Ben-89 Posted September 21, 2011 Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 Ah Le Mans Toyota, must've been bought in Footscray :) Good you have those books then! From my understanding as long as the rust hasnt penetrated through the metal (affecting its integrity) it should be passable. If anything at least try to look like you have attended to it maybe by putting some touch up paint on it. So it looks like an attempted repair. Maybe the bloke who is doing the welding/repairs can do these little imperfections? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kid-Ae Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 Well that bloke called me today and put things on the backburner because he just got some situation altering news, which is cool. Found more rust, drainage holes on drivers side doors have rusted through, passenger ones are sweet Should be a straightforward fix up, enough 'metal' left to have a crack at rust converting and tidying up. Oh, managed to scrape about 3kg of dirt fron the front guards today.. didn't know they filled up so bad! Fitted a 550cca battery today, so much better than having to jumpstart it every time! Next purchase is a pressure washer. Decided i'm going to take panels off and make sure they are clean and completely rust free. Going to bog up the rear guards i've decided, they're not too bad and I should get away with it if I do it right. Dad's keen on showing me how to use his angle grinder so stay tuned folks, I could either end up missing a finger or with well cut-out rust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben-89 Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 Sam do your self a favour, pop off the door cards and with a paint brush and vacuum clean up any dirt/leaves/dust etc which has accumilated. Simply poking through the holes shifts the rubbish else where... Give yourself a good couple of hours when its warm and do it. Then get some bitumen based body deadener in can form and go to towm on coating inside the doors, you'll notice youve reached the bottom of the drain holes when the body deadener starts coming out. Roughly $12.00 $15.00 a can but money well spent :y: Do yourself a favour and ring this bloke up, explain whats going on or send him some pics of the rust and see what he says. I had a very good experience so I recommend him :y: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kid-Ae Posted September 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 So sent her in for pads and shoes.. Get a call, "oh so your rotors are undersized, front hoses are f'd and rear wheel cylinders are leaking. It's okay we can fix it" "alright how much?" "$600" "..." So uhh crap...... What do I do??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kid-Ae Posted September 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 Alright! Scoured eBay, decided that wheel cylinders will cost me about $33 posted for the pair, front hoses about $65 and ill try find some good used rotors and get them machined. May pay someone to do it all though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kid-Ae Posted September 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2011 Ordering brake hoses and rear wheel cylinders next week. Might just go through eBay, cheapest option. If anybody has front '55 rotors that are roadworthy, shoot me a pm with a price! EDIT: Just brought the hoses from eBay :) Tomorrow i'm going to go buy a trolley jack to make lifting the car easier, along with some proper rubber wheel chocks. Benefit of having the car on solid hard dirt is that i can mount the wheel chocks to the ground with long old tent pegs to make them secure :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kid-Ae Posted September 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2011 (edited) P.S. Convinced Dad to let me keep it, required an increase in board per week but it's a small price to pay Thinking about taking the front qtr panels off and cleaning out from underneath them today. Must be putrid under there! Going to keep hacking at the rust and now that I've rust-dissolved it, time to rust convert and start looking into ways of patching up the holes.. Is fibreglassing not too difficult? Was thinking of prep-washing all the areas needing repairs, then making up the resin and fibreglass matting to see how good a shape I could get. For anyone interested in some easy cashmoney, I'd be willing to pay for cut & shut repairs I even have sheetmetal here ready to go. Oh and if anyone wants some standard ke55 wheels, they're all yours if you come get them. I have too much shit and needa move some of it along Edited September 27, 2011 by ROLLA'BOY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben-89 Posted September 28, 2011 Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 (edited) Didnt you see my post with panelbeaters number?? If you have all the materials ring him. Believe me he is very good at what he does and he did a great job on my 92. He's a top bloke to talk to and you may work something out. Especially if the car is original to begin with :) Edited September 28, 2011 by "The Mint KE70" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kid-Ae Posted September 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 Might just give him a bell. Also waiting on a quote from Sam_Q on here regarding the work. Went deep into the drivers rear guard. Whole thing is f@$ked. Passenger one is an easy clean up. Infact, everything drivers side looks ready to rust to pieces, everything passenger side is fine... Got the front guards off, cleaned out the 65543164kg of dirt and gunk and then the weather turned nasty before I got any further. Front guards look rust free, will be giving them a protective coating underneath when the sun decides to stay out. Damn I wish I had a solid garage to work in... