D.McKiggan
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Posts posted by D.McKiggan
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Thanks MLaser,
As always its time to get the tape measure out and go down to hopefully a wrecker with most of these choices availible to look at. I will hopefully have this choice made in the next few weeks.
We had the hilux shortened by Andrew Cavelli at Velo seats as he does do some mechanical work as well. This looks huge under the KE15 and going over some of the big bumps it does bottom out easily. Looks overkill as it would take around 350-400 hp i would suspect with the size axle's it runs.
With so many choices it's probably the best to go with the Mazda (redwarf option) with the ratios availible and the same PCD for rims being similar to toyota in some models.
Will let all know soon.
Thanks
David
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Thanks scott for the words of the wise.
You don't really know until you get some of these items layed in front of you anyway.
With a VN-Vs is possible to get a good brake caliper system located inside of a 13" rim?? This would be designed around 15".
The reason is due to class rules you cannot increase rim size (maybe +1") away from standard and it all starts getting tight with space.
Also what would be the going rate for a borg warner LSD anyway??
Thanks
David
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Thanks R,
Will look into this option further with a visit to a local mazda wrecker.
Thanks KE25RACER,
Now the T series diff option.... I thought these were hard to get in the LSD and the ratios were not so low? Is there a place where you can source ratios easily?
Please advise if you know. I have the 4.11 celica + 4.9 Trd one now.
It would be good to stay with this as they are quite light.
The cutting down option puts other cost factors in which is what i am trying to avoid.
Thanks for the advise though.
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Hi All,
Just about to start measuring up what to fit in my new car as far as a good diff is concerned. My older car runs a TA22 diff with TRD LSD 4.9 ratio but i would like to build the next one with something heavier duty.
What is the current concensus on this?? I know there is the hilux as we have this in the KE15.
I have heard there is a mazda RX7 version with good ratios / LSD is cheap and has good size axles.
Anyone just been through it all and can suggest the better all round solution? I expect to put about 220Hp through it and would like it down in weight compared to a hilux.
Suggestions ??
Thanks
David
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Appreciate this kind of info isn't common knowledge but does anyone know for sure what the lift and duration are for the 2TG TRD cams (304 and 288 - appreciate that's the duration but you know what I mean)? Failing that, can anyone give me lift and duration for cams with more aggressive profile than the boggo factory items?
From my TRD parts catologue it has the following:
2TG Street / Track intake Cam Pt # 13501-TA051
Power band 3000-7500 rpm
Duration 304 Deg - 10mm lift
2TG Street / Track Exhaust Cam Pt# 13502-TA052
Power Band 4200-8000rpm
Duration 288 Deg - 9.6mm lift.
I have two sets of the above cams and have run them over many engines. Good for a 2ltr engine as long as it can breath with a good porting job. Have yet to try a 304 inlet with 304 exhaust as cams are interchangeable (both 2TG + 18 RG). The book says it is for track only.
Hope this is what you needed.
DMC
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This is the KE15 that my Dad lets me rally drive in. Its his car but we both enjoy the rallying driving in it!
Just some of the features.
Its had K / 3K / 4K & 5K engine in it. (7K sitting in the shed now)
Twin Webers
T50 Gear box
Hilux LSD diff
TRD Valves - small stem Dia.
Ported / polished
Volvo 4 pot ventilated front disk brakes
Lotus A frame rear end.
Yokohama A032R tyres
Too many smaller parts to list but all work towards making this a perfect car in the wet and an great tarmac rally car.
DMC
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Thanks for that ill check it out,haven't got a spare K-T bellhousing have ya.
I'm running 159 Kw and 285 Nm of torque at the moment so it needs to be a good one.
I asked my dad if he had any more in the shed but it was not to be. He said they stem from a model of toyota van / wagon that was imported to Qld that for some reason on the production line they had a short supply gearboxes and needed to keep up with production so they used the T50 box in the short term.
Its one of those things were you searcth the wrecker yards and look at certain models that should have a k series box but you find a T50 in it.
Just got to keep on looking.
DMC
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We run a button ceramic / organic combo similar to the picture. Made by Extreme ctutches in adelaide. The one shown is from my 3T engine but the 5K looks the same but smaller.
Also have the K-T bell housing and use the T50 box in the car. Great match for the 5K and the low ratio gear set we run.
Maybe its more of increasing the spring pressure on your clutch plate. Usually they ask you power and torque and then they make you the correct part for what you are running.
Just a thought.
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The biggest problem with maintaing a good spark is you need excellent earths. Check where the earth strap goes from your block to the body. Make sure it is not bolted to a painted surface. Don't just use the threaded bolt to earth, clear away around the terminal so it bolts to bare metal.
Check where the -ve battery is bolted to the body and make sure all is clean and bolts to bare metal. This might not sound like much but it's where all problems tend to start from. All seems to work but not as good as it could.
Maybe barking up the wrong tree but just a check.
DMC
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From my recolection of coils it's only there as a ballast resistor to keep the correct voltage during operation (i think) dropping to 9v from the 12v supply.
This also ties back to is it a 9V coil you have or a 12V one? If you have changed coils over and added or removed the resistor you would need to check if the coil actually needs one.
