition fed +ve 4: do you reckon install the siren or just use the car horn it has a -ve feed for horn relay output ? 5: the open \ close wires [ I do have central locking via key ] hopefully all inside engine bay as this is where I have placed the brain module Do you fella's reckon put in the shock sensor or just go with the doors and pin switch for bonnet? Also do you reckon the led light would survive the weather if I mount it say in the grill or wiper scuttle?? Where's a good spot to feed wires into the cabin if needed please? any suggestions\ discussion \ feedback welcome
  14. $90.00, $30 for the seal and $60 for half hour labour so not so bad.
  15. Man that's full history. just got the axle seal replaced see how she goes now. Merry Christmas Hiro
  16. Yep I'm getting that feeling about this one, everything I've done has been reasonable and I didn't get much history on it. I've had various models before and always been good experiences. Best was the '91 AWD wagon, a Corolla with the stepped roof not a Tercel. Or maybe the '82 sedan with Webber and suspension work.
  17. Bugger, sounds like both of our Rolla's are wearing some bits out. Could be worse but I had an Alfa once now that was expensive to run.
  18. Sounds good Hiro, bugger about having to do both those jobs so close together. I was thinking that might be the case so I'll go ahead with the whole job. At least the mystery is solved and it could have been worse. Thanks again for the help.
  19. Hi all, Many thanks Hiro [ spot on as always] with your info took 5 seconds to find, then a 24mm socket & came out easy followed by a line of red atf type fluid down the side of the casing so the tranny is actually overfull if I understand correctly it should be just under the lip? and it has the wrong fluid in it cause that sure isn't 75w90 gear oil in there. not sure where to go now still thinking about it but that would seem to indicate gearbox leak maybe? BTW bloody thing hardly dropped any fluid at all yesterday . So while I was thinking the wife decided I should have a check done by the workshop that did my clutch -they fitted me in before work and found a leaking seal on the right axle travelling to the bottom of the box and dripping from there. Quoted $120 max to replace so getting done Wednesday. They confirmed the box is full of ATF but think it would be fine as it's been that way since before I got it. What's the concencuss here need changing or leave as is??
  20. Thanks again Hiro, yeah that's why it's got me stumped, I'll get a pic up in the next couple of days of my hose but the P\S reservoir is still showing no loss on the dipstick. I can't tell from the owners manual pic where the gearbox plug is could you point me to it. answer may be a little delayed [ doing all this around the wife kids & christmas stuff]. Amazing thing is aside from the dropped fluid damn thing is still driving like a brand new car no indications of any problem at all & air con is better than the wife's '07 Tuscon in the NSW heatwave.
  21. Hi thanks for the responses, Hiro coolant is green and this is a really light oily fluid I'm nearly sure is hydraulic but can't find the bloody leak and don't have any drop on the dipstick of the power steer tank. How do I check the gearbox \ diff levels in this model please ?? Rebuilder there is a film on a main pipe near the tank which leads over that side but that may be just years of crud keep the suggestions coming I'll keep checking.
  22. yep that's what I thought thanks for the input
  23. Hi, think I know what this is but it's a confusing one. Last few days my AE101 hatch manual has been leaving this fluid under the passenger side front. it is dripping off the bottom of the alloy casing under where the clutch and selector mechanisms are. It looks to me like hydraulic fluid. Clutch and brakes are full and are green coloured anyway. power steering maybe is a little less than full but is hard to say for sure. Could it be gear box oil?? I've had it to a workshop I've used in the past and they found the oil cooler leak I knew about but was leaving cause it wasn't too bad and fixed it and cleaned the bottom of the motor off but 2 days later this is what I get after a 45 minute drive to work. Can't get better shots or a better look at the moment just wondering if anyone has some ideas for me. I'm thinking a leak in the power steering system but can't see where it's coming from.
  24. Just to update fella's, the issue was slowly getting worse and local auto electricians ranged from flat out busy to ridiculously expensive so I grabbed a 2nd hand one from a wrecker [ 3 months warranty] planning on getting mine rebuilt & would then have a spare for the boys 2000 model sedan BUT when I got the old one out it is really noisy with shot bearings and something grating in the back of it [ probably just the worn out brushes] but when you spin it without the belts tension on it really woeful noises ensue so I'll wait till some days off and pull it apart then price new parts but maybe just retire it and get another 2nd hand one if need be, the fella who pulled the part at the wreckers told me the car only had 170000 klm on it so I should get some usage out of it.
  25. Yep sorry missed the r out little rectangular carbon bricks with tail wires but looks like they're in a plastic housing on these alternators right??
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