hobart_ae92

yes, i've installed a 32/36 weber on my 4afc. it's a nice unit but i'm still working towards finding out how to optimise if for my engine (i.e. jet sizing) but i'll get there eventually. positives: great for amateur tuner like me because it's so much simpler than the toyota part, awesome feeling of hearing the air get sucked in, when secondary kicks in you can feel it and it feels good :drgrim: , tuning potential negatives: fuel consumption is a bit worse now (ok a lot worse but i do enjoy opening up the secondary throat), manual choke was annoying at beginning but now is second nature, fitting was a little tricky due to strange adaptor plate overall i'm happy to recommend the upgrade, however every now and then i see a set of sidedtraft trumpets in a magazine and think maybe i should have gone that route so check on that before you splurge. either way all the best with your mods

hey man i'm far from a pro on this but i would just go and check the essentials. things that come to mind are checking the condition of your plugs, oil, filter and ensure that the intake side of things hasn't got too much buildup. i.e. in my carby model i'll use carby cleaner every few months to keep my intake as clean as possible. if the solution isn't that simple definately see if a local mechanic will take a look, most times they will be more than happy to have a look and make a recommendation at no charge. good luck with it p.s. i think you'll get more helpful responses if you give info about what type of engine and mods you have

.... not sure if i made that as clear as i could. I have a ae92, there's a ae82 sitting in a wreckers yard that's got rear disks on it. on the net all i've found is advice on getting ae92 rear disks on, not ae82 ones. I'm just wondering if anyone knows what parts i need to take off the donor car, but also if there's any point at all since i'm not sure if they're compatible.

guys, i need some help quick (no, not mental assistance :P). i've tracked down some rear disk brakes froma ae82 and i still don't know if i can get these on my car. i've heard already that there is a possible conversion and it needs the rear most suspension arms or something (not really sure), but i'm not sure whether this is referring to using the ae82 parts. i'm looking it up on google but nothing so far. quick responses appreciated, i'd rather these don't get snapped up by someone else only to find out that they'd suit my car later on. hope u guys can help me out. cheers

UPDATE: thanks heaps for the prices, i ended up getting something less because the oppertunity was good. from my experience, in tassie when something good shows its head you don't hesitate so i got me the same size brakes but ventilated so hopefully they do a bit better. if anyone else has a similar query, i got my 238mm ventilated disks with calipers all together for $135. haven't installed yet (waiting for weekend) but i hope that all the parts are in as good nick as they look.

howdy, i've tracked down the brakes that i'm getting but i just wanna make sure that i get the best price. i'm hoping someone who reads this will have some experience or know what these should cost me, also it'd be great if you could even just point me in the right direction for where to find them... brakes are from a late model AE92 SX seca/GTi ... 258mm diameter, 22mm thickness, vented disks; then also need the calipers to go with it. From what i've read it's just a straight bolt on job to replace my 238(?)mm solid disks and calipers atm. Any useful info appreciated, thanks.

mate i've got a AE92 and they're a great car. Unfortunately i've only got the 1.6 carby engine model (lowest of low for this model) and as far as i know they also have the same engine (4AFC) in an injected form (4AFE). Neither of these will give you 100kW. There is a 4AGE in some of the 'sport' optioned ones (maybe SX...?) and these come in a 'small port' and 'big port' type. I think only the 'big port' will give you a factory 100kW. Other than this there are the two famous ones, the 4AGZE (supercharged 4AGE) and the high compression 20V black/silver tops. Both of these should give over 100kW from factory and have huge potential (although many argue that a 'big port' 4AGE has more potential that a 20V...) Again as far as i know, the 4AGZE is the only one that comes with strengthened internals (relative to NA ones) and the 20V are the youngest of all of them so they get some 'newer tech' bits which are lighter. I haven't read this site for a while, but back in the day i found it as the best source of info. give it a read and you will learn some new stuff. Don't forget just cuz it's on the net doesn't make it true so if you're looking at one specific model always ensure you check a few sources for that particular one to make sure all the info is consistent. the site is http://www.billzilla.org/4agstock.htm comes from http://www.billzilla.org/ , from the hope page you can navigate around and find heaps of cool articles on engine types, modifications etc. that's all i got for now, hope it helps somewhat. tibor.

mate, i'm keeping a close eye on this topic. i've been looking at doing mine as soon as i get a bit of sunshine and time (both in short supply as of late). i was thinking of either cutting the plastic bit (don't like this because i can see it gettin real messy under there) or getting the heatgun on it and trying to bend 'up' the bit that's scraping. There's two ideas but i'd love to hear what people have done and how it went!

