GBKE15

It's finally done!!! I spoke with the exhaust shop today and they managed to get a flange made to bolt to the exhaust manifold. I did run it straight thru 1 3/4 in pipe over the crossmember and out the back. I am going to install the supertrapp so that I can adjust the BP and sound. If it doesn't do what I want I will change to the turbo muffler per MIKEY's advice. Hopefully I will be running by next weekend. Thanks for all of the help guys. I am looking forward to firing this thing up and getting out on the track.:D :( Glenn

I'd like to keep the $$$ reasonable. Although it is kinda hard to justify spending $500 on a $300 car, but that's beside the point. It has been hard enough to find someone to build a very simple flange so I haven't gone the route of a custom extractor yet. I may have finally found someone who knows what they are doing. We'll see tomorrow. Thanks, Glenn

Here's the latest, I have called several muffler shops and no one can make the flange that bolts to the exhasut header for the dual outlet manifold. I could take the single and probably get it done. I don't know what year the motor is so tracking down an intermediate pipe is where I am having trouble. The rest of the system is easy. I want to run a straight 1 3/4 pipe with no resonator to a supertrapp muffler at the end of the pipe. This is not a daily driver and as long as it's not louder than death it will suffice and I will be able to tune the bp and noise to a certain extent. Here's the big questions: 1. Is there a header that will fit a ke15 with a 3k, I have googled and sent a message to Mikey's guy that he posted with no responce. 2. Is there a significant difference if I go to the single exhaust manifold that was on the k motor? 3. Do you guys agree with the setup that I want to run? Thanks, Glenn

I took my KE15 to the muffler shop today and apparantly they are not able to/don't want to make an intermediate pipe for my car. I have the 3k installed and ready to go except for exhaust. I have emailed the guy that Mikey suggested here in the states in regards to the extractors that he had but have not heard back yet. I may need to swap the exhaust manifold from the k-c to the 3kc for the fact that the 3k currently has a dual port exhaust and the k is a small looking manifold with a single port which will be much easier to make a down pipe for. If I cannot find an extractor, is there going to be any major difference in the performance of the 3k with the k exhaust manifold?? I need this car on the road and running sooner than later. Many thanks, Glenn

Update: All is well with the swap, just need to get an exhasut hooked up for the final word. Thanks for all of your help guys!! Glenn One step closer! :jamie:

Thanks for the suggestion Mikey. When I tried to see how much adjustment I needed It wasn't even close. This may not be the best solution, but I drilled the K pressure plate and fit it to the 3k flywheel. Everything is bolted back together now so we'll see how it goes. The fingers for the 3k pressure plate were closer to the flywheel by almost a 1/4 of an inch so I don't think that I would've been able to get it there. With everything bolted up I could move the clutch fork all the way thru it's motion with no resistance at all. Now if I could just get the top bolt on the starter bolted back up I would be good to go. Next question, does anyone know if the exhaust manifold plate at the down tube for the exhaust pipe is the same for any other car. I don't know what year the engine is from and I need to make an exhaust. I was thinking of pulling the down pipe off a car at the junkyard and running a straight pipe to a supertrap muffler. If there is another exhaust manifold that is close, I can just weld the pipe myself and by generic tube to fit. The 20r and 22r exhaust manifold looks close to the same shape. Thanks again for the assistance in this. I am trying not to be a pain in the @#$ and not lose patience with this. Glenn

PLEASE HELP. I am still fighting this swap. There is a little more to it than I thought there would be. With all of the info out there, I thought this was bolt up. Now that I have had the 3k flywheel turned. The 3k pressure plate is 1/4 inch too short and will not disengage the clutch. What the ____ do I do now. THe k pressure plate has two studs and the 3k has 3 studs on the flywheel. Can I just drill the k pressure plate to fit the 3k flywheel. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I would liek to get this back together today. Thanks in advance. Glenn :lolcry: :( :( :(

Yeh, that's calle da steering stabilizer. It's used to "soften/slow" the bumpsteer that you get on SUV's and trucks. Never seen one with a coil on it though. Most of the time they put two on instead of one. Glenn

I'm just glad to see the engine spinning again. I have never driven the car so it'll be hard to notice a difference in the flywheel, but looking forward to it just the same. g

Flywheel is done already!! Guy took almost 5 lbs. off and it looks nice. Ready to go. The new clutch should be here Friday so we'll see. :D

Dropped the flywheel off this morning. Should get it back tomorrow. So I'm okay then to use the 3k flywheel and pressure plate with the k clutch plate then, right? I'll be glad when this is all done. :D

(rough pics follow but adequate description hopefully) The flywheel on the k motor was shaped like this: """| |_ | | | | | _| | ,,,,,| The one on th 3k was likethis """| |_ |_ | | | _| _| | ,,,,,| I'll try to get some pics up sometime, for now I am planning on getting the flywheel off to the machinist and geting the 3k flywheel taken care of and then getting it all back together. The clutch on the k was completely shot so I have very little to go on. Is there any difference in thickness on the k and 3k clutch. I am planning on using the 3k flywheel and clutch plate and k clutch (16 splines)? Thanks, G

Thanks Jamie. I will have to use the 3k flywheel though. Sourceing a 4k flywheel for me ,at least, is probably next to impossible. I have been to all of the wreckers near me and haven't seen one yet. I'm in the States and anything old enough to have goodies that I can use has been crushed for sure. Yes on the balanced deal. It looks like it is going to run around $125 us to have t done, just wanted to make sure that it is worth it. Thanks, G

UPDATE: Okay, so I pulled the flywheel and everything is good now the 3k flywheel and the k flywheel are definitely different. I have a new clutch coming and the flywheel is going to be turned. Now I have another question. Since the flywheel has to be turned, should I have it lightened as well? Is the difference between a lightened flywheel and a standard flywheel that much different and is it worth it on a basically stock 3k?? If so, what weight should I try to get it to? Thanks for all the help on this topic. The progress has been going well here lately and I should have some pics up soon. I got the rx7 wheels done up and they are strong looking, painted met. silver then polished the outer lip and cleared them and filled the mazda logo in. I filled the holes for the chrome trim on the sides and hope to have the bonnet rust and rust at the bottom of the doors fixed up soon. Back on track and things are going nicely..... :jamie: Glenn

That's the next step. Later this weekend maybe, I'll pull the flywheel and try to see if it turns and then check the teeth on the clutch that I installed and see what happens. I bet I'll have to go with a new clutch and get the old flywheel resurfaced. I hope that will fix the problem. G

UPDATE:: Last night I got home and after being frustrated all day I went to the garage to see what I could come up with. Here's the jist: *All the spark plugs are removed. *Jacked up the rear and put the car in 4th and spun the tires. Open diff so the tire just spun no rotation on the ds went to driver's side and same thing. *lowered car down and while in gear pushed car forward, there was a strange clicking sound like something not fully engaging on trans to engine. *pulled tranny out and tried to spin the crankshaft, nothing doing still. I think that I remember why I swapped flywheels to begin with now, the one that was on the 3k was slightly pitted and the one on the k was much nicer looking. I am thinking that there must be more differences between the two flywheels, so my next step is to pull the clutch/pp/flywheel and try to spin the crank. I will check the tooth pattern on the clutch disc to see what's up. Unfortunately, I don't know what year this motor is. This motor was supposed to be in rebuilt running order and I got it from a tech at the Toyota dealership that I work for, so I can't see the motor being farked. If the 3k-c motor doesn't work with me, the K-c motor is going back in and I will dream a little longer of the new motor and Jamie suggests in one of the threads that I read. The fuel pump was attached to the 3k motor so that wasn't changed. Thanks all, G

After I try the other things and before I pull the tranny, is there anything that would tell me that the clutch is backwards. ie clutch feel or tension or anything?

I am guessing that would be a bad thing. I will try the other suggestions and then tear it back down again to assess the clutch. I'm hoping I'll find it before it gets to that. Thanks for all the help. This toy better be worth the effort!!

Here's a thought.. The old clutch was toast and I used the clutch that came with the 3k. Is it possible that the clutch is adjusted too far out and binding up the engine?? G

That's what I was hoping. The swap is too simple for even me to screw up. The only thing scaring me is the fact that the crank bolt won't turn. I'm thinking I may have to spend some time in the garage tonight and try to get it going. I was hping to have it at the muffler shop next week and then order the parts for the brake swap and the suspension next the hit the races and now.................

That was the reason. I knew it was something. I will try to swap the starters to see if that is it. The tranny was in neutral, but wouldn't it have lunged forward if in gear? I was just saying the other night how things were going fairly well considering how much time I had actually spent on it. It figures. :harhar: Thanks Jamie. Glenn

I finally got around to trying to see if all was well on my swap and now the motor wont spin over. I know there is probably more info that anyone willing to shed light may need but here's what I can think of. k to 3k swap 3k was rebuilt about 3000 miles ago. had to swap flywheel and clutch pressure plate from k as the bolts didn't line up with that of the 3k ( I think, it's been a few weeks) I remember swapping them, can't remember exactly why I had to. Bolted up the t4 trans (factory 4spd ke15 tranny) I bumped the starter with the coil wire off, no exhaust and didn't want to run straight off of the manifold. starter engaged but didn't want to turn. removed starter and it engaged properly so starter seems fine. I put a wrench on the crank clockwise from front looking at motor and it will not turn at all. I really don't think that I did anything swapping the flywheel over but wanted some suggestions before I pulled the tranny back off again. The motor was spinning freely before I put it in. This is probably rooted in the flywheel, but nothing seemed to be out of place when I did it. Are they supposed to be different from the k-3k. If I swapped the bolts and everything would they have been different lengths? Any help is appreciated. This kinda threw me for a loop. Glenn

What's up guys? I have checked the faq's and know what I need to do the disc conversion on my ke15, but I cannot seem to source the ke20 hubs anywhere. I am in the US and it seems that the older corollas haven't been recongnized like the newer ones and parts are not very easy to come by. Does anyone have a part number/manu of the right hub out there? Or I could look it up the the Toyota microfiche at my dealership but I need a complete vin and build date. Any help would be appreciated. I have been checking the local pick and pull here and have not had any luck. Is there maybe another vehicle that I use the hubs from? I am trying to keep the 4x110 pattern as I just got my new wheels. Thanks, Glenn

It figures, with two full sets of streetable tires sitting here staring me in the face that they wouldn't fit. I guess it's par for the course. When I get the rims I'll check it out. I thought they were wider originally to fit the tires. They are early rx7 wheels 81-83. This board rocks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks again, Glenn

RIGHT THEN! Looks like I have aquired a set of rx-7 wheels. We'll see how long it takes to get them. Now, what is the largest tire that I can run with the stock setup on a ke15, I have two sets of 225/45/13 hoosiers that are free if they fit. Is this even a slight possibility? Thanks, Glenn