Zoidburg

Yeah I know, they are weird length pushrods. However the lifters are very tall and the pushrod sits right on the top, so I reckon the height difference is made up there. I have all the different 5K pushrods and lifters, so I can check the heights before I put them in anyway. The solid lifters in it are weird, never seen them before either. Also ACL appear to make a head shim, so I'll inquire about that. Thanks

Forgot to clarify this earlier... I have not run the motor yet. I got the block on its own recently, and have had the D dished type head for a while now. I thought I should inquire before slapping them together in case she goes boom. Ironically the bloke who sold it to me reckons the motor (running D dish head) blew a head gasket, which totally makes sense now! Also it has solid lifters with adjustable rocker gear, and these weird ball and cup pushrods which are roughly 147.5 mm long. The setup differs completely to my other 5K solid lifter setup, and I've not heard of this length pushrod before. Does anybody have a picture of the factory Toyota 5K solid lifters? I reckon I may have them. Cheers

Hahha, I should've been on here a few weeks ago by the sounds of it! After reading the thread, I don't think mine would be as bad because the dish in my pistons look deeper and the head has not been molested (not skimmed). It appears double head gaskets and spacers are frowned upon, so I think some sort of thick copper head gasket would work for me. If you can help me with the number crunching I reckon we can work this one out. My head is in very good condition, so I want to go ahead with it. Now why did this guy have trouble with water jackets not lining up on the gasket? Are the D dished and O dished blocks different? I thought the 5K uses only one type of head gasket? Thanks

Hi guys, Recently obtained a 5K block with the O dished pistons (referred to as flat tops), and have a D dished head in really good nick. I know this combination will seriously increase the compression, but does anybody know by how much and if it will work? Just not sure if the thing will explode or not! Thanks

Okay, that's what I figured. Not sure what model K motor the electronic dizzy is from, but my magnetic one requires an external ignitor (my MSD box). Guess I'll leave the magnetic one on then, and keep the electronic as a spare. Thanks guys.

Agreed. I had a revy cam in my 5K and thought it was crap, had to flat foot it to keep up with traffic at low revs. Changed to a standard profile cam and it's WAY quicker, and does'nt have to be flogged to keep up anymore because it's always within her powerband. Then on the highway I just put her in 5th, no problems. Uses far less fuel too, which is always a bonus. Why rev the guts out of your motor and chew juice when you don't have too? Well, that's my opinion anyway.

Hi guys, I've been running a magnetic dizzy off a 4K-U on my 5K for a while, which is hooked up to an MSD ignition control module. I also have an electronic dizzy which appears to be in very good condition. Would I experience any gain if I wire up the electronic dizzy, or is my magnetic one better? Thanks

Re-connected the charcoal canister, and it seems to have stopped flooding. However the front carby is still leaking petrol, I think a gasket on it or something else may be stuffed?

Just waisted money on another regulator, the problem still persists... If I move the fuel cap to one side HEAPS of pressure blows out the cap. After reading my trusty Gregory's book, it seems this pressure is let out via the charcoal canister. For starters I don't even have mine hooked up, and the canister itself is probably blocked. Tonight I'll try and test the canister and hook it all up, then see what happens. Can you buy these charcoal canisters new? Thanks

Hmm, now I'm getting worried! My regulator ranges from .5 to 5.5 psi. When I first fitted the regulator I set it to 3 psi, started the motor and after about 5 mins it began to die and then stalled. I then set it to 4 psi, did the same thing, would not even idle. I then set it to 5.5 psi (max) and it seemed fine, until I hit the highway and the motor started to splutter after 5 mins or so. Driving in 60 km/h zones it's fine, but can't sustain on the highway. For whatever reason, there's loads too much pressure in my lines and I'm only running a Goss mechanical fuel pump. I know this should not be the case, but it is. I just had both carbies fully re-built and pressure tested, so the carbies are not to blame (according to Sprints anyway). I'm beginning to think my charcoal box line is blocked up, and is not venting the pressure out the tank. However, fitting the regulator has stopped the car from flooding after it's been turned off, so I'll try the higher rated regulator for now and see what happens. Thanks for the advice on the charcoal box line, I'll try and figure out a way to check if it's blocked?

