Hi there I've just bought a 82 ke70 for drifting I got it cheap because it hade no spark I've replaced the points and theres still no spark in the plugs do I have get a new coil or disturber.

Nope- you have to learn what each component does and how to wire it up...

 

Trace the ignition power from the key through the ballast, the coil and the distributor and let us know what you find. Pull each wire off and measure the voltage with a multimeter. Start with the points, is there power there, and work backwards

Yeah theres spark between the point but not that strong but the battery was a little flat. And yes ill be going up to repco and getting a multimeter. do you know of anyone who would come have a look just at the engine in general because I'm normally a nissan man but latly its All about the rolla main thing is I don't know anything about the 4kc engine and would like to know is it worth keeping or doing a engine swap when I got $$$

It has no grunt and and will forever be a little 1300cc... so it will rev happily if modified, cruise at 100kph no problem, not use much fuel, be fun to drive, but I reckon it will never be a drifter unless you have it on 135x13 crossply tyres!

 

Its just a another engine- do a compression test, watch for water leaks, head gasket water usage, how much oil it uses and that will give you an idea of how good it is compared to brand new. Fit a decent carb, get a cam cut, extractors and exhaust and get the flywheel lightened and balanced. If its pretty worn out bore it to 1500cc with 5K pistons. Otherwise, throw it out and fit the famous 4AGE or a 3SGE. You could turbo or s'charge it.

 

The points problem is probably a bad condensor, grab one when you're getting the meter. Maybe its the coil, but I'd do condensor first, if the points are worn grab them too.

Cheers man and ive been looking and I'm going to covert it to rb20det and make some power for the little rolla :)

hi lads antill I get a new engine. I'm going to ge the 4kc going I went up to repco today and got a new coil and a circuit tester. all tho the new coil I got says not to run with resistor is that ok? and the old coil that was in it hade a resistor. there was a black and light orange colour wire that had a circuit going thro it and went on the old coils resistor the old coil was a c80r and the new one I got is a c80 with no resistor and another thing is there any photos around of good engine bay pics of distributor and coil set up because I think myns got made wiring problems aswell when I try to crank the car the temp starts going up all the way to hot if I keep cranking it and that's with the car not going and and there just no spark what so ever.

Ah- you definately do have wiring problems!

 

OK, the "R" on the coil name stands for 'resistor', and that would have been a 9V coil. Without the 'R', the coil will be 12V. So you will have to run both the 'start' ignition wire that is on the coil +ve normally, and the "run" ignition wire that is on the ballast resistor normnally, both to your coil positive.

 

This is because the 'start' wire feeds 12V to the 9V coil when cranking, so the coil works at 100% efficiency under the reduced voltage from the starter motor load. Then when it starts the ballast resistor drops the coil feed to 9V and just dumps the other 3V out as heat.

 

Your new coil will run at 12V when driving, but struggle a bit when starting under 8 or 9volts. Not that it will worry you, I expect it will be fine for years yet.

 

Now, the temp gauge wire is earthing out if the gauge goes to 'hot' when the motor is not running. I have a feeling it is on the oil pressure sender unit, as that goes to earth when the motor is off. Find the temp sender wire and trace it. On both my cars it is yellow-green on the temp sender, and yellow-black on the oil pressure sender. Those wires join into a loomb behind the dizzy.

and a circuit tester.

Excellent- first thing is to pull off the wires on the coil +ve and the ballast resistor +ve and make sure that the coil gets power when you turn the key to crank it over, and the ballast gets power when you just have the key on 'ignition'. Run the negative wire of the tester straight to the body somewhere to earth it. Then both of those wires go to the +ve of your new coil.

 

Once you can confirm power to the coil +ve, hook it up and check the coil -ve for 12V to earth, then with it all hooked up and the points open, check 12V to earth on the points arm. If the points are closed you won't get a voltage reading as it goes straight through them to earth.

Hey mann i got a new dizzy and it has,a wire coming out red and black but there no where to connect it to where do you have yours

 

My electronic one has two wires, one red, one black.

 

Red goes to ignition, so I have it on the key side of the ballast resistor. Black goes to coil -ve.

 

A stock mechanical ignition just has one wire, which goes to coil -ve.

so the two wire coming out of my dizzy red & black can I put them on the coil red to red black to black?

Yes, but don't use a ballast resistor or the red will feed your dizzy only 9V.

 

That's why mine is on the key-side (12V feed) of the ballast resistor.

I donno I ended up getting help off aus12.com.au