Pete-ke20

Hi, What teddy said is true, i no longer own the car, however i'm sure i can try to answer some questions if you had some. Sold it over a year ago now so my memory may not be the best, but i did do all the work on it so I'm sure i can remember most of the stuff about it.

Quick update. Few pics of car at the moment. Have hung the drivers door and fitted latches etc.

Hi all, Just an update letting you all know that i still have this up for sale, need the money badly for other things. Would like about 5000 for it as is but open to offers. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=20665 is the link Will continue to work on this slowly but really need the money for other things. Will hopefully finish the interior reassembly tomorrow.

Hi all, I have done a quick search which yielded no results. As many would know i have put a 4g93t engine into my ke20, i know that this engine is a legal conversion. My question concerns my brake mods. I have upgraded the front brakes to GSR lancer brakes, i have not modified the calipers, or struts, i have however made new mounting brakes, these are made to the original thickness of the ke20 ones where they mount to the strut and are the same thickness as the GSR bracket where the caliper mounts. They are very strong and rather overkill but they are the brakes so i wasnt gonna skimp. The rotors mount the same as the original ke20 ones, only are thicker and larger DIA. i have also Added a brake booster and larger master cylinder. Are these modifications able to be approved by a person whom is able to issue a mod plate or do i have to apply for this mod via qld transport? I also would like to know what emission control measures i have to put in. Will be running a CAT and plumb back PCV, have left out the charcol canister as the tank is not suited for it. Would this be sufficient? I plan to ask a guy whom is able to issue mod plates about this but any help in the mean time would be awesome. Cheers Pete

speedo, i can't remem the size but it fit perfectly where the original was, only i can't put the glass in as i wont be able to push the trip button:( 2 3/4 inch i think Ah now i have an update, i have done a little, bit of fiddling, and not seen in the photos is, the accelerator cable mount, the pod filter adaptor, and to be added soon is the inlet plumbing, getting some bits welded up tomorrow. As far as progress goes, i have mostly been lazy and what you see in the pics has been completed for a while, just havnt taken any, most of my time has been taken up by fidely things like, coil mounts (rear of plenum), accelerator cable mount (not pictured) adjustable accelerator cable hammer thingo, air reducer, to take the 1.5" outlet of the turbo up to the 2.5" inlet plumbing (being welded into mandrel bend tomorrow, all stainless). Improved the CAS drive mechanism, made a seal for the CAS to prevent dirt etc from getting in the sensors. All that i have left to do now for the engine side of the project to be complete is the inlet plumbing and the exhaust system. I still have the interior to put together, and i would still like to get the body professionally done, or at least the drivers door, guard and bonnet tended to but a panel beater, the other dents and things on the car are hard to pick, and would be impossible to remove, old sheet metal.

Pretty sure your 200kw 4g63t engine wont blow a powerglide, i have seen them behind 9second street cars nw, i have a mate who does high performance rebuilds for a living on autos, he is the only guy in a australia to be doing high performance rebuilds on the VE boxes at the moment, well he was. Thats doesnt bother me as I'm going a 5speed anyways. I have just used an electric aftermarket VDO speedo, so i can just reset the speed easy as. The diff is easy for me, i may as well be a mechanic, my old man is any ways, but I'm a fitter and turner by trade with access to lathes and mills that could turn a whole rear end around it axis. I have already gone for a 15inch rim with 195 50 tyres, which i recon is the best sidewall for looks anything less just looks ricey i recon, I will also be going to for front coil overs also, once i have done the project but, i wanna get this running first and formost, i will just get a second set of struts and modify them, again i can do it all easy, and as far as welding goes, i work with boilermakers than can weld coke cans together, and weld pipes that contain 6000psi + of liquid ammonia day in and day out. So my diff housing should come out nice n straight not to mention strong. I will try to get some pics if i have the car in the air during the week, might have it up tomorrow as i have a day of. Mate for mounts just go find a triton ute with a 4g64 engine those mounts will bolt right up to your block and will sit the engine near perfect in your engine bay, with some ford cortina rubber under it

