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Posted

hi i am new to the forums as i have recently bought a ke30 with 4k conversion and have been having clutch problems. the clutch wont disengage or let me put it into gear without forcing it and when i do the clutch grabs and jumps forward with the pedal fully depressed, i have tried adjusting the cable the pedal gets tighter but clutch still wont disengage. so today i tried a new cable incase the old one was stretched and still can't get the clutch to disengage the flywheel, is there a specific way of putting the cable on ie: clutch fork first then pedal depressed?? or do i just connest it all so the clutch pedal gets tight?.

i have contacted the previous owner who has owned it since new and has taken maticulous care of it and he informed me the clutch, pressure plate etc are quite new and he can even show reciepts and he said it would be the cable too.

could it be the bearing not releasing? any help much appreciated. :y:

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Posted

go to the firewall, pull the clutch cable. how much does move? 1cm gap is optimal

 

i bought a cheap clutch cable from ebay and i had to make a 1inch space cause it was too long.

Posted

Do what Evan said and by pulling on the cable you'll also be able to see the clutch fork moving.

The worst case scenario would be having to pull the g'box out cause something might have either been put in wrong or has come apart.

Eg - the clutch plate is the wrong way around or the release bearing has come apart from the clutch fork.

Posted

i can pull it out about 2-3 inches with the circlip removed

This is how it should look like at the clutch fork

post-1432-0-75810400-1319456378_thumb.jpg

There should be a cir-clip or something similar on the engine side of the bellhousing. It stops the cable from being pulling into the fork when ever the clutch pedal is depressed.

Posted

go to the firewall, pull the clutch cable. how much does move? 1cm gap is optimal

 

i bought a cheap clutch cable from ebay and i had to make a 1inch space cause it was too long.

 

did u space it out at the firewall end? any pics? and what did ya use?

Posted (edited)

Pics tomorrow, basically it was a inch spacer where the clutch cable goes near the engine

cheers any help much appreciated.

i snapped a cuple of pics of the setup with it all connected but without the tension at the firewall end, i have hose clips and a circlip to pull the tension at the firewall.

 

2hz38dy.jpg

 

 

 

16m0zg4.jpg

Edited by 4ke30
Posted
i can pull it out about 2-3 inches with the circlip removed

 

What can you pull it out with the circlip on? ie, just as you have been driving it. That should only be a cm or so, which will give you an inch or less freeplay on the pedal before it gets hard to push as it works the flywheel.

 

It sounds like a spacer of the right size should get it working.

 

 

Posted (edited)

Firewall

 

 

Edit - That pic of the bellhousing of yours, it looks as if the clutch fork is sitting back a far way unlike mine.

Edited by towe001
Posted
a rubber spacer before cable hole on the bellhousing??

 

In front of the one you have at the firewall in the picture. Basically you space it to hold the outer cable away from the firewall, so you can pull on the outer cable and the circlip moves away from the spacer about 10mm.

 

That 10mm is just enough to let the arm at the bell-housing pull the thrust bearing back off the pressure plate so the bearing doesn't spin all the time. A bit more gap doesn't matter, but too much means the thrust bearing will not push the pressure plate in enough to loosen the clutch plate, which will give the gearbox drag as you change gears. That's why you couldn't get it into gear easily, the pressure plate wasn't releasing far enough.

 

You can feel it in the clutch pedal, the first 10-15mm does nothing as it takes up that freeplay, then it gets stiff as you push the pressure plate in.

 

 

 

 

 

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