Hey all

 

After some thinking today and what not, i was wondering what ke""s the 3K Big port intake manifold came off - u know the bit I'm takin about - bit that takes the air and fuel into the cylinders !

 

stilllll thinking about K motors, how they work, best setup : Price etc

 

Thanks all :)

any one? supa jamie? :)

afaik, bigport heads (with water jackets and without) only came with the twincarb manifold, which still has fairly small diameter runners funnily enough

 

they were factory on k-b and 3k-b motors in ke15/17 sprinters, ke20/25 SLs, and i think ke35 SRs (not to be confused with TE27 SR with flares and 2t-g)

 

there was also a 3k-d motor, which i think had standard port head but twincarbs, nobody i know has ever seen one, just read about them in books

ahh okok - coolies!

 

How hard is it to get a 3K Big port manifold these days?

 

:)

why do you want a 3K big port manifold with standard head port sizes???

 

unless you were thinking of doing some porting on your head.....:)

:S :)

the twincarb manifold just has standard size ports

 

so the only reason you'd want it would be for twincarbs, not to specifically suit a ported head. i thought about having the ports in my twincarb manifold taken out to about 30mm, but i think this would weaken the metal too much, two carbs with full float bowls are pretty heavy for soft alloy to be holding up

 

you could probably open the runners in the singlecarb manifold out with a die grinder, a flexible longneck and some heavy belt sanding paper. if you can get access to the tools. and it would take a while and be hard to make your work accurate, as you can't measure inside the curve

 

sadly, if you want a better intake manifold, you're probably going to have to make one

 

honestly i wouldn't bother, even match porting is pretty false economy when you have huge ports and a little manifold. for a k head with standard valves you don't want to enlarge the inlet ports anyway, all the improvement to be had is in the inlet bowls, combustion chamber and exhaust bowls and ports

what are you thinking of doing and/or hoping to achieve. this has got me thinking more and more about writing the head porting section of the faq...

so you want a bigport HEAD! thats different then :) much better idea

 

higher compression gives much better performance, and the ports are 10 million times better than the crappy stock ones. you'll actually need to have the combustion chambers ported a bit to lower the compression, bolton is 10.5:1. on an otherwise stock motor with a stock cam, running bp ultimate, i wouldn't go any higher than 9.8:1

 

you can find them, but they're difficult. even if you got your stock head ported out to bigport sizes it would be worth it

heheh yep !

 

And to make things better, ive got a 3K Toyota Repair manual - covers 2k, 3k, 3kb, 3kc - so this should come in handy! (and the 4K engine repair manual lol :S)

 

any other tips for doin this some time in the future? - my next next thing is the suspension, after that it will most likely be this - when the exhaust gets done, do it all at one time - but in a way that if somting goes rong, i can go back 1 step and it will work again - (1 thing at a time, untill its all done :))

do your exhaust before you start on headwork. full extractors and pipe. because once you have a decent top end on your motor, next step is to change the cam

 

if you put a decent cam in with stock exhaust (or even a decent pipe but the stock manifold) it will be too restrictive and you'll get intake reversion, which is forcing of the intake charge back into the inlet valve. you can spot it because your carby blows a mist of fuel back up with the air filter off, sometimes quite high. stewart has a fairly hefty cam, just a tad above a street cam with his stock inlet manifold, he had intake reversion blowing fuel 15cm above the carby :)

 

suspension, steering, exhaust, headwork, cam, carby. wheels, interior, stereo at any time :S

 

with a modified motor, you want to at least have a tacho and (ELECTRICAL) oil pressure gauge, oil temp is a pretty good idea too. i like driving with a vacuum gauge, to aid in fuel economy. a voltmeter will let you know the condition of your alternator too

 

lots to do, lots to plan, (lots to spend). one at a time, you'll get there :D

hehehe ya, i like gauges :) - it was going to be 1 of the first things i was going to do to the car when i got it, but cost and where to put them made the idea sink back into the mud...

 

suspension - Next to do

steering - well, when my car was regesterd, the steering was done.. sterring box was replaced i think, and the tie rod ends were done 4 sure!

exhaust - just needs to be installed now

headwork - reading up on it atm !

cam - Reading up on it atm!

carby - Reading up on it atm!

wheels - TICK !

interior - TICK !

stereo - TICK for now :S !

 

Gauges... Mmmmm :D