Karllos

Excuse the late reply. All round 16x8 +20 offset. Its just how the front sit factory, have that little extra track. Also, updates Sooo after about, ohh lets say 7 months of having no real useable 3rd gear/gearbox/ engine mounts.. I HAVE MY E58 FITTED Took one night to put it apart, half a day to get it seated in on the next day, and then about 4ish+ hours each night after work getting everything to fit. Drove her Thursday, started the Friday night a week before! So the LSD is amazing, the clutch has a uhm positive engagement and new solid-ised (term used loosley, urethane'd) front and rear engine mounts. Over all so happy with it all, usual little teething issues, but alas will be at attendance at one of Adelaide's largest car shows, All Japan Day! Customary pic, with bonnet off! Here's a couple from Facebook. Being able to know, that I can use the entire stretch of road, and know what the road ahead brings! Is a fantastic feeling! So, a little snippet.

I haven't posted here for, I don't know how long. (No love for the 112 :( ) But. Compare a 4AGE. To my 7AFTE. 4AGE- with some work done to it. Take Bugz' example = 96kw 7AFTE - MY personal car = 105KW Tell me again how an FE head is good for more power?!

lol.. Late response, don't get on here very often :P Ahh I actually bought these off a company that trades through Ebay, they are not a bad quality rim by any means and still really light for the size. I paid, technically... $400 for the rims, but postage to my door was $480 something I think. Plus I get decent deals on tyres, Gotta love contacts :D but around $600-$800 for tyres, and good ones too. :D thanks mate, probably did, I only just work down the road, tend to go there for lunch haha There will be more updates, pending some work.. Gotta swap out my gearbox asap lol

Fark been a while since ive been on here! Place to get the gasket, Subaru!! Ask for a B4 liberty Primary tirbo gasket, EXACTY what you will need! With my personal experience is to get another manifold made up and with a larger more readily available turbo. If I add it up with out the stuffing round between manifolds and getting the right parts (aka the oil drain) made up properly my turbo and manifold would have only cost me approx. $1500. Add a couple hundred for a dump pipe and another $150 for the correct drain and oil feed lines, and you will be laughing! If you are still running the standard replacement then my guess would be that it is not going to last very long, Mine lasted 3 months with me :( Ive sent you a PM to remind you to look here to hahah Hope this helps any questions you can find me loitering around here Twincam

8" there bud!

nomingly nom nom!

Welll.... I think Il let the Pictures do the talking ^_^ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . :wub:

If I can refer you to this thread... This particlar 7AGTE makes 500hp aka 386kw at the wheels on 27psi 7AGTE MACHINE That is basically forged rods, forged pistons, stock 20V blacktop head.. He has done another engine build now with more work.. But that figure was on a fairly basic setup Just thought id put it out there, with his entire setup though, with supporting mods it wouldn't work out cheap lol As far as I know it works out about .5:1 higher than what pistons you have used.. EG: 8.5:1 equals 9:1 ish.. I may be incorrect

;) right there with ya man!

So received 2 today other 2 are between Melb and Adel so hopefully tomorrow :D Offset is +20 Sit PERFECTLY on the rear, front however.. 0_0

soo a little late on the update.... All is now well! Brakes are good after a couple bleeds :) After the wheel bearing shat itself, taking out the hub disc pads and the cv joint hahah Braided clutch line is waiting to be installed also.. These rims are on their way, Grey center not black :D 3

Stirling technically speaking :P Thought it was you when you pulled up, but was gonna ask if you were on the forums :P

Clean Nissan NX-R SR20DE Price: $5000 Location: South Australia Call 0421 716 288 Parts: - Car Cover $160 - 16 inch performance wheels $600 - Dunlop sport maxx tyres 205/45 R16's $700 - Whiteline sway bars front and rear - Whiteline strut braces front and rear - Kyb shocks and king springs - Superpro nolathane bushes throughout - New DBA front slot rotors $350 - New ebc pads(front) $180 - QFM pads(rear) $100 - Extractors with magnaflow high flow catalytic converter - Twin tip exhaust on the back - K&N Panel filter - Short shift kit - Trust gear knob - Isotta wheel - Air intake is slightly different - Nistune realtime ecu tuning $1600 - Pioneer deck - Sony front speakers 260 watt - Sony rear speakers 300 watt - 2 amps both 1800 watts - 2 800 watt pioneer subs - New Xtreme heavy duty clutch $700 has not even done 5000 km and more to tell u had oil and oil filter changed every 5000 km with out fail just had a service $300 belts and hose and rocket cover gasket done stock stuff comes with car too Pictures:

Ohh and piccies of what has recently been done.. :D AND this would be the old manifold against my new Kelway... can't believe the $200 difference between the both.. guess which one cost more?!

