Calypso Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 Hi Guys, I recently bought a Calypso Blue KE55. All going well until brake lights stopped working. Suspected dodgy stereo install from previous owner. Fuses keep blowing as soon as I replace them. Have removed all sub and amps to isolate problem. Still blowing fuses immediately and draining battery. Suspect a voltage leak somewhere. Unplugged brake pedal switch and still measuring 12 volts across the fuse holder. Can anyone recommend a decent auto electrician (inner west / artarmon) or solution to my problem? Cheers, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clapped out Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 (edited) Nice looking car! It will still measure 12v on the braking circuit even with the brake pedal switch removed, its a full time circuit. I'd be looking into all aftermarket accessories first to see if there is a problem there, 9 times out of 10 an electrical problem is usually the last item that has been touched/modified, When you say "12v across the fuse holder", I'm assuming with the fuse removed (obviously)? Just try and find where they have bridged the power. cheers! Edited March 11, 2014 by Clapped out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannyl Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 (edited) did u fix em? stop/tail/turn fuse, right? crossed filament? put a test light across batt terminal to disconnected batt cable. for fuses that blow, an automotive circuit breaker can be used connected across the fuse connections. then go disturb components in the circuits for that fuse. you should hear the breaker trip and reset when you find it. don't ever substitute any other material or component for a fuse, long term. diagnostic purposes only! start eliminating items. remove bulbs, unplug components 1 by one observing the light at the batt post. when u disturb where its crossed or grounding out. the light will change/ go out. now visually inspect the components for something amiss. look into the bulb sockets. inspect the wires at the brake light switch. inspect the lightswitch. inspect the turn signal switch. sometimes older harnesses can shrink away causing bare wires. then being close to metal components they can be in touch with or chafe into the dash or the column, or brackets etc. mine had a dimmer switch rheostat get itself shorted and tried to burn the car. on a celica i had years ago it was the courtesy lights in the door trim panel touching the pass thru hole. a dark bulb that doesnt light can be the one with the filament broke on one side and fallen touching something. be it to ground or the other circuit... each lamp that works is good for 1/4amp a shorted one you must measure to see the rate. add em all together and you have your rate of discharge. on any current draw reading, note your multimeter's testlead hookup and rated capacity. on mine, i have a 10a internal fuse when reading amps. normal unmodified vehicles can have an existing mA (milliamp) draw existing for keep alive memory. if yours has a bunch of kids stuff, use the reading to determine, as you disconnect items one by one, whether it still adds up to a troublesome amount. connecting where we had the test light at the beginning will show you any current that leaves the batt. if you suspect its higher than the meter rating , DON'T hook up! higher rates require inductive amp clamp instead of twin leads and the kind of setup in the meter for this, (like alternator output) a shunt is used here. LUCAS must have also owned a fire extinguisher company Edited April 26, 2014 by dannyl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.