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ke71-rolla

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Posts posted by ke71-rolla

  1. Ah- the ideal box by my reckoning would be that box with a 5th on!

     

    2nd and 3rd are higher, so closer to 4th...

     

    Yeah that's exactly what i noticed with it! I got it for free out of someones backyard....only issue was the bearings(?) were making a truckload of whine in second and a little bit in fourth. Still didn't bother me too much.

     

    And in regards to original post; If its the first time your going to be doing a gearbox change it could take a while could take a while.

    It's not that its a hard job but there are always tricks u learn from working on an old car, there is usually one stiff bolt which wont come out or something of the sort,

    I know the first time i did one i was afraid of the gearbox falling on me, little did i know how light they were!!!

     

    ps disconnect the battery too cos you will be moving the starter.

  2. First 4 gear ratios are the same except in the early boxes, 5th is just a higher gear tacked on the end of a KE70 4speed.

     

    You're right, we never use 5th around town, 4th is just fine- but 5th is handy at 100kph, that 300rpm drop makes the car a bit more civilised.

     

    Ahh rightio, i had myself an early gearbox; preferred it for driving to work through the hills every day. Felt like a rally car!

  3. Just my 2c;

     

    I'd keep the 4spd in it; unless your doing highway driving all the time or have some sort of high powered 4k(?)

     

    I used to have a 5spd thinking it was better cos more gears; that's how it works right? lol

     

    Then the 5spd cacked itself and i needed a gearbox quick, picked up a 4spd and it was so much nicer to drive.

     

    Realised i didn't really need 5th gear and was more hassel than anything else.

     

    Anyway gl with the gearbox swap; those things are light as in a ke70!

  4. Howdy guys, just wondering how to diagnose an exaust manifold air leak. I now own a mkII supra with a 5m.

     

    While driving along and putting the car under load at low rpm; say sitting at 1700 in 4th and putting the throttle flat or when the car just turns on. I can hear a prominent almost popping noise, seeming to come from the side of the engine which has the extractors (4-1).

     

    Is this a noise which i shouldnt worry about? Would i be able to get soapy water and lather up the extractors with it and figure it out?

     

    Thanks for any help ^_^

  5. It's not that bad man, i did mine a few months ago. Just take your time and don't get frustrated with it!!

     

    When i did mine i had to cut a gap in the top of the metal bracket holding the break line in place, just got a small hack saw and took a couple of minutes. Theres no need to bleed the breaks, its just some extra effort which doesnt need to be done.

     

    When removing the struts u just have to disjoin the tie rod ends from the struts, and the two bolts connecting the strut to the LCA's. Then after that the three nuts at the strut top. I found it easiest to use a hydraulic wheel jack to keep the strut in place and from falling out.

     

    Also when removing the tie rod ends, after u undo the nut and remove the split pin, you will need to get a hammer and hit the sh*t out of the thing, seriously as hard as you can, but be carefull not to break the rubber seal. If you do break the rubber seal u can sometimes mend it with a bit of silicone. But you need to hit the joint as hard as you can to loosen it out of position. And when putting it back in u need to raise a jack under the tie rod otherwise the nut wont tighten

     

    The only problem that i incurred was actually removing the springs, i couldnt find a rattle gun powerfull enough to undo the top bolt, so i took it to my local mechanics and they did it all for me for about 50$

     

    Took me about 1.5 hrs to remove the first strut, and about 30mins to remove the second once i found the easiest way for me to do it.

     

    Good luck

     

    EDIT: heres my thread about it http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=39747

  6. Hey just went and picked up a mate because reverse has failed in his 4k Ke50

     

    The car will go into reverse, but when the clutch is released there is alot of clunking noises coming from what sounds like the bellhousing.

     

    Gears 1-5 are still there and work as per normal.

     

    Will take out the gearbox tomorrow.

     

    Confusing ;) thanks guys!

  7. Hey guys, just serviced and tuned my 4k, replaced spark plugs, leads, dissy internals, oil, coolant, gapped points, re-timed, re tuned carby.

     

    Now just got a few queries:

     

    When cold and if i flatten the throttle the engine backfires out the carby (weber 32/32), only happens about once and when first turned on. Is this anything to worry about? Runs fine after about a minute or so of running.

     

    The other night my second cylinder lead kept falling out, I'm sure i pushed it in as far as it would go!!!, i gave all 4 of my leads a good push this morning. Again is there anything causing that? or was it just falling off because it wasnt in hard enough.

     

    Also I'm getting a tweeting noise, or the sound of a fast cricket coming from my engine bay, now i THINK its coming from the LHS of the engine, near the distributor. Anything to look into??

     

    Also when setting the timing of the car, i think i set it to just above 10degrees, I'm not too sure where to set it haha, i just put it to where the engine sounded happiest, and took it for a drive and it seemed to go alright. What should i be looking for when setting the timing and adjusting the carby??

     

    Bit of a list haha >.< but thanks for any help anyone can give!! much appreciated

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