Igniter For Wolf 3d

[madrolla68]

Is this part of an electronic 5K distributor classed as the ignitor.

[Taz_Rx]

looks like K electronic points, but its a bit different to mine. there was deffinately no internal ignitor in mine, so maybe this is the internal ignitor type!? :fuzz:

[madrolla68]

looks like K electronic points, but its a bit different to mine. there was deffinately no internal ignitor in mine, so maybe this is the internal ignitor type!? :fuzz:

 

Yeah i think it is,the magnetic pickup part is still in the distributor and that is what the triggers the Crane HI-6 which signals the wolf,BUT I'm wondering if this is the igniter.

 

I took it out of the dissy when i fitted the Crane.

[Taz_Rx]

Yeah dare say it would be as it has that screw on it, which would be the hi-voltage negative terminal.

 

Signal should be round the other way too - Electronic points>WOLF>CRANE>coil. Exactly the same as mine but using the Crane Hi6 as an ignitor. Otherwise the Wolf gets a CDI signal. :fuzz:

[madrolla68]

Yeah dare say it would be as it has that screw on it, which would be the hi-voltage negative terminal.

 

Signal should be round the other way too - Electronic points>WOLF>CRANE>coil. Exactly the same as mine but using the Crane Hi6 as an ignitor. Otherwise the Wolf gets a CDI signal. :fuzz:

 

Those screw terminals hook on to the magnetic pickup and then the leads that you see go out from there!

 

So do you think one will be ignition power in and trhe other is trigger out maybe.

[Taz_Rx]

yep.

 

If you wanna set it up like mine so you have ECU controlled ignition then you wouldn't need to re-fit the ignitor. Just re-wire it so the Hi6 IS the ignitor. :fuzz:

 

The Hi6 is obviously already getting a pulse, so just redirect this pulse into the wolf. And remember to change to "ENGINE" configuration to single pulse, not coil negative.

If the pulse isn't strong enough (this where my problems were) adjust the "Trigger voltage level", and then if its still too weak close up the points air gap.

[Taz_Rx]

oh and you need a capacitor across the 2 wires. I'll post you one for free. :fuzz:

[madrolla68]

oh and you need a capacitor across the 2 wires. I'll post you one for free. =)

 

Hey listen,mine wont run off coil neg it runs off a trigger wire from the HI6 now so maybe just need to reconfigure the ecu.

 

Least i think thats how it is,if i put the pickup on coil neg it kills the spark.

 

Have you still got oil cooler and lines :fuzz: :P

 

MAtt

[Felix]

Yep, thats the ignitor from the internal ignitor type electronic dizzys.

 

The two wires out of the ignitor attached to either side of the coil. I can't remember which wire went to -ve and +ve as I don't have my one anymore.

[Taz_Rx]

Yeah still go that oil cooler.

 

Hey listen,mine wont run off coil neg it runs off a trigger wire from the HI6.....

 

But this would still have to attache to the ECU coil neg wire yeah?

 

If you change the engine config to single pulse, you need to have a signal out (to ignitor) as well as just the reference pulse in.

 

Coil neg just take this refernece pulse to fire the injectors and lets the ignition (HI6) do its own thing.

[madrolla68]

Yeah still go that oil cooler.

 

 

 

But this would still have to attache to the ECU coil neg wire yeah?

 

If you change the engine config to single pulse, you need to have a signal out (to ignitor) as well as just the reference pulse in.

 

Coil neg just take this refernece pulse to fire the injectors and lets the ignition (HI6) do its own thing.

 

can't remember now,when you say a signal out (is that the same as out of the magnetic pickup internally into the ignitor then out to ecu then to coil????)

 

OH man I'm confused now.

 

$50 for cooler hey

 

Matt

[Taz_Rx]

Just think of your HI6 as an ignitor. Forget anything else it can do for the moment.

 

You only need 1x ignitor, regardless of setup.

 

Running coil neg the ECU only really needs a pulse to tell it RPM, and fire injectors accordingly.

 

To run single pulse (ECU controlled) ignition setup - The reluctor pickup (magnet) is wired direct to the ECU (ground and trigger in 1 - pins 27 & 28), instead of the HI6. The ECU then still uses this pulse as an RPM reference to fire injectors. Difference is the ECU can then advance or retard the outgoing ignition pulse to the ignitor. In your case this ignitor would be the HI6 (instead of the M&W I'm using) which just happens to be CDI. The only reason you need to use an ignitor in this setup is because the ECU pulls the coil to ground. If you didn't use one, the full neg discharge of the coil would go through the ECU and blow it up. Think of it this way - An ignitor is just a 'fast switching' EARTHING RELAY.

 

So you don't need the one pictured. :no2: Chuck it in the bin....or light the stove! :y:

In either of the above cases your HI6 is doing the job that the stock ignitor would normally do.

 

Give me a call tonight when you finish work if you want.

