Jrad

Was hoping Evan G, the god of Carbies popped by. Thanks for that!

Hey guys, hopefully a quick question. Have a 32/36 (or 36/32, whatever) Weber carby. Each time I hit the accelerator, fuel comes from where I'm pointing to in the picture. What would be required to fix this? Have no idea when it comes to carbies. Would it need a gasket/rebuild, if so, do Bursons supply this? Thanks.

Oh cool, shame to see a neglected 86! Have you got some plans for it? I'm planning a ground up resto of this. Has no engine or gearbox, so I'll be doing everything slowly and right and the way I want it. Probably build it over the next year or so.

So uhh... I'm just going to leave this here ;)

Longchamps for sale. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280984286698

Yeah, still can't decide. Longchamps are so nice, but these ones... maybe not for me. If I can get longchamps in my dream offset/sizes I WILL MAKE THEM FIT. Been driving it around, tyre keeps scrubbing mid-way (because they're stretched) on the rear wheel arch when I hit a bump as I'm too low for standard arches, lol. The rears are bald anyway so not fussed. Wheels are for sale (not officially, but for Rollaclub members that see this) so PM me offers if you're keen. Otherwise they'll go on Ebay in a couple weeks I guess.

Update time! ZZE is on the road now - all finished and going well. Onto the main car. Picked up some wheels the other day. Another favourite SSR Longchamps. Genuine Speed stars in 14x7 (I think) in +8 offset including some average tyres. 175/65 and 165/70 I think they are. Bit of stretch but not much. Odd sizes.. who does that? Fitted them up... and one side fouled the coil-over. Turns out it seems I have either a bent stub axle or the coil-over is a bit off (they did look average when I bought them - home made job) My other wheels are 0 offset so I never had that problem. So running a small spacer on the passenger side. Anyway. A picture is worth a thousand words. Still a great looking wheel, but I'm not sure. Willing to sell the whole set if a good offer arises. I'll probably put them on eBay in a few weeks once uni is finished. Thoughts on these? Don't know if I want to keep them. they don't sit as nice as my others. Trades for some old school 14x7.5 or 8, 0 offset rims anyone? hehe.

Edited that bit for you, hehe.

That's cool :) The more accurate the better, I was just going for the basic of the basic that ALWAYS gets asked. Also cleaned up/edited a few bits.

