stropin Posted December 26, 2013 Report Posted December 26, 2013 hi i recently bought a ke70 corolla with a reconditioned engine. when i bought the car it ran alright for a couple days then issues started to arise the car would start and run fine but when i got driving it would occasionally just die, it mainly died when i put my foot on the clutch to gear down or come to a complete stop. i would then either have to push start it or it would be nice sometimes and start straight up. for a while i drove with the choke just a tiny bit out, this helped and would prevent it from stalling when slowing down. i had fiddled with the idle speed and mixtures, and replaced solenoids but still nothing. one day when it died i became frustrated with the car and called road side assistance. the man came to the conclusion that the carby was faulty. i have a whole working parts car so all i simply did was take the old carby off and replaced it with the one off my parts car. i have correctly connected all the vacuum hoses, looked for air leaks but now the car is running worse it will not start easily but when it finally does it will only run if i keep my foot on the accelerator but once i let go it dies almost instantly i am becoming rather frustrated and would really like some help on the matter thankyou Quote
B.L.Z.BUB Posted December 26, 2013 Report Posted December 26, 2013 (edited) Check your points inside the dizzy. They could be worn out/pitted or not opening enough. The gap when the points open should be 0.4mm when at the highest point on the distributor cam lobe. Edited December 26, 2013 by B.L.Z.BUB Quote
stropin Posted December 26, 2013 Author Report Posted December 26, 2013 its a recon engine so I'm faily sure it wouldnt be worn but ill double check thanks! :) Quote
stropin Posted December 26, 2013 Author Report Posted December 26, 2013 nah points are all good still not running Quote
B.L.Z.BUB Posted December 26, 2013 Report Posted December 26, 2013 Get something flammable like WD40 etc and spray it around the carbie while its running. See if it'll idle then. This will rule out a vacuum leak as the leak will suck in the flammable aerosol instead of straight air. Quote
altezzaclub Posted December 26, 2013 Report Posted December 26, 2013 (edited) Grab a spanner and check all the nuts and bolts holding the manifolds onto the head before you chase the air leaks. If either action makes a difference then pull them off and replace the gaskets with a one-piece. Did you check the timing when you checked the points? If it is retarded it won't want to start or run. Finally, can you see fuel being pumped down the carb throat when you open the throttle?? You might have a blocked jet or passage in that carb and the original had a different problem. Do you know how to adjust the idle speed and idle mixture screws correctly?? Are there other problems we don't know about? Oil in the water, or it uses water?? Just because its a reco motor doesn't mean it wont't have a blown headgasket. Most mechanics these days know all about fuel injection computers and nothing about 50year old 'K' motors... Edited December 26, 2013 by altezzaclub Quote
stropin Posted December 27, 2013 Author Report Posted December 27, 2013 Yes have done the timing checked the points no oil in the water there is fuel spraying down the carb oil doesn't look like a milk shake I did make sure it was bolted down nice and tight and I spend a long time changing al the vacume hoses to make sure there were no leaks Quote
altezzaclub Posted December 27, 2013 Report Posted December 27, 2013 Ok, ignition is all working and carb can spray fuel, so pump and float are working. No loose bolts and no obvious leaks in the vac hoses. One to check would be the brake booster circuit, just pull it off the manifold and put a bolt in the hole with some tape around it to seal it. See if it idles then. The other would be the PCV inlet in the manifold, same thing, block it off and see if it idles. A broken piston in the PCV valve would let air in. It seems like the lack or idle and unwillingness to start depends on either too much air going in at idle or not enough fuel. Does screwing the idle mixture screw in and out in half-turn lots make a difference?? If I were you I'd pull the original carb apart and strip it. Clean the jets and especially the drilled circuits out by flushing petrol through them with a syringe. When you swap the carb back on you can block the rubber vac tube with a rivet each or a big nail, the car should run without any of them working. If it idles OK, just add the hoses to the carb one by one. Quote
stropin Posted December 27, 2013 Author Report Posted December 27, 2013 Alrighty sounds like a big job I'll get back to you on the results, thanks for all the help much appreciated ! :) Quote
stropin Posted December 28, 2013 Author Report Posted December 28, 2013 All working now thanks heaps for all the help!! Quote
stropin Posted February 3, 2014 Author Report Posted February 3, 2014 There was air leaking from the bottom of the carby because it wasn't sealed properly Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.