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The Piston kit from Wisco is about $750 - $795 i think...
Cams i got at $330 each many years ago from a local TRD shop. Now i think around $700 each. I would think that you could get a wade or crane / or similar cheaper but i don't know about the grind you would ask for.
Block .. cheap
Std crank.
Rods... Now this is where i need to spend the next lot of $$$ as i still use standard. I would expect to get the for $800 set?
Head gasket approx $110
the list goes on
My dad foung a 2TG at a importer that he purchased for $150 with a bottom end knock.
We opened it up and WOW!!!!!
TRD cams / Steel Flywheel / bigger oil pump/ vernier cam gears.
It was like Xmas.
The guy said he was going to toss it on the heap.
Most other smaller parts i tend to make myself. Valve guides / valve shims / porting / manifolds / chain guide wear blocks ect.
Luckily i am a machinist with access to lots of interesting machinery.
I suppose if you added everything up ... you should'nt.
DMC
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I too agree with Old Corolla Bloke... interesting lack of understanding of these engines.
I have developed over the years of racing the following engine combo:
3T block - Bored to 89mm (Ultrasonic tested for core wall thickness- some you just throw away..)
3T crank (crack tested)
TRD 89mm Piston Kit (made by Wisco now anyway)
TRD 304 deg. Exhaust Cams
TRD 288 deg. Inlet Cam
Vernier down hole cam gears.
Double Valve springs
Oversizes intake and Ehaust valve
Ported / matched ported inlet & exaust manifolds
twin webers
All chain guides changed to PTFE material.
Compression at 10.5: 1 (But have run 12:1)
Steel 4kg TRD flywheel
Larger head gaskets are easliy purchased - just expensive.
Results have been 210 Bhp at the flywheel / 150 Rwkw. But ever dyno shop gets a different result.
To sum up these are a great engine when you port them larger and cam them. I have 2 sets of the inlet / exhaust cams and the TRD book says the next combo to try is running both inlet & exhaust at the 304 deg duration. Have not tried this yet but it would be interesting.
I have lots of fun racing with this and have had a good run of realiable engines.
Just my two cents worth..
DMC
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Hi All,
Another small step in the process.
The car is back from blasting the internals out (3 weeks longer than promised!!!). Now ready for the rear ally panels to seal off the top & rear bulkheads from fuel. Just need the rivets to fix into place. Also the brackets for the TA22 fuel tank are to be made to fit in the boot where the old one was residing. Both will be done over the easter break as well as a group sanding effort on the rest of the body.
Another quick job of the seat brackets to be finilised for the set of Velo's to be added when painted.
Hopefully looks like a car once the paint has been done.
The next set of photos will starts to show real progress.
DMC
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how hard was it to fit the 2t into the 20? ive heard there isnt much room..
Hi Retro,
As the KE20 came out in Japan in the Levin spec it had the 2TG as the standard engine. It actually bolts straight in. You might just flatten out a couple of the bumps on the fire wall so you can remove the rocker cover easily and taking the engine and gear box as an assembly you need to gently wiggle it over the steering arms but it all seems to fit in snuggly. I think we ended up using modified engine mounts to move the engine forward about 20 mm to give it more room.
You can see in the photo where the engine mounts are it is slightly off set forward. This way the cross member stays unmodified and you just use the mounts.
Hope this helps. Great engine for this model.
David
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Alex,
Your story is an exact copy of what my Dad and I have gone through with our engine development. He had finished a 5K engne with a Tighe cam in it and on the dyno it lost about 4 of its lobes.
So pull down and rebuild with another replacement cam sent over.
Back to the dyno and again 2 lobes went on this one. My Dad was pulling his hair out as this was 2 weeks before Classic Adealide Rally with this new engine. I took the Cam down to a heat treatment company who checked the surface hardness of the lobes and they were to correct spec compared to a normal cam.
We ended up looking at the lubrication system, the solid lifters , the facing of the followers , the oil type......ect.
Now from all of our R & D and destroying 3 engines of different combinations we have come to the conclusion that it linked back to the running in oil. If you look on the web under Crane cams they will only warrantee their cams if they are run in with a special oil containing Zinc. This is coming from most mineral oils that are produced today (due to the heavy metal content) are taking out the Zinc alloys which are essential in the running in process. Older engines need this Zinc to bed in where as new engines with the new grades of materials don't need this.
You cannot use a synthetic oil or if you do need to run a zinc additive to aid in this bedding in.
As they say oils ain't oils.
Hope yours runs well as we went through hell with ours.
David McK
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Nice corolla you've got there!
How long have you been working on this particular one?
What have you done in the suspension setup on the KE20?
(The pic off the sprinter looks great!)
robj
Hi Rob,
The KE15 has been in the family for over 30 years and was first raced as a series production car in WA. My dad raced and produced plenty of engines over the years and if you saw the parts accumulated in his workshop at home you would be amazed. Has quite a few early TRD engine parts that were around when the 3k was running in the US formula atlatic series. The re-work really started in 2000 to convert from track to rally spec as we needed to make the car realiable for the 1000km of driving not just a 5 lap sprint race. Unfortunatly that first year my driving got a bit to confident on the last day 3 stages before the end (see Pic). As far as suspension goes the rear runs a hilux diff with a lotus A frame + adj koni's.
