DyNo

A fairly respectable turbocharger by most standards although it has been used and trimmed accordingly on a swag of aplications. The top pic would be to get a nice 7M one they have a pretty fair compressor from memory nearly 3 inch entry and 2 inch outlet , they use a watercooled core but don't use a split pulse exhaust housing. possibly good for 300 odd hp. The 3S model although it has a split pulse exhaust housing is'nt as large upfront , it would definately spool a whole lot quicker than the 7M turbo but would run out of puff a whole lot sooner , possibly still good for around 250hp. These turbos were used in a few other applications although i assume the one you are looking at would be from one of the engines mentioned above. All in all these are a nice enough turbocharger , the 7M model being a worthy upgrade over a wide range of other factory turbos. Cheers , DyNo.

Ok , the sumitomos from a corolla must not be twin piston calipars , i can tell this from your confident post , but like i said in my post "the pic dubbed sumitomo?" if you look at the pictures supplied that picture clearly shows a 2 piece twin piston calipar , so maybe that picture isnt of what it was supposed to be.

LOL , i love the put the shifter on it and hit the key , funny thing is even though we have all done it , not everyone would admit it......lol. If all else fails , grab your Big F@#$%g Hammer and give the bolt a good belt into the crank , just like your trying to Nail the ballencer on "so to speak" that way if some asshole has used Loctite on a previous job (and I'm guessing they must have) the shock helps to fracture the stuff. Worked for me heaps before , although if its a customers car better to wait until they are'nt around because hammers don't look all that professional. DyNo.

Coming in fairly late on the topic but a few things in here took my interest. The first was the link to the pics of the calipars , the top being the girlock and the bottom being (sumitomo?). Of the two calipars shown if both are readily availible ditch the girlock in favour of the sumitomo, the calipar shown in this pic Dubbed "sumitomo" is a twin piston design and will improve breaking consistancy no end over the "Clamp Style" girlock. don't opt for the girlock calipar because of the increased pad surface area , an increased pad surface area might sound good in theory but a more even clamping pressure over a smaller pad will prove way more effective. Take for example the well known Volvo 4 pot calipars , pad surface in these particular calipars is relativly tiny compared with a range of other calipars however with the even clampng pressure acheived through the four pistons they have become well known as a good upgrade option for a wide range of vheicles road and race alike. Second , when taking to a calipar with an angle grinder keep in mind that an average pressure at any given calipar under hard breaking will be around 1500psi , taking this into account , do you really want to thin the cylinder walls of your calipar out ? Grind With Care and Attention. DyNo.

Strange sounding problem you have there , first things first though if you don't get onto the rear main seal it wont be long before you wont have a clutch to worry about anymore. Now you say that your cable is'nt the problem , well without wanting to sound too cocky i would be replacing it... They can seem perfect out of the car when running freely , but when you start loading them up in the car it can be a whole differant story. It just seems strange , the intermittant deal is the bit that rattles me , but still id be replaceing the rear main and cable , id be fairly sure that the cable is your enemy here. Cheers , DyNo.

Ahh it went on forever , whenever it started to make power somthing would shit... i bought a David Izard book , big mistake !!! that guy knew what he was doing , i didnt , he had them 2 litre engines making 500hp in the early 70's with mechanical injection and turbo charging. i made the big mistake of going Rajay , nice enough turbo but with a three stud base plate which didnt like to keep gaskets clamped in anywhere over 12 psi , i used a 45 DCOE (hence the jetting experience) i had to learn fast because the thing liked to fuel up , run out the front , straight down into the alternator and woof up at idle... again the good or should i say bad'ol max 4psi fuel pressure the webers like to accept , try getting a big flow for on boost driving @ 4 psi of fuel pressure, not an easy task. i used cosworth 2.4 forged blanks and had them machined for decompression , waggott back then made a turbo cam for that aplication , i had the block bored (obviously) and o'ringed , i cleaned the ports up , spent a bit more time on the exhaust for a bit nicer flow had the dizzy remapped & locked , but other than that the rest of it was quiet standard. best i ever ran was a 13.197 , never for get that time because it was super shit for the money i had spent... but i am proud to say that the engine is still running about in a little 440 cortina (not mine anymore) , although it probably only gets driven twice a year , its still on the origional build. Cheers , DyNo.

strongly agree , i have used them on the whole range of nissan L series 4 pot engines and they work an absolute treat , and like you say straight forward to bitsify and get back together. haha I'm pretty old school , i still love my carbies , stems back to my first project in the first year of my aprenticeship , 2lt turbo escort , lol what a mission that was , ahhh 1989 what a year. :jamie: sorry.

