yrreda25 Posted May 4, 2010 Report Posted May 4, 2010 Hey Guys, i fairly new here but i would like to know if anybody has done a 7afe to 20V conversion, and what they thought of it? going to build a Ke 35 hardtop, i have two broken 20v silver tops, so i thought either a 7age20v or a 3sg what do you guys think, car will be a club car and build under sched r rules. still have lots of homework to do though. Quote
beerhead Posted May 4, 2010 Report Posted May 4, 2010 Seen it done a few times, there's a wild 7AGE 20V turbo car in NZ and a few others around aus these days. Drama is rod strength, you need some spool moly 7AFE con rods. Run the factory 20V pistons with it and it'll all tie together. Can't remember the timing belt people use off hand though... Quote
Karllos Posted May 5, 2010 Report Posted May 5, 2010 Usually people run porsch 944 timing belts with the 16v head, not entirely sure if it transfers o the 20v but anything with the correct amount of teeth will work. Theres a crap load of info on specialist websites that people have built these engines. Basically if your building one, use forged rods, and if 16v head use 4agze pistons and if 20v use 20v pistons. don't need to do anything to the block. If you retain the standard rods don't go over 6000RPM, you are sure to snap a rod, if you run forged items be happy with 8-9 grand depending on choice of head and cams etc. Seeing as I'm turbo, if i did build up an eninge id run a bigport 4AGZE head with the GZE pistons and spool rods, that would make an engine that could handle 20psi all day everyday :bash: Karl. Quote
yrreda25 Posted May 5, 2010 Author Report Posted May 5, 2010 thanks Guys, guess i am just trying to out if i am going to gain a reasonable amount of torque over the 4age, did plan on some stronger rods because i wan't 8000 , plans looks like this, 20v head / new cams 7afe bottom end with new rods / 20v pistons microtech ecu with coil packs and crank sensor its either that or a 3sg? not sure if the 3sg option is worth the trouble of the 7afe Quote
beerhead Posted May 8, 2010 Report Posted May 8, 2010 $3000 for a beams and 6 speed box these days. If you really want it to hammer I'd do that without hesitation. You get a sweet gearbox in the package too, but they don't fit that well and need some sledge hammer love to make them fit in the tunnel nicely. Microtech's bottom of the barrel for ecu choice IMO, fine on boosted motors, but not that flash on an open throttle motor. They don't run mixed mode tuning, so you can't use MAP for the first 5% of the TPS signal and go to TPS tune after that. Adaptronic is one of the best bang for buck ecu's getting around these days and the features are amazing. I'm doing a GEN2 3S in my KE70 with a W55 box, alot of stuffing around to get it right, I read too much crap and just confused myself. I think there's as many ways to get a 3S in rwd as there are 3S's in rwd ... Quote
Karllos Posted May 8, 2010 Report Posted May 8, 2010 Ues but then you have the larger 3S to fit in the bay, i say stick with the 7AGE make space issues much easier. Having said that if you really want to the 3S will fit just a matter of time and wether you have the tools and or money to be able to get it done! Karl. Quote
beerhead Posted May 9, 2010 Report Posted May 9, 2010 I've got a Gen2 3S in my bay. There is no space issues for the engine what so ever, you just need custom - mounts, intake, extractors, sump, water plumbing. Beery's 3S KE70 With a W5* Box there is no firewall or tunnel mods needed. If I had built my own intake I could have sat the motor back another 3" aswell, with no mods to the firewall, using a 5SFE crank trigger setup to delete the dizzy. A 7AGE is just easier because you don't need as much custom gear. It's a KE35 so its still a big job fitting an A motor IMO. Quote
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