ben Posted November 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2004 Thanks for that, I might just stick with the single weber then, as it goes hard up top and can get reasonable fuel economy out of it if i keep lean jets and a low float level and just sacrifice the power a bit. My only concern with the SU's is how often you have to retune them. Besides, I've grown to love the sound of the Weber when its opened on full throttle! In the meantime i'd better get on with converting this thing over to a solid Cam and lifters etc. Have decided to use Chev solid lifters and will get 4K rocker gear and get a set of 1 piece puchrods of the required length. I think Crane Cams make some pretty good chromoly pushrods and a mate of mine got a set for his holden v8 for about $200 so they shouldn't be too much, i hope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redwarf Posted November 4, 2004 Report Share Posted November 4, 2004 If you have SU's set up properly the first time, you should never have to touch them again. I had mine professionally set up and didn't touch them again for 2 and half years. The Webers are touchier than the SU's ever were. Yes you can't beat the sound of Webers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben Posted November 4, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2004 Back to the topic of solid lifters again, what, if any reliability issues occur because of the conversion? A mate of mine raised the question of how will the solid lifters get oil to the top of the motor? The 5K head has an oil gallery to the centre rocker pedistal and then out along the shaft to the rockers doesn't it? From there it should also go down the pushrods to the lifters yeah? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben Posted November 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2004 Pulled out the cam and oh what a mess! No3 cyl exhaust lobe chewed up, no wonder i had lifter noise! That cam was only reground 2 years ago. Had a lot of lift though, over 400thou at the valve stem. The other new lifters i had put in still looked brand new, so i don't know why it would just chew out that one particular lobe. The other lobes where starting to pit as well though. Taking it in to Camtech for a regrind and conversion to solid. Am tempted to go for a milder cam to get a bit better fuel economy as it now gets driven to work everyday and fuel prices are so bloody expensive in Sydney: $1.10/L is the lowest price for shell optimax i've seen in a couple of months. Might get better low down torque from a milder cam too as with the current grind theres no real go until you get over 4000rpm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben Posted November 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2004 Getting a new billet cam ground to the same specs as the old one as mine was not regrindable. Have got a set of 4k rocker gear and a 4k pushrod to see how it adjusts up. Still a few questions remain if anyone can help. will the stock valve clearance be ok? Will there be adequate oil supply to the lifter given that the 4k pushrods don't have the oil hole? Should i be using 3k pushrods instead of the 4k, is there any difference? If i use the chev solid lifters an Datsun A12 pushrods, do the chev soilds have an oil hole in them? Basically is there any need to supply extra oil to the solid lifters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redwarf Posted November 8, 2004 Report Share Posted November 8, 2004 If you have a new cam, the cam tag should have your clearances written on it..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted November 9, 2004 Report Share Posted November 9, 2004 yep, the camcard will give you the info you need. the oil from the topend of the motor drains back down the lifter bores. it should be fine. 4k pushrods are about 10mm longer than the 3k items. i have 3k pushrods with my converted (to solid) hydraulic lifters (5k with 5k head) and they are a touch longer than ideal. i think 4k ones will be too long, unless maybe they come from a dished piston engine. if you run chev lifters i have no idea on what pushrods to use. never tried them. i think the oil hole is just used to keep the hydraulic lifter topped up with oil. i don't really think it is a requirement for a solid lifter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben Posted November 9, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2004 When you converted the holden 6 hydraulic to solid did you just sit the pushrod seat on the bottom of the lifter? No other mods required? I'll try to find some 3k pushrods from somewhere then... Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted November 9, 2004 Report Share Posted November 9, 2004 yes, the seats are simply dropped to the bottom of the lifter. just make sure the pushrods are of the shallow cup type at the top. if you get the deep cup ones you may get binding at full lift. probably not a big deal to trim them down if you need to if you can only source the deep cup ones. as i have said previously, the way mine has been setup, the adjusters have to be backed right off as the 3k pushrods are a touch longer than ideal. this puts the adjusters very close to the valve cover at full lift. i haven't had problems with them tapping on the underside of the rocker cover (my cam is 400 thou lift at the valve), but if you run a higher lift cam you may need to grind a little away in places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted November 11, 2004 Report Share Posted November 11, 2004 an update on that: i had a tapping rattly noise. thought it was timing chain or something. i pulled the rocker cover and there is 8 little shiny spots where the adjusters have been touching. i got my moto tool and ground the ribbing under the rocker cover back where the shiny spots were. after i cleaned it all up i sprayed a bit of paint under it to make it easier to see if there is still any contact in future. thinking if i have any more troubles i'll shorten a set of adjusters and recut the screwdriver slots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben Posted November 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2004 Cheers for that, i'll see what has to be ground away from where to prevent contact. Just got my new billet steel cam back from Camtech- was still too hot to touch it was that new! Set valve lash to 14 thou and is the same specs as previous grind exept for being a solid grind. Have a set of 4k rocker gear i have to clean up and then i have to chase down these pesky little 3k pushrods from somewhere; not having much luck at the wreckers so far. Toyota don't have em any more and nor do the likes of HM Gem engines or Crow Cams. Just keep looking i guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irokin Posted November 12, 2004 Report Share Posted November 12, 2004 Where are you? Ive got a full set of them out the back from a 3K-C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redwarf Posted November 12, 2004 Report Share Posted November 12, 2004 Ditto.... I'm northside..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben Posted November 18, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2004 I'm in Sydney unfortunately! But its OK cos i'm from Brisbane and am really a Queenslander!!! But you gotta go where the work is... Car is still registered in QLD tho, too bloody expensive down here. Have a contact down here that has somehow managed to aquire a full set of BRAND NEW 3k pushrods! From where i don't know cos the closest i got was a couple of different wreckers trying to sell me complete motors, no thanks... I'll let you know how i go when (& if) i get them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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