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roids70

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Everything posted by roids70

  1. i think it might have had wax pellet at one stage but now broken, the only thing i got there on the side of the throttle body is the throttle positioning sensor u nless that does the same thing? the oxy sensor is pretty much brand new, i have the error code come up on me a ahile back when it was n/a so i bought a new oxy sensor
  2. the ecu has been reset many times mainly cause i've had the ecu out a few timesand the battery out. i knew the idle controll is working perfectly cause i have to steer quite excessivly to get out of home lol its a bit of a challenge. what you mean by wax pellet? and how can you tell an ecu has a closed loop at lower RPM?
  3. the thing is though it wasn't hitting fuel cut i could of hit limiter befor it hit fuel cut. witch is what I'm really puzzled about because you've explained that it should hit fuel cut. which now after doing some research i understand it better and i myself beleive it should have it fuel cut. one stage as i was driving it was at about 6,500rpm and it wanted to keep going but i decided to change gears. it was only when i took off from a still position that it died a few times, one thing i do know for sure is the oxysensor on the 3sge and gte are only being used when cruising to help with fuel economy and anothing thing i do know is that when cruising my timing gets advanced out to 30 degrees and on load it goes back to 12 - 15 and at idle its about 8-10 advanced, now apparently 30 degrees is not good for me??? just what i've been told, i did know about the tension of a AFM i read it on some supra site and was interested in doing it but i would rather have a spare AFM first and try it, and i also have 550cc denzo's ready to put in the car when i was gunna get an aftermarket ecu
  4. yeah if you see in the vid i posted, as i took off when i left the last corner it pretty much died a couple of times befor it actually took off properly, but yeah like i said befor it hit 10 psi without any problem, didn't cough didnt die, just took off, I'm going to try and get another vid so i can show people its hitting 10 without a problem, i will also be looking at getting a 165 gte ecu depending on price as they are hard to come by since they are imports to aus, i have got one i can get from switzerland but i think I'm going to need wireing, boost pressure switch, knock sensor, and AFM, and possibly a few other things depending on what the gt4 has that i don't have, so it could cost a lot, and I'm not one for alot of money hence y i don't have an aftermarket ecu cause i clearly can't afford it.
  5. eyah but it wasn't doing it on boost,, I'm hoping thats what you mean, it was missing while trying to take off at low rpm witch it didn't do till i was taking it back in, 4 times i hit boost it hit boost haply at 10psi and it held it like it was capable of taking boost, i could be wrong but i would expect the rising rate fuel reg to stop that, could be wrong, not to good with engine electrics and stuff like that
  6. so are you saying its cutting the fuel from the engine when its lean or am i not understanding it very well
  7. http://www.youtube.com/user/tom210gx#p/a/u/0/fz4h7209ejY hit 10 psi again today, car started to cough and splutter a bit, not sure if it was due to the AFM plug half hanging off or it just hates life now and wants to blow up but enjoy
  8. BIG UPDATE..............UPDATE.................UPDATE the car is boosting, hit 7psi today, still running on stock ecu, didn't really give it much of a go but it still pulls really hard, on another note there are still things that need to be done, but will get to them eventually, in tghe mean time, it goes it boost, and i dare say it may be the only 1st gen 5sgte Cheers Sean
  9. got my air/fuel ratio guage yeasterday. its one of the new smokey stepper gauges, did have photos but can't get them up atm, they are a little wanky as they have an opening and closing ceremony here is the opening here is the closing mine shut down slightly different mine go like these ones they say stepper gauges are more acurate purely because evertime they start up they are calebrating themselves
  10. force induction seems to be the go lol
  11. yeah i would say none lol since most of them seem to be skylines and 180's and so on
  12. lol, seems to be an every day thing turboing a toyota out the back of CAI :P
  13. lol so its you i've been yelling at :abuse: lol, nah wouldn't notice to be honest cause there is that many turbo cars that drive past its not funny
  14. ah yes that was the other thing, hadn't got that far with figuring that out but you answered it for me, so now i will go back to my first plan of 5s pistons with lower compression
  15. The reason I went to 5sge was because 3sge arnt very available here in tassie. And if a wrecker has one they want a fortune for it. I did some research of my own about3 years ago. And back then I could not find onething on the Internet about doing a 5sge build untill I found a bloke in Europe that had done one. So over here I could pick up 5sfe bottom ends for 100 bucks so I went for it. And got it right first go. Ran like a dream apart from an exhaust leak but I think it went. Much better than the 3sge. And to be honest I think it's better and cheaper doing it my way. Were as you gotta spend shut loads of money for the bottom end if you put a 5s crank in a 3s block. Way too much hassle. Tithe reason I still have a 1 gen head is cause I still had my standard computer to contend with. And I didn't have the money at the time so for now I've just stuck with it. I am planing on building another 5s bottom end with new rods and .040 oversized 3sgte forgoes witch are 87mm witch is the size of the 5s bore so I've got everything planned what I'm doing. But for now I'm just sticking with the motor I got. Get it running. See how it goes if it goes well cool. If it blows meh gotta build a new one. Yeah twin scroll is the goods. I couldn't find any single entry turbos or manifolds anywere so I just went for the twin. Got it and a manifold for swapsies of one of my side entry manifolds. Turbo was f@$ked so hence y I got a brand new core for it. And the new core only cost 249 bucks
