toy_boy

I'm on a mission to find or reproduce some, will.let you know how it goes

They certainly are factory. Available on various australian delivered toyotas from mid 70s to early 80s. KE70, MX13 definitely and probably others

if its only one side the pads might not be aligned properly, try taking em out and putting back in making sure everything seats properly

where i'm at: i bought two caliper rebuild kits... $25 EACH! which i thought was a bit steep for a few seals but not a lot else you can do i guess. also bought two replacement brake lines for the frons, the current ones are sparting to crack and wouldnt pass blue slip anyway. $35 ea. they are different brands as both suppliers (pbs and sumitomo i think) only had one left each. in theory it should make no difference but two the same would have been nice... anyone know of a place with ke70 pbr hoses in stock? i was about to start working on things last week but the clouds were looking a bit ominous and i didnt want to be working on brakes with too much moisture around so i called it off. lucky too because 10 min later the water on the floor of the carport was half way up the wheel stands... no further progress, will probably get put on the backburner for a couple of weeks while i sort out suspension on the supra. i'll post again when i have made some progress. plan is to get the calipers apart, if the pistons are corroded i'll throw the lot away and get some replacement calipers (probably rebuild them since i have the kits), if theyre ok itl go back together with new seals and lines. thanks for your help everyone

could probably use brake cleaner to wash the WD40 off and salvage the pads

I have a MA61 supra for performance... well compared to the rolla anyway. the ke70 is all about cheap reliability and me not spending too much time/$ on it. brakes + head gasket fixed = Rego + Drive (in theory) if in the future it was to get the 4ag or 2rz treatment id definitely be looking at bigger brakes but for the moment its not essential. i will keep an eye out though, if some '86 struts come up for the right price its hard to say no to better brakes and bigger dampers. i do agree about the tedious-ness. only really likely to be the calipers and thats just a few seals and a bit of cleaning, couldnt see a rebuild kit being too exxy. if the master cylinder is the culprit ill probably just replace it. theres no urgency to finishing this, my main motivation at the moment is lazyness. I want garage space for the supra, i can put the wheels back on the rolla to move it out easy enough but if i fix the brakes first thats one less time i have to jack it up and take the wheels off. its a fine line between lazy and efficient.

i'm painfully aware of these similarities, sold a ke55 with perfect brakes for parts not 6 weeks before i worked out how bad the ke70's were. didnt realise they went as far back as ke3x though. at this stage the plan is something along the lines of: 1. flush all lines front and rear until new brake fluid is coming through. this should make sure I'm not putting dirt into new/rebuilt components through old fluid. test. 2. take apart calipers, if they look serviceable i'll rebuild, if not i'll replace with some known to work. replace front brake lines and bleeder niples. probably get the discs machined. i'll price machining vs new discs and rubber vs braided lines. test 3. if things still aren't right i'll replace the master cylinder. might consider rebuilding if it looks ok and kits are available. test 4. next look at the F/R bias valve a bit more closely. can't really see where the problem could be here, other than blockage. test 5. if theyre still not working... GRRRR! ... ? are the front and rear brakes on seperate enough circuits that messing with front lines/calipers wont require re-bleed of the rears? not a big deal either way, just wondering. thoughts on rebuilding vs replacing? rebuilding is cheap, would maintain 100% originality on the car. i also like how this type or rebuildability is so far removed from todays disposable society. replacing is more expensive (not really a huge factor) but easy and "guarantees" that the part will work as required. i would only go down the rebuild route if could identify exactly what was wrong eg broken spring and the "main component" was A1. going to check prices/availability and take it from there cheers Alex

thanks heaps guys, this is all good stuff. have to say, I'm leaning towards full rebuild of braking system (new master cylinder, rebuild calipers, new lines, machine discs). rear brakes appear to be all in order, plenty of meat on the shoes etc so i will try not to play around with that end until i have everything else sorted. good to know caliper kits are still available, i was wondering about that. i didnt spend a great deal on the car and the body and interior (sweeet honeycomb patern) are good so i don't mind spending a bit to get it all fixed. looks like it has a BHG or (lets hope not) a cracked head too... DAMMIT... turning into more of a project than i anticipated. cracked head/BHG thread coming soon... pretty sure the booster is working, did the test described when i was first looking into the brake issues and it did exactly what you said. littleredspirit, is that the full strut w/ insert? oem? if not what brand? how much $ you looking for? postage to sydney might not be pleasant, theyre pretty heavy. PM me if you want what do you suggest for plugging brake lines when stuff is removed? i was thinking those little red plugs you used to get with spud guns but don't know if theyre still available. blu tac ok? cheers

btw, it has the single piston girlock calipers, don't know if any other types were released in aus.

ok, i'll start from the start: i bought a 130000km 1 owner (old dude lost his license) 5spd ke 70 wagon off the side of the road a couple of months ago. it had been sitting in a padock for about 8 months storing hay. the plan is to get it re-regod for my brothers first car. took it for a test drive, all good but the brakes were pretty (very) weak, best i could describe it is like the car was wheezing to a stop, no bite whatsoever. they did improve a bit after a few hard stops so i put it down to the surface rust on the discs, circa 1983 brake pads and possible air or water in the lines. i bought the car for $275 and drove it home. note, rear drums seem to be working fine, pedal feel was normal (ie it felt like it was getting vacuum "boost") and vacuum lines appear to be fine. i can supply photos if it helps diagnose. just got around to replacing the pads and have run into a bit of a problem. when i jacked up the front end and spun the rotors i noticed the pads were dragging on both sides. took the pads out and they were rooted, only a couple of mm left and gouges out of the pad material. went to put the new ones in but couldnt push the caliper piston in far enough to fit both pads and the rotor. the piston was too stiff for a cheap pad seperator to open fully so i ended up using a G clamp and a fair bit of (slow) pressure. put the new pads in and bolted up the calipers. initially the rotos spun freely but when i pressed the brake pedal the caliper closed but didnt open up again, making it almost impossible to turn the rotor (much worse than with the old pads). i then bled some brake fluid, which released enough pressure that the rotors will turn easily enough but the pads are still contacting. when bleeding it did look like there was some foreign particles coming out in the fluid and maybe a couple of small air bubbles but not much. anyone got an idea of what is causing this and a course of action to fix it? looking to keep things budget but will obviously spend the money to get it fixed. TSRM suggests it could be: 1. clogged master cylinder ports -> check and clean master cylinder and resvior. or 2. frozen wheel cylinder or caliper pistons -> check, free up or renew pistons. at first i thought the master cylinder port controlling the front brakes might not be functioning properly but if that was the case wouldnt the calipers opened all the way when i released the brake fluid? what are the chances that both caliper pistons are stiff and just need lubricating? could i do this without taking the whole caliper apart and overhauling? other ideas? so, what should i do? replace master cylinder? rebuild or replace calipers? something else? if you need more info just let me know any help would be greatly appreciated cheers I'm starting to wish i had kept my rusty old '55 for parts (instead of selling it to someone on here for the same purpose)