So i've been into datsuns for a few years now and finally bought a car i been after for about 3 years.

 

71 corolla 2 door wagon.

With a 13b streetport swap with racing beat header, intake, and holley 460 tuned by racingbeat.

I picked it up yesterday and have already cleaned it out and got it started. Its been sitting ten years. Hopefully should be drive able by next monday. :) Well here she is. I like to post many pics.

 

Hopefully you guys don't mind.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just throwing this out there. These are my 2 521's ive had for a while. can't wait to get this rolla back on the road. :)

 

71 corolla 2 door wagon ke26:

Thats great mate. Welcome to the world of rollaclub. Those are some rare bird these days in Australia, I assume in the US they are just as scarce. Cool its got a motor swap too. :clover:

Thats great mate. Welcome to the world of rollaclub. Those are some rare bird these days in Australia, I assume in the US they are just as scarce. Cool its got a motor swap too. :clover:

 

Yes this is very rare in the states. 1 of maybe 10 in california

Always good to see more of these, Carlos are there any windowless panelvan KE26's in the states?

Always good to see more of these, Carlos are there any windowless panelvan KE26's in the states?

 

No sir. They don't exist here i would be after one if they did. Lol.

Moved it in my driveway today under its own power. :D

Need help bleeding the brakes.

 

With the line disconnected the reservoir half way no fluid comes out. If i pour fluid down where the line goes into it sucks it into the reservoir.

 

The brake master is new btw

Edited April 14, 201511 yr by konig209

Figured it out. Half hour of bench bleeding later and tah dah. Done. Time for bed.

False alarm. Still can't figure it out.

 

I don't really understand from what you've said, but after any mc swap you need to bleed the mc as well as the brakes at all 4 corners. You just crack a flare nut on each line, and use it like a bleeder nipple, just let the air out with pedal pressure and close the nut. I like to give it a few pumps along the way once you get a pedal just to build some pressure and force any remaining bubbles to the extremes, then bleed again. Put a rag around the mc to absorb any fluid and wash the area after or your paint will go away with the air bubbles.

I don't really understand from what you've said, but after any mc swap you need to bleed the mc as well as the brakes at all 4 corners. You just crack a flare nut on each line, and use it like a bleeder nipple, just let the air out with pedal pressure and close the nut. I like to give it a few pumps along the way once you get a pedal just to build some pressure and force any remaining bubbles to the extremes, then bleed again. Put a rag around the mc to absorb any fluid and wash the area after or your paint will go away with the air bubbles.

 

Thanks. Disconnected each brake line blew air tons of crap came out. Now i just need to figure out why the brake master wont push fluid into the lines.

Has anyone ever needed to use this?

 

http://www.autopartsway.com/partlist.cfm?toyota/1971/corolla/base/1.2l-l4/allb/tools-and-equipment/brake-system-service/brake-master-cylinder-bleeding-tool/pagenum1/tabs/bdyt/engd3kc/bdydrs/fueltgas

 

 

 

Can you take a pic of your proportioning valve and mark which goes to brake master and which goes to rear wheels Please.

Edited April 15, 201511 yr by konig209

Never mind. Spent all afternoon blowing out the brakes. Tons of crap came out and the rear wheel cylinders are locked up and plugged up. Just purchased 2 new ones.

Drove it finally. And its fast. Lol

 

 

Toyota corolla ke26 13b street port swap:

A 2-door wagon in the states, You might as well look for hen's teeth. Cool car! keep the updates coming.