Hi all,

 

I recently changed the stereo in the car (new head unit and speakers). A few weeks after this the fuse for the interior light started blowing. Ran a multimeter over it and it is trying to pull 27.5 amps through a 7.5 amp fuse. WTF! :rant:

 

Tried removing the clock and cigarette lighter (on the same fuse) as well as removing the head unit. No change.

 

The really odd part is when the car is on and you turn the parklights on the clock will work, even with no fuse installed.

 

I'm hope that there is someone out there who can give me some ideas as to what it could be, or at least what could be drawing that sort of amps that could cross paths with the interior lights.

 

Thanks

 

m00nee

Edited January 23, 201313 yr by m00nee

What did you tap your power and acc wire on the head unit loom into?

What did you tap your power and acc wire on the head unit loom into?

 

Hi B.L.Z.BUB,

 

Used the original head unit wiring, but ran new speaker wiring. The car came with the factory radio cassette and as far as i can tell the radio wiring does not cross paths with the lights.

 

m00nee

Hmm thats a weird one. The old radio probably didnt draw as much current as the new one, and probably ran off the same power circuit as the interior lights.

I always use the lighter power as Acc in my cars as there is usually a dedicated fuse for it, then you can put a larger fuse in to suit the draw from the stereo.

Hmm thats a weird one. The old radio probably didnt draw as much current as the new one, and probably ran off the same power circuit as the interior lights.

I always use the lighter power as Acc in my cars as there is usually a dedicated fuse for it, then you can put a larger fuse in to suit the draw from the stereo.

 

I expected that the new head unit would draw more power, but realised that the new head unit has a 10 amp fuse, and the car has a 7.5 amp. I will add that the stereo has been working the whole time, it's just that the issue started after i changed it.

Make sure that you have the earth connected to an actual grounding point and not to an illumination source.

OK, still working on this one. Have worked out that the source of the extra power is coming through the 60amp fusible link off the battery marked AM1

 

Unfortunately all I have is a Gregory's to work from, which shows the three fusible links, but has 2 in series going to the heater motor.which I can't see being right

 

Does anyone know which circuit the 60 amp fusible link AM1 is for?

B.L.Z.BUB,

Thank you, you're a legend.

Looks like i've got a dash to pull apart though :(

So, my daughter is now the proud owner of 1/2 an AE82. A lot of extra room inside with most of the dash missing.

 

Pity i still haven't traced the cause of the issue.

 

Does anyone have, or can the direct me towards a complete copy of the AE82 factory wiring diagram for an '88 AE82 CS-X Seca (single cam).

 

The gregory's manual wiring diagram is giving me more headaches than answers. The engine wiring that B.L.Z.BUB provided shows the wiring in question going to the ignition switch (tested), the stop lights (tested) and then disappears off the page :(

You could try asking on http://forum.twincam.org.au/ as that site is mainly AE82 based. About the best I can do sorry :(

I will see if my 82 manual has it in it, I did have an electrical one but threw it out.

I will see if my 82 manual has it in it, I did have an electrical one but threw it out.

 

Trev. much appreciated

 

B.L.Z.BUB, thanks, i'll check out the twin cam site.

B.L.Z.BUB,

One FX16 full body wiring diagram, courtesy of the twin cam site.

Now to work out where the power is going to....

How are you going with this? I found my manual but it isn't really usable so I have another one on it's way, I will scan it when it arrives if you still need it.