is it a big drama to change from auto to manual?

 

same motors in ke70s?

personally i would just purchase another ke70 and save the bother, but its the gear box, clutch setup, few electronics, not sure about the length of the drifve shaft, and some of the auto's in ke70's had a different diff ratio.

 

Good luck tho !

personally i would just purchase another ke70 and save the bother, but its the gear box, clutch setup, few electronics, not sure about the length of the drifve shaft, and some of the auto's in ke70's had a different diff ratio.

 

Good luck tho !

picked up 2 ke70s

 

one 5speed manual with a shit body

 

one auto with a good body

welp, take lots of photos, notes of both configurations.

 

take a look at the diff's, they should have a number stamped on the back somwhere, u can tell what type / ratio it is by that number.

 

All Ke70's body's were origionally setup for manual's, but the option of auto was avaliable at extra cost (dam looking at wrecks for hours on end :thumbsup:)

 

Anway, id assume it would be a pretty simple process - assuming the tail shaft & diff are the same on both (i have never compaired, so I'm not 100% sure on what u would find :D)so it would basically be drop the auto box out of the auto car, (disconecting where needed, making sure to take out the auto trans cooling lines :|),

 

where was i... ah -> take out the clutch related stuff from the other car and install onto the other one (all mounting points on / up under dash are there on the auto ke70)

 

then take the clutch from the manual motor, and put onto the old auto's motor (not sure about fly wheel.. same / different ? no idea -> but if they are different, just swap em over) - if clutch is old, would be a good time to get a new one, ask any one here - gear box days are usually very long days with lots of hi-sugar drinks involved.

 

...now assuming you have already take out the man box from the other corolla, put it in on the other corolla - you may have to use the manual mounting points from the manual corolla onto the automatic corolla, becuase I'm not sure if mounting points on the autos' and mans were the same / different.

 

Remember to connect up the 2 or 3 connections on and around the manual gear box -> becuase its an auto, the connections will be there, but most likely hidden away from factory, or if thats completry wrong the autos and man's may use the same wiring connections -> again, check and compair, and use some common sence.

 

Connect the clutch cable, tighen as approraite...

 

Oh better time now than ever to make sure that the g-box has fluid in it before u drive it :)

 

Hope that helps !

 

In Order / short form..

 

- Drop Boxes from both cars

- Take out clutch pedal and accessories out of manual car and put aside

- Take out fly wheel and clutch & install on automatic car's motor

- Put manual gear box upto automatic motor

- Disconet and remove oil cooling lines from radiator (no longer needed)

- Make sure everthing is connected up undneath correctly

- Connect up the clutch pedal / cable stuff inside -> remember to adjust correctly

- Fill up the g-box if nessary

- Make sure the wires are all conected up

 

Try it out :)

 

ive never done it b4, hope it helps tho !

 

Cheers,

Ted

legend!

 

cheers mate

flywheel will be different. Manuals have a flywheel, autos have a flex plate

u learn something every day !

 

Cool :dance:

flywheel will be different. Manuals have a flywheel, autos have a flex plate

i gathered that

 

one thing though, will i need a spigot bearing for these things?

 

cheers,

yup.

 

the old auto crank won't have one in it.

anyone know where i can sorce a spigot bearing for a 4kc from?

Repco, Burson's, Coventry, depending on your state. I doubt you'll get one from Supercheap.

Edited November 13, 200421 yr by Redwarf

Repco do not have them.

you could always use the one from the manual car if it is still smooth. you can drive them out with some grease, one of the large bellhousing to block bolts and a big hammer (SST no1.).

 

basically you fill the bearing and its cavity behind with grease (something thick like wheel bearing grease), and use the large snug fitting bolt and the hammer to drive the old bearing out. you just keep filling the cavity with grease to get rid of air bubbles, and keep trying to hydraulically drive it out.

 

i have used this method several times and it works quite well. just make sure if you try it to use a set of pliers or something to hold the bolt. last time i did it i slipped and split my thumb open big time. not much fun with a 1kg hammer and having your hands covered with grease. :sad: