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Posted
hey adam, what was with the aggressiveness back there?? first warning a little lighter maybe?

 

I'm sick of dickheads doing stupid stuff. People should realise that if they're posting outside their region, they should at least contribute something worthwhile. Saying something like "Hell yeah I want a 4A-GZE too. Fully sik!" is most definitely not what I'd consider worthwhile, and just pisses me off. I may have been a little bit harsh, but this is the new leaner, meaner Adam. :lol:

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Posted
i think i might have lost some power as i can't spin the wheels n e more on the road it just chirps n takes off now, got a new a battery n took the intercooler off and put it back on but don't know y it wont spin!

 

Hmm, sounds like a serious issue. To save you a lot of trouble, I'll take the car off your hands for a carton. Believe me, it's the best way. :lol:

 

Make sure you've connected all your intercooler piping properly. I've had issues with my pipes being badly connected, and you basically end up running the engine as if it's naturally aspirated but with a massive compressor creating drag on the motor, slowing it down even more.

 

Also, when I was last racing, the intercooler pipes came loose twice. The first time meant I just lost power, the second time something happened differently, and the engine acted like it had a wide open throttle. With the way the throttle body and supercharger/intercooler is setup, if any of the piping between the intercooler and the engine comes loose, the engine can suck air in of it's own accord, as there's no throttle body stopping the air from rushing in. If that happens, take the car straight out of gear and switch the ignition off unless you want to crash or blow your engine from over-revving it.

Posted
Oh damnnnnnnnn

 

I found what I want! I want...!

 

Wonder what it will go for, seems like a farken bargain. I could buy it too, but then I'd be up shit creek and run out of money for everything else.

:lol:

 

btw, double post ftw

 

I missed this post in my replies. If this really does have a forged 1800cc crank (probably just a forged version of the 7A-FE crank), then it's pretty damn cool. Obviously if they've really achieved 400rwhp, it's used a turbo, and a pretty friggin' big one at that. I'm going to watch this auction and wait until it's relisted at a far lower price, because I don't think it will sell for $2,000.

Posted
To be honest it's never really entered my mind. To do a conversion to the SC14 involves a fair bit of work, and I think it would be easier to go with a turbo. Plus the bigger the supercharger, the more drag it creates on the motor. I'm sure power would increase with the bigger volume of the bigger blower, but not by nearly as much as a similar volume turbo running the same boost.

 

Yeah, I mainly meant as an intermediate step but tbh no idea how much of an effort it is to change. Almost means you could keep your beloved exhaust note :lol: :)

 

Turbo ftw! Free power really, no supercharger engine sapping badness! And coming onto boost is awesome.

 

Turbo 5K? ;)

Posted
I missed this post in my replies. If this really does have a forged 1800cc crank (probably just a forged version of the 7A-FE crank), then it's pretty damn cool. Obviously if they've really achieved 400rwhp, it's used a turbo, and a pretty friggin' big one at that. I'm going to watch this auction and wait until it's relisted at a far lower price, because I don't think it will sell for $2,000.

 

Woah, those HP figures weren't there the other day. Or I didn't notice them either way. That's a f@$ken stout figure for a 1.8. Wonder how hard it spins...

 

300rwkw :lol:

Posted

I've read that the 7A-GE's shouldn't be revved to more than about 7500-8000rpm, however if this has a forged crank, it may have greater potential for rpm. Of course, with forced induction I wouldn't think you'd need much more than 7500rpm.

Posted

BTW, you may notice I've just edited this topic's title so it now states that this topic is for NT members. That way anyone who's just looking at the most recent RollaClub posts should know that it's not a general topic for anyone and everyone.

Posted

sort of, new new tyres will b on 2moz or day after, these r well dead tyres that r brand new, been sitting. how can u tell if the cooler is leakin??????

 

and i think i found the ABV finally can't work out the diagram thou.....

Posted (edited)

Put the car in neutral and start it up. Pull on the throttle cable while working in the engine bay. The S/C starts working when the throttle is pressed to a certain point, so just give the cable a good reef to ensure you get to that certain point. Obviously don't hold it on really hard as you'll risk revving the engine too hard for too long. You'll hear (and possibly see) the supercharger kick in as soon as you reef the throttle.

Edited by ancullen
Posted

Found this in the trading post yesterday:

 

datsun 1200 ute Rally Association Darwin approved rally car, 4-age motor with 5.l limited slip diff and Celica 5 speed, lengthened wheelbase, roll cage, harnesses and seats, lots of spares, good fun car for rallying, needs work, $1500 negotiable STUART PARK

 

Tempting or what? I know I'd like to have a rollcage, but they cost about $1,000-1,500. So paying $1,500 for another vehicle doesn't seem so bad. It's a pity it's not a Corolla though. Plus I'm looking at spending money on more important things at the moment, so I thought I'd list the ad here in case any of you guys were interested.

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