TOMsGPTurbo Posted November 4, 2003 Report Share Posted November 4, 2003 Hey guys, Anyone wanna share some driving skills they have learnt over the years??? :blinks: Everything I have learnt is in FWD's, my fave would be lift off oversteer through corners. I'm not a big fan of the handbrake, but apparently somehow it can be used to throw the car through corners? Lately I've been learning and practicing heal and toe and left foot braking. A while ago I had 2 experiences that caught me by surprise, I would like to know what is the best thing to do in the circumstances: Your going through a long sweeping blind corner on a mountain at high speed and you go that fast that the car starts to under steer so you lift your foot of the accelerator and the car starts to lift off over steer; what do you do ??? (This happen to me in the Eunos and the Rolla II - I nearly put the Eunos into a ditch at 160km/h and the Rolla II I just rode the corner at 140km/h until it straightened.. both awaked moments.(NB: Both happened on a track and not the road :D )) ________________________________________________________________________________ ____ The Bottom Line This manual provides and explains the workings of many techniques that are used on real roads in any weather condition. Track racing is a special form of racing. One races on a smooth, usually wide somewhat twisty track, usually on a dry, warm and bright day. Conditions could not provide more of a challenge of a persons true motoring skills! Right? As if! This manual is not about racing on tracks. Tracks are, by their nature, un-natural, clinical - not at all like those real world conditions. Real world conditions are far more demanding than any track. They are unpredictable, unstable, changing weather and climate. Roads that may suddenly be iced down, gravel, mud - everything. Real roads can be as narrow as the car, with hairpins and outrageous turn combinations. The premier motorsport that deals with these conditions is called Performance Rallying - or just Rally Racing for short. Rally means to race on closed down stretches of challenging public roads, real roads. There is no question that these drivers have the very best vehicle control and racing skills on earth, for no other motorsport is as similar to real world conditions and cars such as these. Do you want to learn about the tricks, the driving techniques used in these motorsports? They work just fine with normal cars, after all. Rally cars are not specified as any type of car, they can be anything. This manual assumes you know the concepts of under, neutral and over steer, braking before entering a corner and not inside it and the difference between ABS and non ABS brakes. Nothing in this guide is suitable for truck vehicles such as SUV's and should never be attempted due to roll-over risk. SPEED KILLS - YOU DO NOT NEED TO DRIVE FAST TO HAVE FUN You know the law. These techniques are not compatible with safe disciplined driving. Under Steer is the Main Obstacle A tire that rolls free always has the most possible grip, for it offers no resistance to rolling. As such, a tire that is not spinning will always provide the best grip. This is true for turning as well as accelerating. So gripping through a turn should be the fastest way. There is just one problem - the worse grip gets the more the car will under steer - the inability to turn the car properly. It might seem paradoxical that driving in the way that gives the most grip would be slower around a corner. Despite driving in the way that gives the best grip, all cars will show exaggerated under steer tendencies when overall grip is worse than dry pavement. The more slippery it gets, the worse the under steer. To turn properly speed must be lowered to compensate. If under steer could be countered, then cornering speeds could be higher. As such, most driving techniques are about overcoming this under steer and relate to changing the direction of movement. Over steer is not much an issue with the skill levels required to perform these techniques. If you can do these tricks, you will have learned to have good enough car control to counter the over steer. There are two ways to overcome this under steer. For front wheel drive cars, there is only one proper technique, and it is called left-foot braking. For all wheel drive and rear wheel drive drive trains there is the power slide. ..Not Always the Case On clear paved roads in general, under steer is not much of an issue in a well tuned car. Attempting to use a power slide will wear out the tires extremely fast as well as wasting perfectly good traction that could have been used for getting around the corner with faster speed. Left-foot braking will still work to some extent, but will hardly be necessary. Do not to become obsessed with the idea of that one needs to power slide around every turn. During less severe turns gripping works better. During short, but perhaps somewhat severe turns, it is enough to merely provoke some over steer to get through at highest possible speed, without initiating a power