My turbo is definitely f@$ked. Heaps of play in both turbines, and the shaft on the inlet side was able to be pulled out as it had broken inside the turbo. :y: Pissed at the timing, as my financial situation was just starting to look not so bad, and now I've got to spend money on something I don't really want to. At least I've got the money there to do it with for once.

Just had a thought: Andrew, do you still have the GT28RS you bought off Stephen? If you do, would you consider selling it? If you don't, who did you sell it to?

carnt remember who i sold it to, some fella putting it on a silvia

 

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-Garrett-GT3082-...%3A1%7C294%3A50

not good adam.....

 

got new box for mistr2 2day so that a fun job on my list to do.... also gota fix my seat in the risto coz sum fukhead broke it yesterday, it doesnt move anymore....

anyone know anyone interested in an aristo??? considering selling it, kind a abit exspensive for me atm, would be keep to swap for a manual turbo rwd

Yo guys, sup?

I'm back in D town for a while as a few of you know.

 

Don't suppose anyone has a spare 4AGE Oxygen sensor floating about? I shoudl really put one in... but don't want to fork out for a newy. Go stooge go!

Bugger. Thanks for the link Andrew, but it looks like I'll be getting the GT3071 if the GT28RS is unavailable. I can buy GT28RS kits from a couple of companies, but it has been suggested that it will only make a very minimal difference to the CT20b, and I figure if I'm going to spend the money, I may as well spend a couple of hundred extra and have a turbo with more potential. Could go the GT3082, but I don't need that much power. The GT3071 should keep decent spooling speed. Plus if it can make 500whp on an MR2, that's HEAPS in my book. 560whp is just ridiculous. :)

 

Got a few more concerns having looked down the ports of the engine, as we can see that the valves are white. Not sure if this is a ceramic coating, or if they've been burnt. I'll be taking photos into Dave at Hi Tech to seek his opinion. I'll get some photos of the turbo at the same time and post them all up on here.

 

Here's some links to the kits I've been looking at. KO Racing seem fairly expensive to get a kit that matches the ATS kits. Plus ATS were EXTREMELY helpful and quick to respond, whereas I've only got a response from KO Racing this morning.

 

KO Racing kits

 

ATS Racing Garrett GT turbo kits

 

Speed Source GT28RS kit (no reply from these guys)

I'm a friggin' idiot. I completely forgot about Fensport. They do rebuilt CT20b's! Available in three specs, two of which have upgraded shafts to avoid me having the same issue again.

 

Fensport ST205 Parts

 

The Stage 2 item is looking good, as it's got the upgraded shaft, 360-degree thrust, and can run up to 1.5bar of boost, giving up to 360hp power potential (with other mods). It would cost about AUS$1,600, plus postage, plus I'd need a new downpipe, which would be another $500. So that's roughly $2,300, versus $3,000 for the full GT3071 kit. Hmm, can't make up my mind.

we'll i see it as a cirtan power level is never good enough lol, so why not go the slightly bigger and have that scope for when the time comes, + garrett turbo's are generally very reliable

and 3g's is a veryyy good price, what about aftermarket managment as well?

 

you talked to GCG turbo's. there probably able to rebuild and put gt30 internals in your ct20b,

i researched this a fair bit when i was thinking about a chaser,

I'm thinking I could get the GT3071 and have that power potential for later on when I've got the money to upgrade ECU, cams, stroker, etc. The CT20b is appealling in that I know without any doubt that it bolts straight on. However, I'd also need a new downpipe anyway, so I'm looking at around $2,300 with postage for the CT20b & downpipe, versus $3,000 with postage for the GT3071. Then again, the GT3082 is only $50 more again, and it would DEFINITELY cater to more power further down the line, but I reallly don't want lag. I do want enough grunt to beat Anthony's S2000 with a clear margin, and the GT3071 will do that, however, Anthony's now looked into some performance upgrades that may negate my improvements. Bloody hell this is a difficult decision!

To add to my woes, ST205's don't have a ceramic coat on their valves (not that I thought it was likely). So the engine has been running lean.

 

FARK!!!!

sell before fail......

 

is it really worth pushin the motor if u know it gunna fail

 

starting my gearbox swap 2day anyone know if i hav to remove the drive shafts at the hub if it i can just spit them were they join as half shafts??

Edited June 30, 200917 yr by wasfishing

probably able to split them, last time I had mine up on ramps looked like the way to go, can't say 100%

 

Take a page from my book Adam, just cry, wipe your tears and find a dark room, then cry once more.

 

Rinse and repeat till the pain just doesnt hurt anymore lol

ROFL - good advice Stephen.

 

Whichever turbo I get, I DEFINITELY won't be running higher than stock boost. Turbosmart boost controller will be removed so the standard thingy can do its job again, giving 9psi in 1st & 2nd, and 13psi in the top three gears. Have to look at an aftermarket ECU, and possibly bigger injectors before upping the boost again.

I thought it went on the dyno when boost controller was fitted? Surely the AFR's would have shown there?

 

Edit: Disregard that no dyno of course lol silly AWD, hrrm, mental blank stupid end of financial year,

Edit also: Does it have the standard FPR or aftermarket?

Edited June 30, 200917 yr by Pure-SX

you should never up or down the boost, in any boosted car unless its tuned for more boost, otherwise you run lean or ritch, otherwords

busted engine, weather its forged or not it'll break if you screw with the boost