Hey guys long time lurker first time poster.

I've got a ke30 project that I'm doing the basics are

 

Rolling body with half cage at the moment, going to be an sr20det, Borg Warner falcon LSD

 

So I'm going to start doing a custom 4 link set up similar to the picture I'm a qualified fabricator so that side of things is fine it what I'm stuck on is how to attach the new c notched chassis to the original? And the positioning of the the front mounts etc Does anybody have anymore details or pictures of how this has been done by others?

 

Any help is much appreciated

 

Cheers Danny

 

Oh stop it. You're just showing off.

 

Build thread. Pics or ban.

Oh stop it. You're just showing off.

 

Build thread. Pics or ban.

 

Haha above pic isn't my car! But yes a build thread will start once I start cutting =)

i would tie it into the front rails, and across to the sills. also consider the roll cage as part of the structure of the car and tie it in accordingly, a 6 point would be wise. Unlike that pic i would step floor up directly behind that seat brace and use shorter arms containing the 4 link behind that brace, the result would be a much neater floor when you close it all up.

i would tie it into the front rails, and across to the sills. also consider the roll cage as part of the structure of the car and tie it in accordingly, a 6 point would be wise. Unlike that pic i would step floor up directly behind that seat brace and use shorter arms containing the 4 link behind that brace, the result would be a much neater floor when you close it all up.

 

Cheers for the reply mate. The cage has to stay a 4 point half Cage/roll bar due to me wanting to keep it street legal and nz it's just way to hard to have a certed full cage

 

With the shorter arms would that not move the position of the diff making it not aligned with the wheel archs?.. Is that a purely cosmetic point?. Sorry for the questions, I have the fabrication knowledge but still lack a lot of the car side of things.

 

Cheers Danny

 

I like the way the 4 link is located in the above photo. I am also (very slowly) working on a 4 link ke55, but I am building a large clip out of 50x75 and will have no hope of rego or a back seat and I think this would have been a better way to go. Not to worry..

I would not recommend using shorter bars, as the geometry of your setup (pinion angle, axle forward/rear location, roll steer) will change too dramatically as the diff travels up and down when compared to longer bars. I have had a 2 year hiatus on my build due to work commitments, but from memory I think most fabricated parallel 4 link bars are around the 22" mark I think. Doesn't have to be this long but the closer you get the better your setup will be.

I'm not entirely sure what you mean by C notched chassis section, or how much of the floor has been removed, but you don't have to remove the whole lot necessarily.

 

This might be good for a look, this is how the world championship rally Ford Escorts were done back in the day. They were very successful, so it's proven. I'm always shocked about how light the gauge of metal holding everything together is, but there you go. Arms there are 30", boxes added for the arms, they turret things too for the shocks.

 

http://hyme.techno.net.au/FFCC/Escort%20Rally%20car%20files/Chapter%2005%20-%20Rear%20Suspension.pdf

I like the way the 4 link is located in the above photo. I am also (very slowly) working on a 4 link ke55, but I am building a large clip out of 50x75 and will have no hope of rego or a back seat and I think this would have been a better way to go. Not to worry..

I would not recommend using shorter bars, as the geometry of your setup (pinion angle, axle forward/rear location, roll steer) will change too dramatically as the diff travels up and down when compared to longer bars. I have had a 2 year hiatus on my build due to work commitments, but from memory I think most fabricated parallel 4 link bars are around the 22" mark I think. Doesn't have to be this long but the closer you get the better your setup will be.

 

yep, what i should have said is triangulated top bars, not shorter top bars. the top picture looks pretty ghetto imo.

Edited August 7, 201412 yr by oh what a nissan feeling!