Points are probably burnt out or not opening.

Strip the carby and hose out all the jets and drillings with petrol or carby cleaner, it sounds like there is shit blocking fuel flow either in a jet or a drilling.

 

Check the points for gap as blzbub says, and if they need opening up check the timng afterwards. Check the spark with a screwdriver across the open points and ignition on in case the condensor is leaking and the spark is very weak.

 

If a fuel filter is blocked I'd expect it to start and rev fine, but stutter when the load comes on as you drive away. For it not to start the float bowl would be almost completely dry, which is pretty unlikely.

yeah to go from hero to zero i don't think would be anything fuel related except the fuel solenoid (would be fairly rare for that to fail).

 

First check id do is check for spark by removing a spark plug, leaving it attached to the lead, and grounding the body and seeing if it sparks when you crank it.

 

(Using a rag or something to hold the spark plug...)

if starting while cranking then stopping when you release key, check coil ballast resistor by bypassing

Another remote possibility, check the low tension circuit from the coil to the points (if you have no spark and you have a point gap). Sometimes the wire can break at the distributor body. A common issue on my old Datsun 1200

Hi guys

I guess the winner is Tojo2. It was definitely the ballast. Changed that & it started straight away

 

The only one I could get hold of was a 1.60 Ohm. Hope that's right. I couldn't find any references to the ohms.

It has a Lucas coil, so I guess that would be the original.

 

B.L.Z.Bub, would have to be second. You were still right, I don't know how this car was still running so smooth.

The point's were shot.Hardly any gap as the fibre lobe had all worn down & they were pitted so bad it's a wonder I couldn't see daylight threw a hole that should have been there. Micron left

 

Next was the plugs, don't know how long they have been in there. They were black but no oil or burning

The mother in law had this serviced regularly by hometune or someone every three months so I can guarantee that was a rip off

 

So doing a complete tune up. Worked out it's a Bosch system not Nippon Denso which surprised me.

 

Which brings me to another question.

The Spark Plugs I pulled out are NGK BP5ES

The plugs they told me suit the 3KC motor are NGK BP5EY

I have worked out the S is for suppression for radio etc & the Y is v power a v groove in the electrode

 

I have no noise using the Y but I was wondering if they are a hotter plug

Which plug would you guys run?

 

I have a little pinging but I think that is because I have not checked the timing since replacing the points.

I still have to replace the Cap & rotor as the ones are bought must be for Denso. The cap is too small in diameter , just

Appreciate your thoughts

 

Once again

Thanks to all your responses

The number is the heat range, so both have the same.