awesome guys, i'm down in tassie...u prob don't know how that feels (haha cue the two head jks). but it's really hard to get parts local, so reckon i'll call up sss auto or some big place on mainland and get parts sent...? just shitty cuz if i get ripped there's no much i can do ova the phone. anywho..., i was wondering if anyone had any experience with the clutch adjustment. my haynes manual says it's a pretty simple procedure, but i just can't do it! any pointers? thanks again, u guys are great! ps. spesh thanks to 'too quick' for looking that stuff up for us. i checked it out and reckon i'll have to keep my eye on the price of those babies

two things in the title, thought i'd kill two birds with one stone. firstly i really wanna upgrade my brakes, right now they're the standard set. i heard that the 20v model (and gze) have bigger brakes (front disks) and i was wondering if anyone here knew what work was involved in fitting them. I'm getting the d2 coilovers soon (any advice on if/why d2 are bad?) so i'm not sure if that would complicate the upgrade. second, my clutch has about 5+cm of freeplay and it's driving me nuts. feels like i'm driving a short-ass, weak-ass clutch and it's really frustrating on slow moving traffic... i know where to adjust it, but the nut is 1. dam hard to get to unless you're a midget (thinkin of removing seat in order to get access) 2. when i do get my hands, pliers on it, i can't turn the fukka, is it some spesh locknut or something. do i need to get a spesh tool or go to toyota? i'm really confused about why toyota made this the way they did, please help. ok so there's technically three questions asked there but all relevant i feel. edit: i'm only keen on the front brake upgrade, don't have time to do backs, and frankly i've heard that the drums are much nicer for keeping the car steady on handbrake which makes sense to me (i'm hoping front upgrade will be more than enough to manage stopping the 50kW beast)

oh boohoo u made me cry... :y: . a new engine is prob the right way to go, but remember it's more than just the engine you'll have to change! I've put in a bit so far with the 4afc and it's ok but it's gonna take longer again to get the results that i want... doesn't help when i've got a rattly cat :D .

I've got a different setup, but similarly the car's dropped. I did cut mine to bout half i guess, and that was on the recommendation of the guy who sold me the gear, if you don't you might get more frequent bottoming out since the springs won't have as much travel. Ideally you could try not cutting them and then shorten them if required but it's a fair bit of extra time n effort so i just did it straight up, no complaints here so far. So i guess my vote is, cut them down, but you'll do what u want and best of luck with whatever that may be! tibor

man that sounds really good, i've gotta go n sort out my extractors first (i think they're touchin something, rattle etc. ) but yeah i HAVE to do the guards soon. i just quit work to study more but i got some plans for money :D . your mate's in launnie right, so if i pm u in like a month i can still get it done... if i don't get enthusiastic about it and do it myself with a pipe... Oh yeah, at the front it's rubbing on the plastic bit inside the guard (kinda melted into it) so what do u do about that, just leave it or cut part of it off...? thanks for all your input guys, tibor

I've got the supalows and yeah the guys are right it's gonna take more modding to make it a nice fit but mine don't bottom out at all really... Did you shorten your bump-stops when you installed it? I had this recommended by a pro installer who i got the springs from and yeah no probs here, until i got the 17's, now i have to roll my rears, but that's a another story... Oh i also reckon that it'll take more than springs and shocks to get your corolla to handle more like a sports car...just a fact that these cars (mostly) weren't made to be driven the way that i (and i imagine many of you) like to drive. That's just from my experience with it so far (2 years and counting...) Best of luck with the direction you take! tibor

hmmm... is the engine in the ae82 a 4af? i've got a 4afc (carb) in my ae92 and i had the same problem. It is hard to get to on my engine too, but i just kept at it and did finally get it off without a wrench. If you do get the old one off i recommend putting a bit of the new oil on the thread before you screw the new one on, since this seems to make it easier to remove for the next time. as far as i've read the filter is only really effective for the first short period of use, since it picks up all of the 'large' gunk pretty quickly, so i would say that you should really have another go at replacing the filter for the good of your engine. best of luck! tibor ps. i don't know of any trick to it, just heaps of elbow grease and commitment!

the paint that comes off is the paint underneath the guard, not on the outside right. seems to me it would be pretty easy to prep n paint that part myself with some $20 can-o-paint myself since doesn't matter if it looks bad under there? anywho i'm gonna get the car resprayed soon (money willing) ... thanks for the replys guys, can never have too much help/advice though cheers tibor

hi, i just signed up, had a look through prev topics and didn't see this so excuse me if i missed it. basically i've got a ae92 with supalows and 17s, it scrapes when i go over bumps kinda 'quicker' but if i got someone in back, it scrapes on smallish bumps even when goin slow... so i went round to see who could roll my guards and only found one place (dam hobart) said he would do it for 80 bucks, but he said he'd just bash em out with a rubber mallet...i could do that. anywho i'm just seeking some advice before i go ahead and bash it out a bit... hope you guys can get back to me asap before i ruin something on my car that i love so much. thanks, tibor ps. what i'm afraid of is i've heard of the area prone to rusting after the procedure, is that the case even if you clean n prime, paint it...?