Hey rollaclub memebers.
If anyone needs to know how difficult it is to get a 13b rotary into a KE70 Corolla, I can tell you. I've done this.
Things to consider:-
-turbo or N/A
-gearbox type
-fuel injected or carby
-series of rotar
-type of corolla KE70 or AE71
-budget $$$
What I chose:-
-N/A (extend port)150-200hp
-RX5 5spd Gearbox
-48mm IDA Webber Carby
-Early 4 port 13b w/ s3 RX7 electronc distributor.
-KE70 (clean no rust)
-Less than $1000 (lol) all labour done myself. Already had engine, cost about $2000.
Okay for those of you that still want to read on about what complications I came across here it is.
My first thing I should have considered was put the rotary into a AE71 body, this is because they already have the pedalbox to suit a hydraulic clutch master, which rotaries run. Also that the KE70 4k pedalbox has a pull type clutch pedal fulcrum, its completely different to what you need to get the clutch operational.
Pedalbox:
After perchasing a AE71 pedalbox, clutch master, clutch lines, removing the whole dash assembly, cutting a hole out of the firewall for the clutch master and adapting the pedalbox. I was ready for the next complication, the trail fitting of the 13b to see how it can be placed in the car.
I sit the motor and gearbox in the engine bay roughly where the gearbox mount goes and tried levelling the engine with the KE70 gearbox cross member custom fit to my rx5 gearbox mount.
The way I fit this 13b in is front engine mount and gearbox mount only, (copied from RX3 design) Lowering the engine in I found the steering shaft coming out of the firewall hit the back RH/S of the engine and would interfere with the exhaust.
Not only that but the gearbox tunnel even with the narrow rx5 gearset needs room for the gearbox release bearing fork, which was hard pressed against the firewall at this stage.
How I overcame these problems.
Steering:
I moved the steering rack to the RH/S 40mm by cutting the original rack mounts off and welding them in position. Other conversions i've read lower the rack. I found my way works ok provided you buy a steering extra lock spacer to make the LH/S rack end longer, and then shorten the RH/S rack end this will centralise your steering.
Gearbox tunnel:
What i did wasn't really recommended as I beat the tunnel out for hours with a 3 lb mini sleage hammer. I only did this because I didnt have a welder suitable for welding tin to make a new tunnel, otherwise I would have cut the tunnel out and made a new one. It needs to be similar to the way you cut the firewall on a 4A-GE 20V conversion for the distributor.
...to be continued.
Rocky.