Okay, no conclusive answers there. I'm running factory twin carbs on a 5K in my KE-30 coupe. I just had the carbs rebuilt and the line from the pump to the carbs holds plenty of pressure after the motor is turned off, too much in fact. I just need to know if it's possible to use the line from the charcoal canister as a fuel return line. Perhaps I should just try a higher rated fuel pressure regulator, and be done with it? Cheers

Hi all, My KE-30 coupe has been flooding whilst the engine is turned off, caused by evaporating fuel in the tank building up too much pressure. This suggests my charcoal canister unit needs replacing. I fitted a fuel pressure regulator which has solved the flooding problem, but now the motor is starved of fuel on the highway and needs more psi than the regulator will allow. Rather than buy another FPR, I intend to remove it and run a return line from the fuel pump to the tank. The charcoal canister has a fuel line from the tank connected to it, but (from what I've read) is designed to emit fuel vapour from the tank to the canister. Would it be possible to use this fuel line as a return line from the fuel pump to the tank? It would essentially be doing the reverse of what it's designed to do, and I'm not sure of the risk involved. If anyone has tried this before or can shed some light on the subject, please let me know as I don't want to blow myself up! Thanks

Since you're being picky now... The keyword in my statement was "apparently". In other words that's what I heard from several people on the subject, and not what I know for sure. Hence the use of the word... "apparently". There was no indication in your reply that your intention was to reiterate. Secondly why reiterate a point I already made, and then not put it in any form of context? Was only trying to help, not start a grammar contest. :(

"Sorry zoidburg, but you're way off the mark. A hydraulic cam runs hydraulic lifters. Solid cam for solid lifters. There is no limitations other than the difference in ramp rates. You can get a big fat hydraulic cam, you can get a mild solid cam and vice versa". Of course a hydro cam runs hydro lifters and solid cam runs solid lifters, I think you should read my post again. I was saying that if you mix and match the two, things don't work out so well! Also I was told by a cam guy that if you grind a hydro cam down too far, the rocker gear may rattle. I was advised against it, but each to their own. I'd really appreciate it if people would read my posts properly before they judge, just a suggestion.

That's alot of questions, but I can shed some light in regards to solid lifters. Hydraulic rocker gear is apparently very limited in respect to cam grinds, and tends not to work properly if the cam has been modified too much. As far as I understand it, that's why people put solid rocker gear/cams in their 5K's. Now solid rocker gear will rattle like hell on a hydraulic camshaft, so you need to change to a solid camshaft as well. I'm not sure how exactly, but hydraulic and solid cams are different, so you must match them to the rocker gear you want to use. If you want solids, I have a complete solid lifter package which I've taken off my 5K. Lifters, pushrods and rocker assembly, PM me if you need them. It really depends on what type of cam grind you want, that will determine which is the better option for you. Hope this helped! :happy:

Yeah I figured someone's had the bore done to suit bigger pistons. I browsed through the MAHLE piston catalogue, they list 50 thou and 100 thou for the 5K. Hmmm, 5K with 100 thou oversized pistons... could be nice?

Oh okay... I have the twin carby setup if you want it.. heheh

Okay, 60 thou should tighten things up! If ACL make them then it will be safe for the block, so that sounds like a good option. Cheers

Nice, that sounds awesome man! Is the 3K-B manifold the twin carb one? I have one in the shed, but removed it from my 5K and put the single down draught Weber on. Mine sounds very civilised compared to that!

Hi all, hope you had a Happy New Year! The 5K block I inherited has 40 thou oversized pistons and unfortunately has some skirt rattle, which is audible whilst driving at certain RPM's. The rings are new, so I'm thinking either the pistons are old or the block was bored out too far. Since I did'nt do these mods, I don't know for certain what the issue is. I'm thinking that if I replace the pistons with slightly larger ones, then perhaps that will tighten everything up and eliminate the rattle. Does anybody know the max piston size you can squeeze into a 5K block? I'm obviously hoping I can go a little bigger than what's in there! Any advice would help alot, as I don't want to go too big and crack the block etc. Thanks :)

Motor runs great now, just put the right pushrods in and she fired up first turn of the key! I managed to track down a set of 150 mm pushrods via a Commercial & 4WD wrecker in Adelaide, were NOT easy to find. Thanks to everyone who chipped in and helped me nut this one out! :y:

Thanks alot! I'll have to give Toyota a call and see if they can find some under that number. Cheers :laff:

Will check compression once I get the right pushrods, as the reading will defintely be low at the moment. As for lifter preload, I don't know what that is! Yes my 5K has the lugs under plugs 1 & 4. I've confirmed I need the shortest pushrods. Does anybody know the part number of these things? I phoned Toyota and the reckon they can't find out which is which from their pushrods. I find this ridiculous, but that's what they said. If I can find out the part number of the shortest 5K pushrods, then I can order them new. If anybody wants to part with a set, please let me know. Thanks :)

Thanks for the timing tips! I'm going to track down the correct length pushrods, then try again. If it still does'nt work, then I'll mess with the timing. I now know for certain I have the wrong pushrods, so I'm going to start by fixing that and then take it from there. I'll let you all know if the situation improves! Cheers guys.

More than likely I need the other lifters and pushrods, makes perfect sense. If anyone can help with this please PM me!