 

Will PM you about oil cooler tonight or something, as I should have the clutch prices by then too. :yes:

[Taz_Rx]

Right, firstly check on the dizzy to HI6 wiring AS IT IS NOW to get the polarity of the dizzy output. You know what your *MAG+* and *MAG-* are on the HI6 end, so mark these across onto the dizzy.

 

Dizzy + (pulse) > ECU TRIGGER IN 1 (brown/white) - pin 28

Dizzy - > ECU TRIGGER GROUND (blue/green) - pin 27

Use a capacitor ACROSS the wires. I will supply this to you FOC. :bash:

 

So that has the ECU getting a pulse.

 

Now signal out.

 

ECU IGNITION 1 (red {in 6 core sheilded}) - pin 32 > HI6 MAG +

ECU IGNITION GROUND (blue/sheild {in 6 core sheilded}) - pin 31 > HI6 MAG -

 

Wiring from HI6 to coil remains as is.

 

So all you have done with the above is connect the ECU between the signal and the HI6. This then give the ECU to ability to adjust timing.

 

IMPORTANT THINGS TO DO BEFOR STARTING:

 

1, Disconnect the HI6 tacho output from ECU coil neg wire.

2, "ENGINE" configuration should be on 4Cyl/TrigCrankSingle/Inj2Bank/IgnDist

3, Bump up timing from 20*BTDC (or where ever you have it set) to 60*BTDC. This give you 60* to play with

4, Go into TRIGGER>TRIGGER DEG BTDC and set to 60*. This can be set anywhere you want as long as its matched up here. Wolf recommend 60* as it give you a god scope for tuning, and hey we will never need any more than 60*!!! :dance:

The recommended Trigger point is 60 Degrees Before Top Dead Center. This gives the ECU the trigger

point for the most accurate ignition timing, and as much ignition advance as users will require.

The Trigger Deg BTDC will determine the absolute maximum advance that you can set in your

ignition map.

For example, if you set the Trigger Deg BTDC to 30, the maximum ignition timing that the ECU will be

able to deliver to the engine is 25 Deg. Please allow 5 Degrees of engine rotation. If you set the

Trigger Deg BTDC to 60 Deg, you can use up to 55 Deg of ignition timing. This is enough for even

the most eager tuners.

6, turn off anything that relates to Coil Neg.

 

To set timing....

Set the Cranking Ignition Timing to 0°BTDC.

Crank the engine with a timing light on the crank, taking note of the timing position. The timing mark may be

either before or after Top Dead Center, (TDC). To make sure the display shows the user the correct Ignition

Timing, the display must show the same crank angle the timing light is showing. Since the Cranking

Ignition Timing is set at 0° BTDC the timing light should show 0° BTDC.

If it is not 0°BTDC, you should either adjust the Trigger Degrees BTDC point, or move the Input Trigger

Sensor.

The Cranking Ignition Timing can now be set to an appropriate value for the type of engine being installed.

 

Think that about covers it. Call me if you get stuck. :)

[madrolla68]

Right, firstly check on the dizzy to HI6 wiring AS IT IS NOW to get the polarity of the dizzy output. You know what your *MAG+* and *MAG-* are on the HI6 end, so mark these across onto the dizzy.

 

Dizzy + (pulse) > ECU TRIGGER IN 1 (brown/white) - pin 28

Dizzy - > ECU TRIGGER GROUND (blue/green) - pin 27

Use a capacitor ACROSS the wires. I will supply this to you FOC. :bash:

 

So that has the ECU getting a pulse.

 

Now signal out.

 

ECU IGNITION 1 (red {in 6 core sheilded}) - pin 32 > HI6 MAG +

ECU IGNITION GROUND (blue/sheild {in 6 core sheilded}) - pin 31 > HI6 MAG -

 

Wiring from HI6 to coil remains as is.

 

So all you have done with the above is connect the ECU between the signal and the HI6. This then give the ECU to ability to adjust timing.

 

IMPORTANT THINGS TO DO BEFOR STARTING:

 

1, Disconnect the HI6 tacho output from ECU coil neg wire.

2, "ENGINE" configuration should be on 4Cyl/TrigCrankSingle/Inj2Bank/IgnDist

3, Bump up timing from 20*BTDC (or where ever you have it set) to 60*BTDC. This give you 60* to play with

4, Go into TRIGGER>TRIGGER DEG BTDC and set to 60*. This can be set anywhere you want as long as its matched up here. Wolf recommend 60* as it give you a god scope for tuning, and hey we will never need any more than 60*!!! :dance:

 

6, turn off anything that relates to Coil Neg.

 

To set timing....

 

 

Think that about covers it. Call me if you get stuck. :)

 

Ok man cheers,hey what microfarads does cap have to be.

[Taz_Rx]

The one I'm using is 250v 0.22uF but something around that should do.

 

Hey do you want me to send you an ignition map!? :bash: