Kezzar Posted July 17, 2011 Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 (edited) i am changing my standard 4kc carb with a weber 32/36 dgav, and I'm looking at the engine bay of my ke70 wondering on how I'm going to go about installing my carb, what has to go from the engine bay, what holes are safe to block ect ect and what size hosing ill need buy for the fuel line. but i look at this one component and think wut? ill post a diagram pic with my concern, then a blank canvas where you may draw your opinion or how you went about this component and hoses when u installed a Weber, otherwise when you installed your Weber what parts and hoses were useless in the installation of your weber carburetor. I'm amature as all shit with this stuff but your help is overly appreciated. thank you, kezzar Edited July 17, 2011 by Kezzar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted July 17, 2011 Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 (edited) Take it all out. You need to leave the pcv pipes. Both go from the rocker cover, one to the air cleaner and one to the base of the carby. You'll need the vac advance line that goes from your distributor to the base of the carby also. Make sure you don't take out the boost release hose that goes from your manifold to the brake booster. Block off any that run to the thermostat housing. I used a rubber end cap and hose clamp for those three. The fuel line should be standard but depending on the fitting on the webber you may need to run 3/8 fuel line from the fuel pump. Good luck. Edited July 17, 2011 by GJM85 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted July 17, 2011 Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 Oh and once you're done and its running right, loose that pollution gear diagram... :happy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kezzar Posted July 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 kk so my understanding now is block of Canister(or do i take it out?), block of BVSV, put mini breathers on the hose coming from the rocker head since the new filer doesnt facilitate for them anymore, connect fuel line and connect dissy line to carb?, btw if this minuses the amount of hoses needed i do not have a choke on my carb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueKsev Posted July 17, 2011 Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 Use the manual choke from inside the car man. When i put my 32/36 i got rid of all the vacuum hoses and pollution gear except the one that comes off the dizzy. So that, and the fuel line is all thats connected to the carby. After that i plumbed the breather off the tappet cover and the line that comes off the charcoal cannister into the air filter and it was perfect :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kezzar Posted July 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 Thanks heaps should have enough confidence to do it now seems so straight forward thanks heaps fellas Cheers,kerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 Obviously I kept the green lines, the distributor vacuum and the charcoal cylinder, and blocked the red ones. That's why they are coloured like that. Then keep the brake booster and PCV steup on the tappet cover as suggested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kezzar Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 will there be much increase in power or throttle response once the carb is in and running perfect? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Nope- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Well, there will be, but really you should pop in a better cam and a set of extractors with a free-flow exhaust to make the most of it. Getting it jetted just right is the important part, or it will have flat spots and chew juice for no power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kezzar Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Well, there will be, but really you should pop in a better cam and a set of extractors with a free-flow exhaust to make the most of it. Getting it jetted just right is the important part, or it will have flat spots and chew juice for no power. i got the extractors and a good pretty good exhaust system so i guess ill just have to see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Good start! Drive it for a week or two & solve any initial problems, then have it checked on a dyno for mixture and see how the jetting is. Do some acceleration times when you're driving around before you fit it and afterwards to compare. Some nice long hill that really makes the stock carb work hard from 20kph upwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twinspinna Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 would it run shit if it was an electronic dizzy an the two hose ports off the dizzy were looped and the one on the weber was blocked off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kezzar Posted July 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2011 its in and working, pretty dodgy looking, but starts good, all i need to do is bracket the acceleration cable so get a more accurate and steady idle :) cheers for your help so much fellas :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted July 24, 2011 Report Share Posted July 24, 2011 its in and working, pretty dodgy looking, but starts good, all i need to do is bracket the acceleration cable so get a more accurate and steady idle :) cheers for your help so much fellas :) :dancetall: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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