  16. all my fittings and lines i got for mates rates got the intercooler mounted in the spot i wanted and mounted in two poins. just need to do one more mount. got my oil filter kit it is the goods just got my new fuel reg kit, got the car running with it on now just organising piping and getting the exhaust connected there really isn't much room in there at all
  17. hey guys been a very long time since i've been on here, quite possibly about 3 years i would say, over the time i have got myself another ride, picked up an 88 st162 celica with a bung engine, to make things more simple for me I'm going to coppy and paste from another forum. Once apon a time i bought a 162 celica for $850 Aus and knowing the history of this car i knew what was ahead, after getting it towed home and a couple of days latter when i had the time i hooked straight into getting the monstrosity apart (First fwd motor i've ever worked one) getting it out was the hard part :mad: plenty of punching things (not the car), anyway got the motor out and i stripped it back to just a block, took the sump off and to come accross no.1 bearing located everywhere in the sump, and not where it should be, after undo ing the rod i pulled it out then pulled the rings of to find that pistons come in 2 peices, well in this motor anyway also on further inspection i also came accross a nice crack running down the bore of the cylinder, after finding and building a new motor running it in, everything working great after about 1,200 km's i have traveled it decides to spin not only a bearing but throw out the thrust bearings as well, i replaced everything hoping it didn't cause much damage, but it threw another bearing 44km's later. thus resulting in i long period of time off the road! having trouble finding a replacement motor was indeed stressing me out. so i read up on a few sites about doign a 2.2l conversion, sussing it all out i decided to try it out finding a 93 toyota camry that had been in an accident, getting the motor out of that and just using the bottom end and selling the other stuff, Success!!!! i found one and started my work fecked motor on stand and 5sfe on the ground 5sfe on the stand the choice between injectors 3sge on top and 5sfe on bottow ( i went with the 3sge ones head on belt on, all looking good brilliant!!!!!!! it all together :laff: in the proccess you need to change everything over from the 3sge to the 5s block even crank pully for timing belt, harmonic ballencer, all brakets overthing i say!! :twisted: also used the 3sge flywheel and clutch cause 5sfe is an 8 bolt crank not 6 like the 3sfe putting the motor in was a breeze nothing too it just like normal but then comes the tricky part, since it is a 5sfe it also has ballencer shafts in the crank case you can chose to remove them and put a 3sge sump on but they are there for a reason so good to leave them there, the one thing with the sump being lower you must extend the exhaust once that is done your all set to rip skids everywhere, nah not really but you will be loving the result that such an engine can produce a great nice amount of torqe at bottom end and nice top end pull. here are a bunch of picks of my car somewhere on our latest cruise for Oz Celica a while back now i am the white blob up front lol i is very much faster cause i knew the roads better me playing with a 25 sparklers at once BWAHAHAHA these are just some photos of my 5sge build as you can see a 5sfe bottom end with a brand spanker water pump, and another photo i did not take was a brand new 185 gt4 oil pump i put on 5sfe metal headgasket this was a teaser a while back now her is my turbo all fixed, got a brand new core off ebay, was actually really cheap these images are from the weekend just passed TTTTTTUUUUUUUUURRRRRRRRBBBBBBOOOOOOOZZZZZZZZZ!!! first time attached to the engine not much room in there i say Dump pipe fitted another shot, but this time with the air con unit back in how close the clutch line is to the fron housing the space were the filter should go, unfortunatly not enough room to put it back on, so filter relocator kit is needed and how much i had to bend the dip stick so it wasnt touching the dump pipe
  18. id like to say this is a long times since i've posted but, well sone si looks like it is comin along very well
  19. i have been a bit lazy the past few days but am still making very slow progress with the body work
  20. yep thats it they deal with all 2tc and 3tc parts, but yeah as you have stated they are coming from the states
  21. lol at you dan you love em now cause mines in your shed lol but go the adjustable panhard rad they are good but I'm using a whitline one not a home made one
  22. finally got my list of engine parts organised but they due to expenses it will take me a while to get these parts lightened flywheel custom pressure plate custom clutch BRD racing pistons compression of 13.8:1 rods CT-1 coted bearings ARP head stud Kit ARP main stud kit ARP carnkshaft pully bolt ARP clutch bolts ARP Flywheel bolts stronger lifters full balanced rocker assemblie: Comes With Rockers, Collers, Stands, and Micro-Polished Shafts. hardened pushrods double valve springs Bronze valve guides BRD Custom Titanium Valves High Volume oil pump steal sump with double kickout Windage tray BRD racing timing Gear drive 2 peice timing cover side draft manifold, new webbers, also a 4 barrel holly intake manifold Schoenfeld Header EGR Plugs High Performance water pump racing alternator spark plug bar Fuel Pump block off plate Lightened crank pully lightened water pump pully also getting the biggest cam i can get then getting it reground for longer durationg and I'm also trying to sorced a 3' wide gilmer drive setup for the t motor, all these parts come to a hefty price but it doesn't worry me as I'm buying good stuff at all comes to $6,330 and will be building the motor up over time
  23. ah k my bad, nah it was 1. Oil leaks 2. Not complying to emission controll witch they corrected 3. passenger door not hinging properly 4. bald tyres 5. frayed seatbelts
  24. huh? stearing and sus is all good apart from my cut springs lol, but i am re doing the whol car from scratch so new suspentions and all new motor well i fully re built one with all the good bits, atm i've only started on the back right corner, trying just o pump the guards out a little by elimninating the flat lip on it, but here some more pics of todays progress
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