slide. As a rule of thumb: The less grip, the more fancy driving techniques are needed to counter. Power Sliding / Drifting No doubt the most popular and spoken of technique in the past years, due to exposure to Japanese cartoon Initial D, Japanese drifting contests (through the import scene) and perhaps even through the exposure to performance rallies in the media. The cartoon Initial D revolves around Japanese street racers who race in the dry twisty paved roads in the mountains at night, where drifting, basically driving somewhat sideways in corners, is the explained to be the fastest way through a corner. This is not true, and then no wonder there are myths regarding this technique. In a RWD car - Works by applying more power than grip allows to the rear tires. This creates wheel spin, which is a loss of traction (to some extent). Lateral grip is reduced and the rear will have worse lateral grip than the front in a RWD car, causing some over steer. The nose of the car thus is aimed more inward in the turn than normal. Yet the car does not travel in the direction of the nose, but slides sideways. Depending on how much the tire is forced to rotate differently from the ground, it will gain or lose traction. More wheel spin equals less traction and more over steer. So in order to succeed with a power slide in a rear wheel drive car the driver must balance the throttle. If too much throttle is applied, the rear will slide out further than 45 degrees (or whatever the maximum turning of the front wheel is) from the direction of travel which results in spinning out. Not enough throttle and the rear will regain grip and under steer might cause the car to go off the road. The driver must counter steer the front of the car in the direction of travel or the rear end will overtake the front without any possibility of recovery, causing a spin out. In an AWD car - Same principles as the RWD but with many advantages. Not just the rear wheels are slipping, but the front too, and as all four tires have the same diminished grip the rear will not try to overtake the front. This means there is no need to steer the front in the direction of travel. A slipping wheel still has grip, just not as good as when rotating with the same speed as the ground beneath it. When sliding sideways in an AWD car, it will pull twice as hard in the direction of the nose than an RWD. Also it is completely steerable by the front wheels. As the wheels are constantly spinning faster than the ground, the car may be turned more than 45 degrees from the direction of travel, for the front wheels, while not aligned properly, can still change the angle of the car as long as it isn't sliding backward. Yes, one can even correct when the car is pointing over 90 degrees off the direction of travel! Therefore spinouts pose nearly no risk. The advantages of all wheel drive become much larger in racing the more slippery it gets. Not only is it more stable and dynamic, It can go through slippery corners at much higher speed than any other drive train and extract itself from corners with mind boggling speeds. Too Much Traction Initiating a power slide is the hardest part to succeed with. Rear wheel drive has the easiest chance of succeeding as all the engine power is concentrated on only two wheels, whereas all wheel drive has four wheels that share the engine power. If there is not enough power then it might not be possible to initiate wheel spin by turning and powering on the throttle alone. The only other alternative is to use advanced driving techniques to provoke the car into wheel spin. These tricks are nearly always necessary on AWD in to break traction as the natural tendency for AWD is under steer. Simply turning and powering will mostly result in ploughing nearly straight. The process of provoking a slide is called to destabilize the car. The Technique Library Left-Foot Braking Applies To: FWD Usage: Eliminates under steer, achieving neutral steer or even over steer. Theory of Operation: The front wheels are unaffected by the braking as the engine keeps them moving, so their traction is good. The rear wheels are progressively braked which induces resistance to rolling. Worse lateral grip on the rear tires are achieved, making the whole car happier to turn. Instructions: Upon entering a turn, turn in as usual using the steering wheel. Use your left foot to apply the brakes progressively. Depending on engine power, you will probably need to apply more throttle to maintain speed. The higher the braking applied the larger the effect. Notes: The more slippery the surface and higher the speed, the more the effect. Highly dependant on engine power and tuning. Most cars are tuned for front brake bias for under steer (which is considered safest for passenger cars) makes it harder to use. Wears the brakes faster than normal, the front pair in particular. Pendulum Applies To: RWD and AWD. Usage: Destabilizer, for initiating small and large power slides. Also helps car turn around unusually sharp short corners where no power slide is needed. Theory