The KE20 model was the next step up running the 2T engine and when i got my CAMS licenece at 16 i developed up the 3TG for it. It was great as there was a Toyota rally priviteer importing the TRD parts in my local town. I purchased the set of racing cams, pistons, d/valve Springs ect and made the new engine with all the goodies.
As far as suspension the rear is a 5 link inc. panard rod with a TA-22 diff running a locked 4.11 celica diff+ Koni adj shocks, rear adj sway bar + supra disc brakes. It did have a 4.7 TRD LSD but i took the car to the drags one year and blew the diff by lowering my tyre pressures. Did a 14.5 at 105Mph the run before with the back bouncing all over the place and another guy said lower your pressure from 32 to about 15psi. Was going great until 3 into 4th -- BANG!!!.
Front suspension is modified lower control arms, Volvo 4 spots, koni adj shocks, adj camber / caster solid strut towers and a 1" adj sway bar.
Its a great car to drive with the engine over the 200HP and the weight is 840kg's.
Just working out what to do to the new one....
David
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which class do you run in? We were going to put the 2 in the Classic Adelaide but the 5 grand was just too much for us....
We run in the competition class which does attract the highest entry fee but it also has the advantage of open speed limits. The other sections, parade, touring, and new to last year of Regularity all have a max speed in stage of about 130 (i think).Their fees are cheaper and would be a good introduction as the level of safety equipment is less for these sections.
As there is two of you doing the event its really 1/2 fee each and if you look at what you might spend doing other events over a year it does work out good value for the 350km of closed road sections. These events are just starting to grow due to older drivers wanting still to compete but on a once a year / social level. The roads you get to drive on are fantastic and the organisation of it is great.
If you would like a copy of the event overview i can send you a copy as it has all the interesting facts. We first entered in 2000 and there has only ever been another TA22 celica compete so its been very Toyota sparce.
Go on .. you only live once..
David
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Am i right in saying you had a uprighted K series in the sprinter? What is the process in getting a car log booked, does it just have to be the shell or do you have to have the cage and other safety aspecs complete?
So are you just using this new shell and all the parts from the last Ke20?
Goodluck
Sean
Hi Sean,
The uprighting of the engine with modified engine mounts makes it easier for the twin webers and the exhaust system. The only other mod is a slight mod of the gearbox hole and to bend the gear stick slightly so it does not hit your legs. We run the celica T50 box with a set of TRD lower ratio's which gives the car excellent off the line acceleration. The diff has been changed over to a hi-lux LSD (wont be breaking that one!!) and it runs a 5K motor with numerous internal mods. My dad is the expert in these K series motors as he has raced them most of his life. From K , 3K, 4K , 5K and now he has just finished his own fuel injection system for a 7K he is putting into another KE15 body (he has 3 in total).
My engine expeirence and shed full of parts links back to the 2T - 3T , 3TG engine due to the ke 20 i race.
Getting a car log booked is as simple as filling out a CAMS application form but...... once you race the car it needs to be inspected to the level of competition you are going to compete at. For Classic we run in Comp so it needs a full cage, seats, using racing suits ect. If you were to do a circuit sprint you can do this without certain certification. As soon as it involves CAMS it always starts to become technically difficult!!
Our KE15 was used in racing 20 years ago so it has a log book that goes back awhile.
If the KE20 is not ready we will run the 15 again. I hope to start afresh with parts but can always unbolt certain parts of my old car. Only time will tell which path i will take.
Will post the tranformation as it happens.
David
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Hi All,
Just thought i would inroduce myself and my project for the year.
Just updating my KE20 to a better body and make it in line with the rules for Classic Adelaide & Improved Production Racing.
My Dad and I have done the classic 5 times in a 1969 KE15 sprinter and it was time to change up to the 2ltr 3TG option.
The car is getting a blasting internally at present and then the paintwork can start. It has already been issued with a CAMS log book so i can
compete in the IPRASA rounds as well.
Will keep some updates coming when things look more complete.
DMC
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This looks like a fun car to go for a drive in.
Where are you going to get the flare kit from??
I am looking for a supplier who sells the bolt on kits for the KE20.
Keep on Building.... It gets faster from this stage on!!
3t-g Help Needed!!!!!!!!!
in KExx Corolla Discussion
Posted
Hi phatke30,
This should not happen after you have run the engine hot and checked the timing of the cams to make sure all is where they should be. The only way that the chain makes a noise is when the chain tensioner that is fed from the oil pressure side is not coming out enough and the slack rattles about. The book says to wind the locking nut up so that you it is tight when the engine is not running and then back it of so you have avout .5mm free play.
Maybe you need to service the tensioner? Could be a blockage causing it not to extend out.
The chain guides i ended up bolting on some PTFE blocks where the worn away sections were to replace these and it helps with the friction as well.
Let me know as i have a couple of spare sets of cam wheels if you need them replaced.
David