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Brake Upgrade And Clutch Adjustment

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two things in the title, thought i'd kill two birds with one stone. firstly i really wanna upgrade my brakes, right now they're the standard set. i heard that the 20v model (and gze) have bigger brakes (front disks) and i was wondering if anyone here knew what work was involved in fitting them. I'm getting the d2 coilovers soon (any advice on if/why d2 are bad?) so i'm not sure if that would complicate the upgrade.

second, my clutch has about 5+cm of freeplay and it's driving me nuts. feels like i'm driving a short-ass, weak-ass clutch and it's really frustrating on slow moving traffic... i know where to adjust it, but the nut is

1. dam hard to get to unless you're a midget (thinkin of removing seat in order to get access)

2. when i do get my hands, pliers on it, i can't turn the fukka, is it some spesh locknut or something. do i need to get a spesh tool or go to toyota? i'm really confused about why toyota made this the way they did, please help.

 

ok so there's technically three questions asked there but all relevant i feel.

 

edit: i'm only keen on the front brake upgrade, don't have time to do backs, and frankly i've heard that the drums are much nicer for keeping the car steady on handbrake which makes sense to me (i'm hoping front upgrade will be more than enough to manage stopping the 50kW beast)

Edited by hobart_ae92

hey hey

 

i did the front brakes on my ae82 seca. I took my calipers and rotors from my half cut

(ae92 trueno) . It was a straight bolt up fit. Make sure if you get your brakes from another car you get the rotors machined, cost about $15 each. bigger rotors means the backing plate wont fit either remove it or bend it back.make sure you get a bigger spare rim if you get bigger brakes.

 

cheers des

the link below is where i found out all the info i needed for my brake upgrade.

 

but if ur only going to be doing the fronts, i would try and get a set of 258mm dia * 22mm thick vented front discs and calipers to suit. (GTi hatch and SX Seca in Australia) also try and get the backing plate as it saves u from having to bed the oringal one back to fing the bigger discs.

 

and its a myth imho(and experience) that the drums hold better on the hand brake than discs

 

http://www.twincam.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=1063 << and try this link for more info

Edited by MYSTIK

i only changed my fronts and dam it nealy shoots ya though the window with ya belt on.

no brake fade at high temps now.pulls up from 180kph pretty quick. ;)

i only changed my fronts and dam it nealy shoots ya though the window with ya belt on.

no brake fade at high temps now.pulls up from 180kph pretty quick. :y:

 

;) :y: :y: :y: :y: :lolcry:

 

i did front and backs and mine noses dives a bit more under heavy braking than it use to atm, only coz i need to get the bias valve adjusted in the master cyclinder or find myself a sx master clinder :jamie:

  • Author

awesome guys, i'm down in tassie...u prob don't know how that feels (haha cue the two head jks). but it's really hard to get parts local, so reckon i'll call up sss auto or some big place on mainland and get parts sent...? just shitty cuz if i get ripped there's no much i can do ova the phone.

anywho..., i was wondering if anyone had any experience with the clutch adjustment. my haynes manual says it's a pretty simple procedure, but i just can't do it! any pointers?

 

thanks again, u guys are great!

 

ps. spesh thanks to 'too quick' for looking that stuff up for us. i checked it out and reckon i'll have to keep my eye on the price of those babies

Edited by hobart_ae92

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