If this is not an appropriate thread - mods feel free to delete it. If it has been replicated, also feel free. Also feel free to move this, sticky it, re-use it, whatever. The more info out there the better. This is designed to be an all-in-one thread, for the noobs, with the first questions that are asked. EVERY TIME. There are not specific details (for example, 4kc engine - 1.3L) you can google that. Reining from the KE70 Facebook group, with help from a few others (Reed) here is the guide for noobs with a KE70. Let's get rolling! First - determine if you have an AE71 or a KE70. Easiest way to determine this is if you have a 4AC engine or a 4KC engine. 4AC is an AE71, 4KC is a KE70. Engine: Engine direct bolt ins for a KE70: 3kc, 4kc, 5kc, 7kc (with sump modifications) A 2T engine will also fit They came standard in south african spec corollas. For this to bolt in you will need the mounts and crossmembers from the standard T powered car which are hard to find. Also, all T powered Toyota vehicles use a steering box, not rack and pinion, so doing this conversion with the T crossmember will result in loss of rack and pinion steering. This means most people tend to use an ae71 gearbox with a T bellhousing and make their own engine mounts. This avoids other issues with tail shaft splines not being compatible from T motor T 50s to A motor T 50s. Modifying Standard Engines: Easiest way to get a bit of pep out of any of these engines is to add a carby, weber or dellorto, 5 speed gearbox and extractors. There's not much else you can do. A lot of people also put on an electronic distributor. peaople generally don't bother spending heaps of money on a 3K/4k motor or 4ac. Because by the time you do - you could've put a 4AGE, SR20 or CA18 with relative ease. See: http://www.rollaclub...a_tough_K_motor If you have an AE71, it will come standard with a 4AC engine. These use the same mounts and everything as a 4AGE. It's almost a direct bolt in. If you're going 4age path. You will need an A series T50 gearbox and gearbox mount/crossmember, an AE71 or AE86 engine crossmember, mounts, bellhousing brackets, clutch hydraulics and pedal box. Plus a few other bits. Manual Gearboxes: K50 (5 speed) and K40 (4 speed) gear boxes are paired to K engines. The one exception being the A engine - K 50 gearbox combo from an AE85 or a AE70/AE71 sprinter. These are both overseas models which are are rare in Australia but more common in NZ, SE Asia and Japan. K boxes are good for approximately 150hp and minimal torque. T50 (5 speed) or T40 (4 speed) can be mated to an A series engine (4ac, 4age etc) or a T series engine (2T, 3TC, 2TG, 3TGTE. It is good for around 200hp and minimal torque. Will break with sc and most turbo systems. T50s can also be found in Ta22 celica, T18 corolla, an many other random variations of these models. Any T50/40 from behind a T motor will not accept the same tail shaft as an A series T 50. Otherwise they are practically identical. Shock/brake/coilovers: AE86 coilovers or stuts will bolt into the standard mounts, but you need AE86 steering arms as well for them to work. XT130 Corona struts. These will give you an option to make coilovers with a sleeve kit. Also bigger brake options, etc. etc. Mitsubishi Sigma or Toyota Corona lower control arms will give you negative camber in the front. Rear suspension: VL wagon rear shock absorbers or suzuki sierra fronts will fit. VL are much easier to source, and have a large range of "sports" shocks. The suzuki ones are very, very short. You need to sitting on bump stops in order for these to be of any use. They're short stroke so keep lowered springs captive and won't bottom out. You can use cut AU falcon springs for a harder ride. If you have to ask how to cut a spring, you shouldn't be near a car. And a reputable workshop will not do it, BECAUSE IT IS ILLEGAL. Other options are King Springs, AJPS, TRD, etc. See this thread for more answers before asking: http://www.rollaclub...owering-thread/ KE70s will benefit from strut braces/sway bars etc to stiffen up the body. Stiffening the body is moreso for drift/motorkana etc. Being a 30 year old car, replacing bushes, bearings, and all those suspension components is beneficial. This will dramatically improve ride quality. DO YOUR SUSPENSION BEFORE YOUR WILD ENGINE UPGRADE. Diff options: The stock diff will probably have a whine in it. Seems to be factory, lol. "I really want to drift my new corolla with a 4kc engine in it and no suspension modifications." Weld your diff. This is also illegal. Don't be annoyed when you crash it, what did you expect? There's enough info on youtube and the internet on how to do this. So don't ask. It's very easy to do it yourself. It's horrible to drive daily in, and if you try to catch that amber turn signal at the lights too quick, you could just end up sideways. For those that are serious about diff upgrades. The standard diff doesn't have an available LSD for it. You will need to upgrade to an AE86 rear end know as an "S-series", or a T-18 rear end known as a "T-series". These both have LSD options. Hilux. Skyline, Silvia, Cressida, Corona and various other rear ends have also been fitted. I can't comment on ease or availability, but it CAN be done if you're serious about it. Visual modification: Corollas came out in two variations, pre-facelift (1979-1983) and facelift (1984). Known as flat front and slant-front respectively. There were also numerous other fronts. The rare diesel front end and DX front were also available in other countries. Quad-lights will fit a flat front with minor modification. Cutting the beaver panel just under the lights and bending the metal over. To turn a slant to a flat front you need: 2 guards, bonnet and scuttle (bit between bonnet and windscreen) and of course lights, grill, all those bits. The rad support is also different between the two models, but I think you can make it work. It's all a direct bolt on and off procedure. If you are struggling to find ke70 quad-lights, RT104 corona lights can be used. The mounts on the base will need to be cut, flipped and welded in place to suit the KE mounts. Not hard to do and will fit the KE headlight surrounds, I'm using them. Rust repairs: Expect your KE70 to have rust. In the rear wheel arches, the fuel filler, and along the bottom of the boot, just above the bumper. Other common places is in the firewall, along the edge of the boot opening and the bottoms of the doors and quater panels. Toyota put what looks like a felt strip as a sealant in some of these places. Naturally, it soaked up all the water and rusted away the shell. Generally, you will need to cut out a piece of metal, cut out the rust from the panel, weld it in, rust protect it, fiberglass it, bog it, paint it, and so on. This is a good example of a quick-fix for rust that you can do at home: www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCMeAze56AQ Where can I find parts? eBay : http://www.ebay.com....w=ke70&_sacat=0 Pick-a-part Rollaclub for sale threads. AE86 driving club threads. A hint on buying things. Research what you need first. Please don't post a topic saying "WTB. KE70 springs." then when someone offers you cut springs, you get sore about it. Be specific. "WTB: Lowered KE70 springs. After a set of king springs that will provide me with about a 50mm drop. I think the part number is: KXXX:XXXXX. Similar springs will suffice." Also, don't ask for help doing things illegally. Of course it can be done, but a lot of people will discourage you from doing it in order to save a few $$. We've all run chopped springs, and after going to coils you never look back at the pogo stick with pride. If this hasn't answered your questions, or skimmed over them. Use the search feature. Good places to look for info: http://www.rollaclub...pension-thread/ http://www.rollaclub...-tech-articles/ These are pretty much all the basic questions that newbies ask. Hope it helps :)

Hahaha! definitely should! They actually go pretty hard for a little engine. May as well update. Found this cool image of mine from Toyota winterfest: Very nice! The ZZE is finished, just waiting on a VIV for it. Sorry about the bad photo.

0:41 - you can see a bit more of the flares. I'd say they're fibre-glassed or welded on, then bogged & painted. I'll be keeping an eye on your build. It might be interesting to do one of these conversions. Really - I don't see it being very hard to do. the Commodore engine is actually really easy to work on and relatively cheap.

Apparently this conversion isn't too hard to do. Although, the weight of the commodore engine isn't so great in a forward position for cornering and handling, and it would do well to set it back into the firewall so the weight isn't over the front wheels so much. that's one of the main differences with these conversions and a 4age/sr20. I'd contemplated it, but opted to get a 5k and work that a bit. Have you seen the 1uz V8 corolla? That's pretty wicked. What're you using this for? Drags, burnouts, drifts? It would definitely do all of those! Looks like it should be fun!

Test mounting - couldn't wait! hahaa. New panel was welded on this weekend, btw. As you can see, there's the damage above this wheel.

Scored them off the JDMST forums. Came down from NSW. Paid half price compared to getting them brand new from Work in Japan, and they're in as new condition. I'm excited! haha.