Sounds like a good little car there mate, I'm in QLD, i might have to car up on a hoist this weekend if thats the case then ill get a pic for you mate. Thats alot of good work on the brakes etc, i think myne will work sufficiently but, well i hope, the 250mm rotors with single pot's should pull up the 800 kg of car no worries. I'm still not sure on my rear end yet, thinking pintara, as its the same as my front pcd, and i like the range of ratios avail. i will wait till i have my car on the road before i go to getting the new rear end done, as ill do it myself. Thats a lot of torque you putting through that auto, hope it holds up for ya, specially with a 3g stallie. should just go the full drag package with a 2speed powerglide

??? K frame ke20's don't have one of them just a cross member. i think you are referring to the sway bar perhaps?? not sure as i didnt remove anything from my car to make it fit, i did modify my sway bar but i don't think the ke15's have them... Just a side note what state are you in? which gearbox you using and what rear end?? hope this helps champ

do you have any pics of you parcel self?? if so that would be good to see

Hi all. I have a ke20 which has a ke30 diff in it i am fair sure. The car has 114.3 pcd all around and its a 73 ke20. Now my question is how much work would be involved with putting that ke30 diff in, like what would the person had to of modify to get it in there and also, what other kexx diff's could fit. Another question is rear swaybars, has anyone ever fitted one to a ke20 and how so if you did. Thanks for any help!

OK i have had a little look today to work out what else i need for this project. I need a rear parcel shelf, i am wondering if any one has had much luck with making custom shelves for these or not? Given that the seat belts mount up there and the curve up in the back of it. this is about the only part i need to manufacture/find before i can finish off the interior. Oh i am also in need of a dash pad, as mine is terrible condition, might just vinyl wrap it for now, but would like a good one if possible, if anyone has any good ideas please let me know!!!

okay, so its been a week or two since my last update on the beast, in the past while i havnt had much of a chance to do many major things to the car, but i have had some spare time at work to make a few little bits and pieces. I have improved my CAS drive set-up, as the set-up i had didnt run tru and was bad. The system was basically a 17mm socket running off of the cam bolt, that was held to the trianlgular CAS bolt/captive nut thingo, with three grub screws but it had to adjust them to with-in the 1thou kinds range i would like it to be. So i turned the trialgular bit down the be round and then pressed fit a piece of 1/2'' square bar over it, which fits perfectly up the end of a 1/2'' drive 17mm socket funnily enough, i then had the shorten the socket a little, which the lather made light work of. I then glued the socket to the base of the drive mech so it didnt fall out during install. I also had the chance to turn up a seal for where the CAS mounts to the timing belt cover mount i made, previously there was a .5mm gap the way around where water and dirt could get in, bad as seeing there are magnets and shit in there. So i got a bit of teflon, as i had heaps lying round, and made it an interference fit into the CAS unit and then bigger around the sealing face so i could seal, while teflon is not the best to use for a seal, it will be adequit as the CAS does not move and crushes against it once installed I have also relocated my coil mount from the front of the plenum, which now has a throttle body in the way, to the rear, unfotunatly i will need two new ignition leads as two were too short to reach only by a few mm too :( and i don't like stretching the f**k out of them. i think i have some pics of my CAS (Crank angle sensor) drive thing i made. All i have to do now is interior and the inlet and exhaust plumbing + shorten my accel cable!! Sorry about shit quality pics my phone lense was dirty

Run slow, explain that one please? I have decided that i'm gonna continue unless i get an offer for the project, so i am now in need of a drivers side guard, if any one can help that would be awesome, would like a straight one no rust or dents if possible

Because i want to do it right, and i wont cost much to get it right, only i don't have that money, or time at the moment. The project is great and not much left to do on it, i just need to money is all.