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kid-Ae Posted September 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 Plan of attack over next fortnight: - Attack passenger side of car rust repairs as these are a lot easier than drivers side, and a good way to practice my fiberglass skills - Wait for parts to arrive from eBay. Got everything needed for the brakes on order except the front rotors and rear wheel cylinders , yet to check exact bore size for the cyls. - Mend as much rust as possible to a state where it can be salvaged. Found some metal plate I can use for welding in - Locate rust free drivers side doors and a bonnet, switch trims over. ??? Proft? - Learn all about bog removal.. I don't mind people using bog to cover holes, but using bog on top of rusted metal just doesn't do it for me.. Going to keep removing panels and cleaning everything. If it's clean, it'll stay that way for the short term at least... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhmills Posted September 30, 2011 Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 I've spoken to a few mechanics and the blokes who do all my roadworthies; in terms of rust, if the car has any, it's unroadworthy. I guess it all depends how severe and how well hidden it is, also how much of a hardass your roadworthy guy will be. I've also heard from a reliable source that the price of RWC have gone from $99 to $220 now. An attempt to prevent cars from being passed. They also take photos now. I don't think this helps, but thought I'd let you know what I know. Cheers, Jake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kid-Ae Posted October 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 My mechanic charges $99, I had one done recently on another car and he's not changing his price unless he has to. I'm sorting all the rust out, I want a Corolla without any (yeah, should choose a different model car lol) but the mechanic says if it's not structural or flaking he'll pass it, simply told me to primer the surface rust and spray putty any grooves. I'm not going to get crazy with it but if he's happy, i'm happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben-89 Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 $99.00 is good, after all thats just to book it in. But $220.00 is just ludicrous, people will just find else where if it comes to that and so they should. Money for nothing, especially if you know the car is roadworthy and or standard but in good order. Then there will probably be a modified car tax, and then another tax on top if its over 25 years old. The more you try to keep an honest old car they road the tighten the screws even more :n: ROLLABOY keep doing what your doing, if the mechanic is happy just go along with it :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kid-Ae Posted October 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 I'm trying my best.. When the weather improves Dad's going to give me some help grinding the rear quarter panels out and cleaning it all up so I can get somebody to weld new metal in place. He's a pro with a grinder, I'm okay with them but i'd much rather he do it because it'll be cleaner and if he f@$ks up, he can pay for whatever needs fixing Been using a dremel bit to tidy up surface rust around the car, just for tidiness sake. Next week I'm spending a full day going through all my tools and organising them. Everything is a shambles and if I want to do this car properly, I need the proper tools put in a place they can be used. Will be packing everything else up and throwing it out at the tip. Still on the hunt for doors and bonnet, much easier replacing them with rust free ones than attempting to fix these. Happy to drive a mismatch colored car around Had a crack at cleaning some more dirt out today, spent an hour with a thick brush cleaning the sections underneath the guards, think the car lost a lot of weight in the process. Any thoughts, ideas and/or suggestions are welcome. Anyone keen to have a look at the car and tell me it's a POS, please do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kid-Ae Posted October 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 UPDATE! Car is naked up front. Took off guards, beaver and front bumper. Wire brushed the surface rust in the guards and hit them with rust converter and sprayed with chassis black to keep the rust away, It's a little bumpy so going to spray putty it to smooth it out. Cleaned and wire brushed the frame under guards/around wheel arches then washed and sprayed with chassis black. Removed the headlights and horns and will give that section a sand and spray tomorrow. Going to chase up some ke30 bars because the other ones are in crap condition and it'll look a lot neater without that stupid metal section that gets used as a spacer on the 55's.. If there is anyone in the area that is bored/free, come help me pulling things off and fixing stuffs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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