Good point nick , jetting to suit the application is possibly the most important thing to consider , although the DG/DF series weber carbs are among the most versitile units you can lay your hands on. if we were to play with jetting to suit the 1.6 i would be leaning towards a 065 primary idle and possibly 055 secondary idle , here we arent at all worrying about a lean idle , but going for a clean idle. main jets i would be suggesting no smaller than 135 but again no bigger than 145 on the primary dropping from the standard 2Lt 150 but on the secondary main i would suggest no change over the 155 as you can afford the extra fuel in the higher rev range. air corrections should never be any greater than 040 in size over your main jet sizes in either primary or secondary locations , to me this is the most important part of you rejetting procedure , in the primary side i would opt for 155-160 and would choose the same size in the secondary , this would allow for a slightly leaner primary and a richer secondary adjustment , resulting in a better less boggy and clean low to mid , and a richer mid to top. i would leave emulsion tubes as standard , and as this series of weber is the only one manufactured with non removable chokes they have no choice but to be left as 32/36 either. pump jet is fine left at 050 as well. Cheers , DyNo.

These are a great little (cheap) carb and one that works quiet well on a wide range of small engines. They were factory fitted on the ford 2Lt OHC engines in escorts and cortinas and rerely gave any trouble at all , and much like any single webber carb when tuned right they stayed tuned. Redline make plates to put these carbs on almost everything , the last one i bought set me back $35 for a L20B. don't expect a neck snapping performance increase , but you can expect to notice a difference albiet slight in performance , the biggest difference when fitting these carbs to smaller capacity engines like yours is the deeper induction noise. Your standard cleaner wont fit , the top of the webber is more oblong in shape compared to your circular aircleaner base but normally places like supercheap keep the older style chrome box type filters that are a multifit design and again these are faily cheap as long as you stay away from the big brand names. FuelMiser make a good cheap kit , under 30 bucks , and provided you keep all the bits infront of you you shouldnt go to far wrong , you get instructions in the kit but other than that webbers are one of the most freindly carbs for a beginner to dismantle. Throttle and Choke cables do pose a bit of a problem , but 9 times out of ten theres nothing in them that a bit of backyard inginuity can't sort out , as long as you have a few tools and a little mechanical aptitude you can get these things working succussfully yourself. of course if this thing is a show car dissregard that statement , lol. if you go ahead with the fit , leave the pro's out of it untill your really stuck , its the small projects like this that sharpen your skills for the bigger ones , theres really not that much that you can mess up if you take your time and think about what your doing. Cheers , DyNo.

Just a quick question , could an Admin delete my other post , i don't like my attitude in it , it doesnt suit the board much at all. Thanks , DyNo

Great , i will keep that in mind before i go shooting my trap off again... Cheers , Matt.

i just spent ages replying to everyones posts and when i submitted the post the topic was already locked.... ok , i came in here and got off on the wrong foot by starting a joke about fitting a bigblock , i thought if you guys could laugh at hurricane katrina jokes you might have found it a bit funny , i was wrong , sorry. i havnt threatend anyone here however the gold coast boys would like to know who i am , whats with that , i was supposed to be the keyboard warrior ? no I'm not paul mcgee , however he is the one that came in here and asked for some help but got ridiculed for asking , that upset me a bit , you guys say that you help people then do that. yes i did work on the gold coast , but mentioning workshops would be silly , they were respected workshops and associating a dick like me to them wouldnt be fair. no I'm not 14 , i was 16 years ago though. i don't nor have i ever owened a corolla , i don't dislike them by any means , however i love my mazdas. i do now live in tasmania , i am no longer on the gold coast , so the boys will have to wait for me to come back before they beat me up. sorry to have offended anyone with my corolla jokes , i didnt think it would get taken so seriously , thats the main reason i got upset , a little fun never hurt anyone , especially when it is harmless. i vented on Nick and Redwarf because they seemed to be the ones that kept locking the posts , nothing personal , i don't know the guys , they just seemed a bit to serious and straight down the line at the time. i would apreciate it if all my other posts were removed , they are derogitory and don't suit the board at all . again i apologise for any offence caused , you guys seem to have a great site here , it could only be made better if you lightened up a little bit and were'nt so hard on newbies , afterall we all had to make a start somewhere and ask help of others along the way. Cheers , Matt.