GBKE15 Posted December 14, 2005 Report Share Posted December 14, 2005 I swear I have done this kind of thing before even though it doesn't seem like it. This car is kicking my a$$ everytime I get to the next level with it. The exhaust is done and all seems well with the quality. I go to start the car and I have no spark. It's got to be in the distributor/points/rotor/timing area I think. Here's what I have done: I have checked to see if there is a fuse that could be blown and cannot find one. There is 12v at the coil with the key on and 12v at the ignition lead going into the top of the distributor. I have checked and the timing appears to be right. I cannot find any wires that are cooked/loose. Again, this is a 3k going into a ke15. The motor was supposed to be running with a rebuild. Is there something that I am overlooking? Thanks in advance for all of the help once again!!! Right now this thing is still a big ass baby blue anchor that i wearing me out. THanks, Glenn :) :blush: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBKE15 Posted December 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2005 So I was a little frustrated. I did however try doing some searches before posting the above message. I did another search and may have found some relevant thigns to try. Still, any suggestions appreciated. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toycrash Posted December 14, 2005 Report Share Posted December 14, 2005 Engine groundings? Wire ok from dizzy to coil negative? Are u sure points connect when closed? And you are sure it's the ignition you are after... Are u using 2K or 3K carbie? The euro spec 2K and old 3K didnot have the idle stop solenoid, but newer carbies have it... You know what I'm talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBKE15 Posted December 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2005 I am checking on the grounding. I made sure that it was clean before I bolted the ground back to the block. The wire going from the distributor back to the neg side of the coil, check OHMS to make sure that it is not broken? Points seem to be working fine although they were dirty and I cleaned them up a bit with 180 sandpaper. I had a spark tester(?) that goes in the end of your plug wire that you connect to ground and there was no spark. I am using the 3k carb. There is a wire coming off of it that is black with a yellow stripe (I think) that is not connected to anything. To see if it is the distribtor, can I switch the k distributor out for the 3k. Only difference should be the fact that te k is vacume advance without the octane selector, right? I know that dist. was working prior to removing the orig. engine. Thanks for your help toycrash. Also, That is an awesome car you have, checked it out several times. Thanks, Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toycrash Posted December 14, 2005 Report Share Posted December 14, 2005 Thanks mate. First! Connect the carbie wire to battery positive(or originally it goes to alternators relay, see if there is about 5cm wire, that goes nowhere) OR if you have the old engines carbie? From there you can take a plug what replaces the solenoid. And if it still wont start... clean the points(with clean paper or something) and check if they surelly ground the coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBKE15 Posted December 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2005 My thoughts are in the distributor. I think that I may try to swap to the dizzy that I know worked on the k motor temporarily just to see if that is it. The one on the 3k may work fine after I replace the points rotor and cap, however, I think that I would rather try the other non-octane selector type before I spend money on the other stuff just in case. I also want to get the Pertronix ignition instead of points at some point anyway. I think the most reasonable causes for no fire would be the dizzy and the ground to the block. It'll probably be this weekend, but I'll post the findings. Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeys toy[RL] Posted December 18, 2005 Report Share Posted December 18, 2005 get a starlet electronic dizzy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBKE15 Posted December 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2005 All is well!! :) :) I got it started Sunday and even took it for a spin. I swapped in the old k distributor and with a good bit of starter fluid it fired up and ran out very strong. A little bit o smoke in the beginning but it seems that it was because the engine sat for so long. Thanks to everyone that helped out. It looks like I am finally heading in the right direction. Mikey, do you think that the starlet dizzy is a better bet than the pertronix ignitor system. I was thinking of using the coil and the points elimination setup. Thanks, Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeys toy[RL] Posted December 21, 2005 Report Share Posted December 21, 2005 yes, you can get parts form the parts store, and it's tailored to the k engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolla__Boy Posted December 21, 2005 Report Share Posted December 21, 2005 Get two, and send me one over :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeys toy[RL] Posted December 22, 2005 Report Share Posted December 22, 2005 (edited) why extractors are a pain in the ass on american corollas, ESPECIALLY ke1x's this is what you SHOULD do Edited December 22, 2005 by mikeys toy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBKE15 Posted December 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 I found the knocking :wink: sound that I was hearing on startup. The exhaust is hitting the steering box, LHD American setup. The motor mounts seem to be in good shape with no tears or cracks and the motor seems to have a good amount of shake although it goes away with slightly more idle. I'm not sure how much is typical for these motors (3k) and what to expect. The question is "How detrimental is it to bend/hammer/etc the exhaust pipe directly below the steering box to make more clearance. It probably won't take much to clear the box, I just don't know whether to start on the tuning to make sure that the motor isn't "looser" than it should be. I know that any restriction is goign to reduce the performance a little, but I am not sure where to start that will give me the best results. Mikey's right, doing anything exhaust wise on these k sereis here is a paint in the a$$. Hopefully this makes sense, Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted December 31, 2005 Report Share Posted December 31, 2005 you will probably find changing from a K engine to a 3K didn't help, as the 3K block is about 10mm taller. i 've been through a heap of extractor clearance issues with my ke15 over time. i've had a K, 3K, 4K, and 5K in it. fortunately mine is RHD and i don't have to worry about steering box clearance, that would suck. this is what i did to lower the engine on the manifold side to stop my extractors hitting the floor: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeys toy[RL] Posted December 31, 2005 Report Share Posted December 31, 2005 i had to push my engine over 1" to clear the fuel rail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBKE15 Posted December 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2005 Felix, So is that a different mount or did you modify your existing mount. Is it just a shorter bushing? How far will that drop the engine before the oilpan hits the xmember? My supertrapp exhaust came in yesterday, so we'll see how it sounds tomorrow, barring any new years flu tomorrow. Thanks for the help. Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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