Lexxi[ke35] Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 So it only seems to happen when I'm in heavy traffic and trying to keep up to speed with everyone and when I change to second But basically I change to second, put my foot down, nothing happens it makes a low whirring noise, apparently a bit of smoke comes out my exhaust and then it suddenly kicks in and i lurch forward, then continue on as normal. I've been told its a flat spot, but we put a carby kit through it when we first got it and had problems with it so why would it be broken again and what ca I do about it? Thank yous, Lexxi :hmm: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeAE71 Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Sounds to me to be an ignition issue which is similar to what I had in my old KE70. Have you checked or replaced the points lately? How dirty are the contacts on your rotor button or distributor cap? How long since you changed the leads? I fixed mine by cleaning all of the build up off the rotor button and contact points in the distributor cap, cleaned the points and re-adjusted the gapping. It is only a 20 minute job with the right tools. There's a few tips for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lexxi[ke35] Posted April 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Yeah I changed the points not to long ago but haven't checked the distributer cap or rotor button. I think I changed the leads about a year ago but I'm not completely sure, I'll check later. Thanks for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warrenfromtonny Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 is it jumpy under acceleration? if so i don't know what all the technical names are but this is how i would describe what could be going on i had a similar problem. your butterfly valve is sticky due to the bushes on the pivots ends been worn. these are not always suplied in tune up kits. what happens is when it closes (foot off accelerator) the valve is held shut/ jams due to the worn bushes letting it over rotate away from the open possition, (flooding effect). then when it finally opens the right way a shit load of air jumps down its throat and it launches off the line. the whirring noise is due to the vibrating in the valve, not knowing which way to spin. this was my problem in a 4brl. not sure if this helps and anyone else is welcome to add on, or tear my theory to $#!T. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lexxi[ke35] Posted April 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Hmm... I don't think its jumpy normally, not that I've consciously noticed [although a lot of things that happen I just assume are either normal in an old car or the result of me driving badly and dismiss them instantly.] From what I've noticed its just what I said in my first post, but thanks for the help. :hmm: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drc_ke20 Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 make sure ignition leads are on snugg fit on the dizzy cap,as a slight air gap can make a big difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tas_ae71 Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 is it jumpy under acceleration? if so i don't know what all the technical names are but this is how i would describe what could be going on i had a similar problem. your butterfly valve is sticky due to the bushes on the pivots ends been worn. these are not always suplied in tune up kits. what happens is when it closes (foot off accelerator) the valve is held shut/ jams due to the worn bushes letting it over rotate away from the open possition, (flooding effect). then when it finally opens the right way a shit load of air jumps down its throat and it launches off the line. the whirring noise is due to the vibrating in the valve, not knowing which way to spin. this was my problem in a 4brl. not sure if this helps and anyone else is welcome to add on, or tear my theory to $#!T. hhmm... I'm having this problem, or something similar to it... when its cold if you try and drive it will pop back threw the carb, and will contine to do it if you contine to attempt to drive.. after about 3-4mins its drivable, but is alyways jerky under light throttle and kinda cursing sort if throttle. could very well be two different problems carb is 32/36 weber and motor is 4ac replaced a heap of shit a while back, and converted to electronic dizzy, had a huge spark (would arc a strong blue colour prob 4mm or more, with the old points it would struggle to do maybe 1.5-2mm and was a dull orange). but will check it all as i havent since i put the last motor in prob 12months ago lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KE20rollabus Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 first thing to check would be the accelerator pump is working, and if its poping back through the carby means its too lean. Also check your ignition timing with vac hose off of what ever the manufactuer reccomends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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