Phat535

anyone want the whole car for a few hundred bucks?

timing belt is fine was the first thing I checked

I currently live on a fairly busy street and it is sometimes hard to listen for small noises when it's busy. Today I had a bit more of a play and I've found why it has no compression, it's all coming straight back out the carby. Turning it over with the spark plugs is you can hear the air puffing out like when you have no plugs in, I've now realised you can hear it coming back out through the carby. Put your hand over the carby and you can clearly feel it.....anyone got any thoughts? I don't see how it could have taken the tops off all 4 inlet valves at the same time. Also I've put a magnet down the spark plug holes and there's nothing sitting on top of the pistons

guys last weekend I was driving along and my car spluttered a few times and started to loose power then just died, I rolled off the side of the road and all I could smell was fuel. Took the air filter off and had a look down the carby, it was almost full to the top with fuel. The car was winding over like it had no compression at all so I just got it towed home till I had more time to look at it. Yesterday I've finally got around to taking a look. First thing I checked was timing belt which is fine. Did a compression test and it came up zero on all 4 cylinders, needle didnt even move. Tested the guage on another car to make sure it was working correctly and then tried again. Again a big zero on the first three and this time about 5psi on number 4. Have taken the rocker cover off to check valve operation which seems to be fine, gave the top of each valve/spring a small tap to make sure they were seating. Then squirted a bit of oil into each cylinder and did a wet test....still zero compression accross the board I'm pretty sure the fuel problem was just a stuck needle and seat, I've got a spare carby here I'll just throw on anyway cause I've never been able to get this carby to run right. But the compression problem has me confused. My boss was of the opinion all the fuel has washed the bores, and that if I just put oil down the spark plug holes and wind it over by hand for a while it should regain compression, but have wound it over by hand for about 15 minutes with oil in the cylinder then tried another compression test and it still came up zero. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanks Dave

when walkinshaws were released you didnt need to have a front plate at all only a rear plate which is why they can still get away with having it like that

guys I've got a custom made pair of 250lbs lowered king springs to suit a KE70/AE71 or similar corolla. I don't believe they will fit an AE86 as the AE86 have a tapered spring that has a smaller coil diameter at the bottom, but they should fit most other older rwd corollas. they cost me $285 to have custom made and they have never been used as they havent even arrived from king springs yet. I only have the front 2 as they were to be fitted to a wagon with a leaf spring rear. They should be arriving by the end of the week but the car I was putting them into has been sold would be good for someone looking to setup a budget drift car

it's an AE71 has the 4A-C not the 4K I've had the head shaved and ported, but apart from that it's stock, I reckon the 32/36 should be an okish size for a slightly worked 1.6L shouldn't it?

Jamie was spot on the money with the exhaust smell ... thanks jamie :P here's me looking for all the worst case scenario instead of checking the simple stuff first, opened the tailgate and a socket wrench fell out. Had been jammed in the tailgate not letting it completely close, but was obviously jammed in there so tight the tailgate had no movement or I would have heard it wasnt closed properly everytime I went over a bump. With the wrench removed ..... no fumes :D not happy about the exhaust still, but I'm going to just cut my losses and go somewhere else and get the job finished rather than go back. as for the carb will a 32/36 (I think that's what they are) webber off a 2L escort bolt onto my manifold? mate told me last night he's got one there that has recently been rebuilt and ran great on his slightly worked 1.6L escort motor

thanks for the tip about the boot seal, never even stopped to think stationwagon tailgate + exhaust tip = very close :P I'll check that now don't think my power dramas are ignition leads, points, plugs, dizzy and coil are all new I'm sure the power problem is fuel related, I have a spare carby here I'll strip and clean out during the week if I get the chance then just swap them, still pissed off about the exhaust etc though...this is a copy and paste of a follow up post I made on another board after my original message, too long to type it all out again "hmmmm just got a chance to get the car up and get under it the exhaust shop has only replaced from the back seat to the tip not happy jan I specifically said to him that I think I have an exhaust leak replace the whole lot he's left the factory 1" pipe from the headers to the resonator which is right back just before the diff then just replaced it from the resonator back, the leak is obviously before this the workshop closed at 1pm and I wont get time again to take it in till next saturday not happy at all he's also not been able to fit the muffler properly so he's cut a piece off one of the leaf spring straps so the muffler would fit so $150 and all he did was replace the muffler and put about a foot of 2" pipe hanging out the back I also got a wheel alignment done at the same time and when I let got of the wheel now he car veers pretty sharply to the left oh and if I wanted to get really picky the end up the pipe hanging out the back of the car looks like it was cut with a hacksaw jagged pieces hanging off it and the exhaust looks like it's rubbing on the shocky"

guys about a week ago I noticed my corolla was down on power and there was some exhaust fumes gettnig in the car, but not too bad at that stage. Only a few days before this I had ran the tank almost dry, and the car seemed to have definate flat spots in the power so I figured the reason for the loss in power was because the carby was blocked with shit. replaced all fuel lines and filter and cleaned the jets in the carby. Flat spots were definately gone but car still felt noticebly down in power and exhaust fumes were getting worse. I figured the muffler was blocked as I had just noticed the exhaust sounded different but thought I was imagining it till this point. Anyways long story short I've just replaced the entire exhaust system and the exhaust fumes are just as bad if not worse, drove the car for 5 minutes and had to pull over and get out because I was feeling dizzy and getting headaches....and I don't know if I'm just imagining it or not but I swear the 2" exhaust and lukey muffler isn't any louder than the stock 1" pea shooter I took off anyone got any ideas what is going on? cause it can't be good for me driving it around with a cabin full of fumes like this thanks guys Dave

in that case a thousand appologies :P

sorry I thought you were having a go at me saying like I wanted to do burnouts so I can be cool and impress my stubbie wearing mates bazza and shazza I'm a little short tempered tonight, I don't remember the last time I was this hung over I was extremely drunk last night and a friend who has just returned from overseas convinced me to smoke a few $150 genuine cuban cigars when I was already so drunk I could barely walk, my stomach didn't like the idea though, as a result I threw up most of my stomach and I've brushed my teeth 3 times today and it still tastes like someone took a shit in my mouth :P :) ;)

my 4A-C won't even do a static burnout in the wet :P even on wet roads if I get it sideways it bogs down and runs out of power it has to be literally pissing down rain for me to get any kind of drift out it haha

yes but what I'm asking is will the 4A-C make anywhere near that with only a cam and headwork

hehe I know some people that know some people that robbed some people :P :)

haha I'm not some newbie who wants to go do a burnout in my fully sick stock excel if I wanted to do that I'd do it in my RX7 or my gemini with the blown 3.8L VP commy donk even though I may have worded it in a funny way I am serious in asking if those mods will achieve wheel spin I recently spent a fair bit of money on the suspension and brakes ready for a 4AGZE conversion and was planning on using it for a drift thasher (mountain runs, QLD Raceway events etc) but even with the better suspension and brakes I can get it sideways easy enough, but only for about half a second before it bogs down from lack of power I'm putting a twin turbo stroker motor into my `94 5 series bmw and that's soaking up a lot of my funds, so can't be bothered spending money on the rolla for a while so as I said I'm not some 17 year old punk kid dreaming about owning cars that can do fully sick burnouts. so I don't appretiate you implying that

doing that tomorrow, been too busy haven't done wiring, hoses etc only just got around to bolting it all in yesterday

haha I'll do the headwork myself as I used to do it for a living and I'll get the cam for sweet dick all cause the Tighe family are family friends I'll be building the whole thing myself so I figure I'll get it all done for under $200 including the vrs kit I just want to know if it'll have enough power to bag the rears, never known anyone silly enough to mod one before so I don't know how they respond to simple mods, don't want to waste my time if I do it and it still won't even do a burnout haha

I've just finished putting a new 4A-C in my AE71 (thanks Jason and Teddy, ended up doing the whole thing by hand, lifting the motor out of Jason's car, then into mine at home haha) and since the old one is apparently a non-interferance motor so there shouldn't be any damage I was going to rebuild it for a spare my question is has anyone here ever played with these motors? I'm thinking of rebuilding it with a bigger cam, ported head and possibly bigger carb if I do that will it have enough power to spin the wheels? I've upgraded the brakes and suspension cause I want to drift it and was going to do a 4AGZE conversion but I got over it and can't be bothered spending much more money on it haha go back to finishing of my bimmer instead hehe I've taken it out and tried to drift it a few times, with the new brakes and suspension it deffinately feels a million times nicer on the road and I'm quite confident it would make a mad drifter with a bit more power, but just over spending money on it will a cam some headwork and a carb swap be enough to get the little beast sideways, I don't know anyone that's spent money on a 4A-C so I don't know how they'll respond to such mods Dave

hehe 0 private messages you sure you sent it?

superjamie : as I said I'd already bought a new coil and tryed it and I know how to use a multimeter I just wanted to know a basic diagram for wiring one completely independant of the original loom but the motor ended up having more wrong with it than I thought when I actually got a few spare minutes to check it out so I'm just going to buy Teddy's spare motor and throw that in

Jason or Teddy can I get a number or something to call one of you guys and arrange to get that motor? Xany and Irokin, how do you figure that? if you mean by just turning it over by hand and seeing how easy it spins (ie. feeling for contact) it doesn't always work like that. On more than one occasion I've seen a timing belt go and we turned the bottom end over by hand and couldn't hear or feel contact but when we pulled the head off the valves were completely mashed beyond recognision

haha the reason the idle changes so much on ET's and EXA's when you bypass all that is because you bypass the cold idle sensor and the car pours in WAY too much fuel to get any kind of decent idle

Xany you're a life saver Teddy I still will most likely take that engine off you cause my motor is getting a little tired

there are interferance and non interferance motors non interferance motors have enough piston and valve clearance so that in the case of a snapped timing belt there is no piston valve contact and you can get away with just replacing the belt not sure which one a 4A-C is though :lol: I might be interested in that 4A-C of yours, infact chances are I will take it I'll get back to you tomorrow after I pull the head off mine and see how damaged it is Dave