Radiators In Adelaide

[simon_van]

Howdy just wondering if any one knows of a good place in Adelaide to buy a new radiator for a 4k that is not gonna kill the bank balance? cheers :yes:

 

simon.

[philbey]

C & C Radiators

18 The Parade W, Kent Town SA 5067, Australia +61 8 8362 2057 ‎

 

I've used him before, he reco'd my Ke20 radiator, price was good, turnaround was less than 24 hours and he was good to deal with.

[simon_van]

okay cheers for that mate, yea i threw my radiator out coz it was leaking like a siv so looking to buy new one. ill ring and ask if he could get one maybe. anyone else have any1?

Edited June 16, 2011 by simon_van

[love ke70]

in future try and hang onto the rad, sometimes they can re-use your tanks, or need the brackets to braize on, and you coulda sold it as scrap metal and got 10 bucks for it from your local metal recycler.

 

your best bet mate is to get on the yellow pages and start ringing around, theres only really 2 good core suppliers anymore, so ringing around will give you an idea of whos not putting as much of a markup on the items...

 

cheers, andy

[ke70dave]

in future try and hang onto the rad, sometimes they can re-use your tanks, or need the brackets to braize on, and you coulda sold it as scrap metal and got 10 bucks for it from your local metal recycler.

 

ding ding ding!

 

old corolla radiators are awesome, in that they are copper (i think copper), at least completely metal.

 

not this alloy, plastic ones that come out on newer cars.

 

unfortunately that means that old corolla radiators cost a fortune compared with new car ones (i got quoted around 280bucks for a brand new ke70 radiator)

 

your best bet i reckon would be to obtain a decentish condition 2nd hand radiator from here or wreckers, then get it overhauled at a radiator shop.

 

can usually get a radiator off here for about 50bucks.

[love ke70]

copper/brass

aluminium cools better and weighs less, thats why theyre used these days :)

[ke70dave]

alluminium also corrodes better and the plastic end tanks are more susceptible to come appart from alloy core.

 

copper/brass ones are brazed together, also the ones in ke's are (i think) multi row as well, ke70 had 2 rows.

 

you only get 1 row on the new alloy/plastic ones, so that's why they are heaps wider. (as far as i understand)

[simon_van]

okay sweet as, yea i know where i can get a second hand one so ill get on that asap. thanks lads :y:

[philbey]

copper/brass

aluminium cools better

 

Just wondering how you came to that conclusion, Copper has much higher thermal conductivity that aluminium?

 

Alumium rads are probably preferred because they're about half the weight of copper, don't cost near as much and it's easier to production weld than it is to solder.

[love ke70]

the less weight it has the better it will cool.

[luke_ke]

the less weight it has the better it will cool.

 

 

silver is the best thermal conductor of all and its much heavier than aluminium - next best is copper and then brass, then aluminium. the reason that aluminium is used now days is

first of all it is cheaper and secondly the lead based solders used to join up our old radiators where found to be a health hazard in the manufacturing process. Lead is a very poor heat conductor

as well, so basically performance of copper/brass or aluminium radiators (based just on the material used) is very similar ........ :yes:

[love ke70]

maybe based solely on material used it might be similar, but I can assure you, a triple core copper/brass rad in a patrol will only be marginally better than a standard twin core aluminium/plastic one, and yes, thats 45mm vs 32

but then theres ebay complete double core aluminium ones that are thicker than the standard ones and don't cool anywhere near aswell, so maybe it comes down to construction as much as materials

not trying to start a shit fight, just my belief and a number of peoples experiences.

 

cheers, andy

[luke_ke]

aluminium also reacts with water to form aluminium oxide - this layer can easily and quickly build up to more than a couple of mm thick = decrease in efficiency - thats why we use coolants with wetting agents - it helps in sticking the water/coolant onto the surface of the aluminium before it oxidises - so yeah if you use the right coolant and de-mineralised water it could be equal to or better in performance, but make sure you don't use tap water containing chlorine, even small amounts of the chlorine will react with

the aluminium to form aluminium chloride, and when aluminium chloride is exposed to oxygen it forms hydrochloric acid and that can't be good ........ just interesting i guess ... or not

[love ke70]

that is interesting

 

maybe ill have to stop using tap water

 

does the coolant not stop the chlorine reacting with the aluminium?

what do they used in premixed coolants?

[luke_ke]

coolant doesnt stop chlorine reacting with aluminium but coolant will provide a layer of protection usually in the form of a corrosion inhibitor, generally a silicate (silica based) material. Premixed coolants are just coolant ( and demineralised/de ionised water -

so either buy demineralised water or leave your tap water out over night - the chlorine will evaporate quite quickly - either that or boil it - i just leave my water out over night if i need do any cooling system work - that way the protective layer the coolant provides wont be eaten away by the

eventual formation of acid caused be using straight tap water with chlorine ..... but then again we are talking about pretty long term slowly developing issues i guess ....