I know, i want to continue it, and will do if i can find a panel beater to do my drivers door and bonnet on the cheap and some front guards one the cheap (new ones). Really want to get whole car done pro by panel beater but money is the issue. I'm so close now too with the engine etc, only gotta plumb up inlet/turbo system, before i can drive it.

Hi everybody, havnt had much opportunitie to do much more work on the rolla yet, and its come to the crunch my old man needs the room back at his workshop i've been occupying for a fair time, i want to continue this project but finding it hard with time etc, So I'm putting up an EOI for it, i'm nearly done all the engine work its just the body work and time that is still needed for it, i don't have the skill nor the time / money for it at the moment. So if anyone was interested in the project thats nearly done give us a pm, in saying this I'm still gonna try to soldier on, i want to finish this only money, time and space are the issues at the moment, non of which will be solved anytime quickly.

Jeez, i do have work during the week. So no sorry no more progress or pictures, will get to work this weekend, just gotta plumb my air system, managed to get the inlet mani back on during the week, after its cut and shut, and machined a inlet for the front of the throttle body, also machined a AFM to turbo adapter, as AFM is 3" and turbo inlet is about 1.5" Will update as more happens, sorry guys I'm slow!

....I would have if it were hydro but thats the beauty of the box i chose its cable!

Dirty Dirty man! haha i just don't like having to work to get inside the box. PieMan. I didnt have to modify my pedal box, all i did was die grind the hole in my firewall larger for the throat of the booster to fit then drilled the 4 holes for its studs, on the pedal box side i only had to cut the insulatin shit outta the way and then get the nuts and washers on, i had to lightly grind the side of the pedal box in one spot as my drilling wasnt tooo square, and down the center i had to take about 1mm off each side for the rubber boot to fit over. The booster bolts mount to the pedal box eliminating most of the force on the firewall when breaks applied. Pic may be a bit of a mission, will give it a go today but

Yeh i read you Astron/ saturn thread. i don't know much about these serious of engines but as they are the Aussie type bellhousing and stuff as far as i know, which makes g/box selection limited for strength etc. The only MAJOR issue i had with my conversion (so far, however engine is in and car drives just tinkering now) is that because the 4g9x block is a little different to that of the sigma blocks (sigma g/box) my throwout bearing would not hit the preasure plate, but that was easy fixed with a bit of stainless and 5 min on the lathe. If you want to go in a certain direction than i say go it, don't let anyone else tell you what to do. Be outside the box!

Amended :)

why wouldnt you go ca18det instead? Because i can

Yeh i have a pic of em in this thread..... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...mp;#entry249698 The Part No. is A1200 forget brand but they are common

mate try ford cortina mounts, they worked well for me when i put my 4g93t in me ke20, i think the part no. is kt1200 not sure but. they are the round ones you want go to rip off or coventry and ask to look in there mounts book you will see the ones i mean! hope this helps

Nah the wheels are 15x6 with a 23p offset all round, they only just poke out of the guards like 1/8" if that with 195/50's on em. The rear end is a jap one, banjo type, from memory. You making me think now. The front struts, have the square caliper mount pattern, i know i had a spare set that were in the boot when i got the car that had the holes all slightly offset to another and i originaly used these to draw my caliper mounts up coz they were easy to measure as not on car but i found out that the struts were different before making them thankfully!. If you can give me some tips on what to look at to tell what they are and the rear end then ill check em out and measure etc to let you all know! Ke26 Wagon, Thanks mate i only wrote this up quick i prob left heaps and heaps of info out, i also got lazy with the camera as i mostly had dirty hand while working on it and was a new phone then so i didnt wanna dirty it. I'll get a few pics of the underneath and where the box mounts and stick lines up with floor if any one is interested. The engine bay is an absolute mess atm, in the process of hiding my injector wiring and putting in inlet mani and putting throttle body on reverse end, and no time to do it all... 3 long weekend in an row for me coming up so i should get heaps done!! Love my RDO's and public holidays!