of Operation: Body roll and weight transfer from the two wheels on one side to the other is much stronger, therefore lessening/breaking rear wheel traction. Instructions: Brake earlier than normal before the turn, if speed is too high. If you do not brake earlier and braking is needed, there will be no manoeuvring room for the pendulum. Keeping your speed neutral, while still on the straight before the turn: 1. Quickly start to turn away from the turn 2. Immediately steer back into the actual turn. 3. If power slide is intended, apply sufficient throttle for wheel spin. Notes: The more slippery the surface and higher the speed, the more the effect. Hard to perform at lower speeds without a tighter steering rack. Scandinavian Flick Applies To: All cars which are not equipped with automatic transmissions nor ABS brakes. Usage: Similar to pendulum, but only serves as destabilizer. Safer and more appropriate to use at extremely slippery conditions. Theory of Operation: Rear wheels are not given a chance to regain traction after being locked up from the quick sudden rotation of the car. Instructions: Instead of braking normally in a straight line: 1. Flick the car slightly away from the turn. 2. Immediately release throttle and Apply full braking (wheels must lock) and clutch (or else the engine will stall). The car will now head down the road in a sideways skid pointing away from the turn, decelerating. 3. Put shifter into appropriate gear and turn steering wheel all the way in the direction of the upcoming turn. 4. As the turn arrives, let go of brakes. The car will slingshot into the turn in the same was as if a pendulum was used. Let go of clutch and get back on the throttle. Notes: If you hesitate when first applying the brakes you may go off the road or the front wheels may lock before the rear, making the car aim itself back in the direction of travel. RWD Power Slide Applies To: RWD Usage: Eliminate risk of fatal under steer on less than ideal roads, resulting in higher cornering speeds. Theory of Operation: Spinning rear tires have decreased lateral grip. Instructions: If the engine power is sufficient to break traction simply flick the car into the turn. Immediately apply enough throttle to break traction while at the same time counter steering the car (newbies will notice that if you do not do this at the same time as you apply the throttle you will end up spinning out). More throttle = More lateral tail slide, less forward propulsion. Less throttle = Less lateral tail slide, more forward propulsion. You must find the proper balance. The ideal is as little tail slide as possible, just enough to stop it from regaining grip and under steering. To stop sliding, back off throttle gently and apply opposite lock (relative to the turn). Notes: Stronger engine is easier to work with. Limited-slip or locked differential is nearly a must-have for proper operation. It is possible to use the end of a powerslide to pendulum into another, in the opposite direction. Useful when going from one turn that leads directly into the other. Theory of operation is the same as the final moments of the scandinavian flick. AWD Power Slide Applies To: AWD Usage: Eliminate risk of fatal under steer on less than ideal roads, resulting in higher cornering speeds. Theory of Operation: Spinning tires have decreased lateral grip. Instructions: Destabilize the car. After having done so, stay on the throttle. More throttle = More sideways motion, less forward propulsion. Less throttle = Less sideways motion, more forward propulsion. Ideally the rotation of the car is perfect so it needs no adjustments from the steering wheel - then it is merely kept straight. If adjustments are needed, simply turn the steering wheel and use the throttle to adjust cornering line. You must find the proper balance. The ideal is sliding at an as angle possible without regaining traction and under steering. To stop sliding, counter-steer (relative to the turn). If needed, feather throttle. Notes: Stronger engine is easier to work with. Limited-slip or locked centre and rear differential is nearly a must-have for proper operation. It is possible to use the end of a powerslide to pendulum into another, in the opposite direction. Useful when going from one turn that leads directly into the other. Theory of operation is the same as the final moments of the scandinavian flick. Lift-Off Over Steer Applies To: All drive trains. Usage: Mid-bend adjustability. Induces over steer. Theory of Operation: Deceleration from engine braking of vehicle causes the mass/weight to load on the front wheels from the rear. The lighter rear will have less traction than normal, thus less lateral traction. Instructions: When turning, gradually or fully come off the throttle. Notes: Does not work as well with automatics nor FWD. Many cars have so much under steer built into them that this does not work. It is highly dependant from car to car. RR and MR cars are particularly sensitive to lift-off over steer. Many an accident has happened from an owner of a high powered