Yeah sorry i under stood the dash 8 thing haha just a coincidence that it was the same number lol I have done an oil flow test and it returned about half of what it should with the original line. Have upgraded to a -4 speedflow line, makes a big difference :D Now for a 5/8ths drain to be made up when I fix my collapses wheel bearing and She'll be back to good order :) In other news...... I pulled my front left apart this morning, as you do jack it up put stands under lower, start work.. I go to check the wheel bearing by moving the wheel... The entire wheel and disc moves by at least 2in!! So my wheel bearing is fackered lol getting that swapped round now. Go to start pulling everything of undo the wheel nuts off with the wheel, and as I took the rim off, out falls a bug nut. Thinking to myself the only bug nut that is there is the shaft nut! And so it was, but with the end of the shaft still connected! In conclusion change your wheel bearings because it will have detrimental effects to other parts of your car! New wheel bearing, new cv joint, new discs and pads (both sides) and there ya go, hopefully good as new

Not entirely sure about the restrictor but it is on the list of things to ask when I go to pick the turbo up As for the drain internal diameter would have been about 8mm where as it is rated for a minimum of 16mm!! So Bill from A.T.S says thats where the issue lies, will talk to him about a restrictor as well, but in saying that the bearings are fine so... will have to suss it all out.

Well a small and somewhat irrate update.. THE GOOD: Taken my existing manifold off for Kelway to get the position of the turbo all matched up should be done in a week and a bit THE BAD: When I took my turbo off i noticed the compressor wheel was hard to spin and stopped immediately after i had let go.. knew this wasn't exactly good and went to recheck it Monday, was even worse that it was before.. so took it down to Adelaide Turbo Services, and asked them to look at it, basically said nahh thats not right, but Bill was not there so he couldn't give me a definitive answer.. What gives me the shits is its not even 9 months old and its already knackered!! Plus side though still under warranty! Soo got the word back from Turbo Services, pretty summarised but effectively the rear seal has blown as a result of excess oil bypass or something similar and as such a larg amount of carbon build up has gotten into the inner workings of the turbo, aka the bearings the shaft the well everything!! So I'm still not sure whats going on with warranty but I'm sure as hell I don't wanna pay for it... 9 month old turbo and its knackered already!! Total bullshit.. The good thing about it is I gave it all to a workshop to fix and put it all together with proper specs.. so they can pay for the stuff up. I went down there, yesterday and saw the turbo its not in good shape!! Massive layer of black hard carbon build up on the heat shield, apparently oil is pooling in the turbo and can't drain away quick enough so the rear seal has worn away and has let exhaust carbon through into my turbo. The rear exhaust wheel is completely white! I mean like starch white. He says its not under warranty as Garrett hasnt had a fault with the turbo, so its either down to me or the workshop I paid ALOT of money to put it all together and make sure everything would be able to cope with the upgraded size and capacity of the new turbo.. They obviously haven't flow tested ANYTHING!! I took my drain into A.T.S. this morning and straight away he said 'nahh thats crap!' this is about 10mm too small, internal diameter is prob 8mm where as the Min recommended for the GT25 is 16mm.. So he's speaking to the workshop who he told me to go to and sorting everything out All new drain with a plug being welded into the sump, and new breather being attached where my existing drain flows. So all is looking up for my baby, Maybe within the next week get both my Manifold and my Turbo back

Seeing as this it a Toyota Forum... something turbo and yota? :P

Pending new parts being made up as of Friday... I might be in Got to remember that its double demerits on long weekends soo just be careful is what I'm saying :) Karl.

Soo have this knock in the front end of my engine... and no don't suggest CV joints lol its hardly consistent and does it even when there is no power and when the clutch is in... I believe its speed consistent and comes and goes, hardly consistent... Have replaced engine mounts suspension mounts, ball joints, about to do wheel bearings... after that then I guess il have to do Cv Joint/driveshaft... JOY

So wheres these photos?? :blinks:

Decent little package you have there :jamie:

Keen for a meet up... Wont be able to make it if its arvo sunday..

Spotted a white Twink, i belive to be 200Boy :blinks: A White FX i also believe to be Bugz ;) and a Red Twink with a blacktop :) Ohh and a maroon VT :)

Strut mounts and top mounts would be different, having said i wouldnt be surprised if the springs themselves fit...take the strut combos apart and see what fits :yes: