aaron001au Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 as it says above how do u remove them and if u could give me a few pics that would b nice ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love ke70 Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 which control arms? give us a vague location at least... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KE70's are cool Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 I'm sure he means the front ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love ke70 Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 in that case, unbolt everything, wrangle the strut and sway bar out of it, back the castor rods off and it should come out... what part are you having trouble with? not something i would suggest removing just for fun, can be a prick to get back together... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aaron001au Posted February 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 in that case, unbolt everything, wrangle the strut and sway bar out of it, back the castor rods off and it should come out...what part are you having trouble with? not something i would suggest removing just for fun, can be a prick to get back together... yeah the front ones and naa i have a parts car i was going to pull it out of as mine is bent or would it just be easyer to buy a new one ???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love ke70 Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 may aswell use what you already have :P once you get under and have a look, its not that hard. if you get stuck anywhere, throw a photo up and say, how the f@$k do i get this bit off... couple of tips. first thing, is mark where the castor rod is wound up to. this is the rod that runs from the control arm towards the front of the car, big nut on the end of it, near the radiator, this pulls the whole setup towards the front, back that off so that it isnt pulling it towards the front, but make sure its marked so you can put it back where it started. you can do it without back this off if theres not too much castor wound in, but it can be very difficult to get it into the new arm when you ahve to try and pull the whole lot forward so i would suggest doing it. probably gonna need a wheel alignment once you done anyway so eh. second thing, undo the two big bolts that hold the whole strut down, and then get a long pole, insert it from the front over the control arm and under the bottom of the car, and get someone to lever the lower control arm down, while you pull the strut out of the way. either that, or it may move easier with the swaybar unbolted and already pulled out, just depends whether the swaybar will come out, or if you will need to do a similar thing with that to get it out. then just unbolt it from the crossmember and use a thin nail punch so you don't damage the bolt to get it out, and you should be sweet :) obviously not gonna be this easy the first time you do it, and depending on your resources and space to work, but you should get on without too many dramas if your nifty with a ratchet and think about what you doing :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bLinded_ Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 I removed mine w/out backing off the castor rods and didnt really have any trouble when intsalling the Corona arms. Deffinately will need to get a wheel allignment though if you do any mucking around with LCAs ie. Changing lengths. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love ke70 Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 yeah you may be right blinded, mine was running RA60 struts a 1g and we were trying to make the prick handle, had as much castor as we could get i think. can't remember, was a while ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 yeah you may be right blinded, mine was running RA60 struts a 1g and we were trying to make the prick handle, had as much castor as we could get i think.can't remember, was a while ago don't bother with ke70 arms, throw in some xt130 ones and cop some better handling, they bolt in the same but a bit longer = camber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love ke70 Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 adjustables shit all over any of those items :) found a very nice looking set designed for ae86 and ke70 rally cars, just gotta try find them again :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DearmanKE Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 don't bother windings the caster arm out, just unbolt it directly from the control arm there are 2 14mm nuts under neath the arm which bolt directly to it. Under the end of the arm where it meets the strut there will be 2 17 mm bolts which hole the steering arm to the strut, take these out. on the end of the steering arm that attatches to the tie rod end there is a ball joint, you will need to undo the nut and use a hammer or ball joint seperater to get the steering arm off there (replace the control arm and steering arm at the same time, chances are if ur LCA is bent ur steering arm isnt in good nick either) undo the swaybar link to the control arm, 10mm i think. and then undo the main 17mm bolt that holds the control arm to the chassis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love ke70 Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 that works getting it out, but if its hard to get back in you may still need to unwind it. bearing puller works well on the balljoints as hitting them with a hammer can damage the thread, even with the nut on, as they are a fine pitch you can crush the threads, or just destroy the top of the castelated nut. hows progress anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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