RWD car but without proper driving skills, lifting off the throttle before or inside the turn, spinning out. Parking/Hand Brake Turn Applies To: FWD, RWD, AWD without limited-slip/locked centre differential, Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII Usage: Turning the car around very tight hairpins and turns, even on dry pavement. Destabilizer. Theory of Operation: The hand brake is connected to rear wheels only. Applying the hand brake will cause instant loss of traction in the rear, making the rear slide out. Instructions: If in a RWD or AWD, press clutch pedal until release of hand brake. For super tight turn: Turn the steering wheel half a rotation in the turn direction and apply hand brake for as long as you wish to rotate. Ideally the car should nearly stop moving all together by the time you are done rotating. Let go of hand brake slightly ahead of the time you wish to stop rotating. The higher the speed, and the more slippery it is, the harder to stop the rotation. For destabilizing: Turn the steering wheel half a rotation in the turn direction and apply hand brake for a brief moment - only enough to cause sideway sliding of the rear wheels. Then re-engage clutch and come on the throttle. Notes: Works very well (and should never be used other than) at low speeds. AWD cars with a centre limited-slip or locked differential will also lock up the front wheels when applying the handbrake. Lancer Evolution VII has a computer controlled hydro-electric clutch that automatically disengages any locking when hand brake is applied. Careful Clutch-Stab Applies To: RWD and AWD with manual transmission. Usage: Low speed destabilizer. Theory of Operation: Sudden overpowering of wheels causes wheel spin. Instructions: Press clutch pedal, come off throttle and start turning. Match revs to speed, then let go of clutch quickly while applying (depending on engine power output) a lot of throttle. Notes: Useful when having braked too late for a scandinavian flick or pendulum, especially on AWD drive trains. Quick Clutch-Stab Applies To: RWD and AWD with manual transmission. Usage: Low speed destabilizer. Theory of Operation: Revs of engine will quickly rise when clutch is disengaged, and will suddenly overpower the wheels when re-engaged causing wheel spin. Instructions: While turning, apply throttle and stomp the clutch pedal once quickly. Notes: Useful when having braked too late for a scandinavian flick or pendulum, especially on AWD drive trains. Submitted by Subyroo - 13/Mar/2003 Reference http://www.ausubaru.com/articles/drivingtech.htm ________________________________________________________________________________ ____ This is something I found on the net that I think will be of interest to you guys - well i hope it will be!! Tom :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitephyre Posted November 4, 2003 Report Share Posted November 4, 2003 1 4m t3h 5uckz0r a7 dr1v1ng :-) but seriously, I'm on the other end, always had RWD's so even though it can get hairy, i like to *coughstepitoutcough* have fun now and again :) :blinks: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicine_Man Posted November 5, 2003 Report Share Posted November 5, 2003 understeering sucks arse :blinks: spend some money on suspension and its much easier to control a car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicine_Man Posted November 5, 2003 Report Share Posted November 5, 2003 why spend money and not get "the right suspension" ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitephyre Posted November 5, 2003 Report Share Posted November 5, 2003 pedders ownz all :blinks: :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hachi roku Posted November 10, 2003 Report Share Posted November 10, 2003 hey guys ask nick about mine and MSF17 driving styles on the latest cruise glorious is fun in the wet. When i get the locker in the sprinter ill show yous a go big or go home drift Session. hachi roku. co founder of team Phatoyz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicine_Man Posted November 10, 2003 Report Share Posted November 10, 2003 Last time I checked driving was meant to be in a straight line, not sideways :KY: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hachi roku Posted November 10, 2003 Report Share Posted November 10, 2003 If ya don't lose it your not tryin hard enough, I ended up in a mud puddle back my way after the cruise i tried a bit 2 hard Hachi Roku Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicine_Man Posted November 10, 2003 Report Share Posted November 10, 2003 I almost ended up wearing the guardrail twice a a few thursdays ago, thats sure slowed me down :dry: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOMsGPTurbo Posted November 11, 2003 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2003 I totally agree, Mountain driving is real life fun... risky too.. no room for mistakes or it will cost you your life or your car. Tom :KY: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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