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Posted

hi i recently bought a ke70 corolla with a reconditioned engine.

when i bought the car it ran alright for a couple days then issues started to arise

 

the car would start and run fine but when i got driving it would occasionally just die,

it mainly died when i put my foot on the clutch to gear down or come to a complete stop.

i would then either have to push start it or it would be nice sometimes and start straight up.

 

for a while i drove with the choke just a tiny bit out, this helped and would prevent it from stalling when slowing down.

i had fiddled with the idle speed and mixtures, and replaced solenoids but still nothing.

one day when it died i became frustrated with the car and called road side assistance.

the man came to the conclusion that the carby was faulty.

 

i have a whole working parts car so all i simply did was take the old carby off and replaced it with the one off my parts car.

i have correctly connected all the vacuum hoses, looked for air leaks but now the car is running worse

 

it will not start easily but when it finally does it will only run if i keep my foot on the accelerator but once i let go it dies almost instantly

i am becoming rather frustrated and would really like some help on the matter

thankyou

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Posted (edited)

Check your points inside the dizzy. They could be worn out/pitted or not opening enough. The gap when the points open should be 0.4mm when at the highest point on the distributor cam lobe.

 

gap.png

Edited by B.L.Z.BUB
Posted

Get something flammable like WD40 etc and spray it around the carbie while its running. See if it'll idle then. This will rule out a vacuum leak as the leak will suck in the flammable aerosol instead of straight air.

Posted (edited)

Grab a spanner and check all the nuts and bolts holding the manifolds onto the head before you chase the air leaks. If either action makes a difference then pull them off and replace the gaskets with a one-piece.

 

Did you check the timing when you checked the points? If it is retarded it won't want to start or run.

 

Finally, can you see fuel being pumped down the carb throat when you open the throttle?? You might have a blocked jet or passage in that carb and the original had a different problem.

 

Do you know how to adjust the idle speed and idle mixture screws correctly??

 

Are there other problems we don't know about? Oil in the water, or it uses water?? Just because its a reco motor doesn't mean it wont't have a blown headgasket. Most mechanics these days know all about fuel injection computers and nothing about 50year old 'K' motors...

Edited by altezzaclub
Posted

Yes have done the timing checked the points no oil in the water there is fuel spraying down the carb oil doesn't look like a milk shake I did make sure it was bolted down nice and tight and I spend a long time changing al the vacume hoses to make sure there were no leaks

 

Posted

Ok, ignition is all working and carb can spray fuel, so pump and float are working. No loose bolts and no obvious leaks in the vac hoses. One to check would be the brake booster circuit, just pull it off the manifold and put a bolt in the hole with some tape around it to seal it. See if it idles then. The other would be the PCV inlet in the manifold, same thing, block it off and see if it idles. A broken piston in the PCV valve would let air in.

 

It seems like the lack or idle and unwillingness to start depends on either too much air going in at idle or not enough fuel. Does screwing the idle mixture screw in and out in half-turn lots make a difference??

 

If I were you I'd pull the original carb apart and strip it. Clean the jets and especially the drilled circuits out by flushing petrol through them with a syringe.

 

When you swap the carb back on you can block the rubber vac tube with a rivet each or a big nail, the car should run without any of them working. If it idles OK, just add the hoses to the carb one by one.

  • 1 month later...

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