David
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Posts posted by David
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some more progress has been done, only thing next is to make baffles and tig weld it ( which I'm not doing myself )
but I would really like some feedback on how to make a good oil pan baffled
because I seriously are not sure what to do and what is necessary(trap doors,etc)
I won't exactly get 7G's in the corners or when braking, but it's better to build it well than blow the engine..
so does anyone have any ideas
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work in progress...
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didn't win the auction because stupid ebay didn't let me bid!! had to be registered in Australia :POSTPICS!:
sorry to bother you
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I don't know if you've seen this site before... but they make FRP panels... and some other very tasty KE70 bits and pieces.
yes I know.. already sent them an email half year ago with no response..
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Changing number 4 spark plug may prove difficult. or is it actually still easily reachable?
Your putting quite a lot of quality work into this car. Keep it up
that won't be a problem if using a ratchet with correct length extension pipe, probably 5cm clearance upwards..
I'm going to move the engine 5-6cm more, for a total of 15cm..
I'll either have to modify the sump or buy drysump.. I'll let my wallet decide:P
almost done with the firewall now..
did polish up the trunk and hood from one of my other ke70's
gonna make fibreglass bodyparts..
I still need a front apron/front panel, whatever you call it..
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can anyone help me out pickup an ebay item? I live in norway so it's a bit difficult for me since the seller wont ship sad.gif
i will pay the item directly to the seller using paypal, and pay you for shipping it to norway+ some extra for your trouble smile.gif
that is if anybody are willing to help me..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=280222781485
Thanks
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it doesn't seems like there is alot of interest in this car.. so this might be the last update from me
I have started modifying the firewall, approx 19-20cm more clearance
driver seat is moved approx 20cm more back
and using tilton floor mount pedalbox
engine is test mounted 9cm moved to the rear, using factory 4age mounts, you might think toyota had this in mind when they designed the block/mounts
3 holes has to be redrilled..
crossmember is modified, and reinforced, not complete
damn LHD cars!:cool:
exhaust header has to be custom made anyway.. so it won't be a big problem
flares test mounted.. i don't know exactly what car this is from.. probably ae86 because it has cutouts for bumpers
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engine being test mounted with new rubber mounts that lowers the engine
I'm going move the engine approx 8cm more to the rear to get better weight distribution
and here is a dyno run of a blacktop with 100% stock untouched, unmodified bottom-end, only modifications done:
same camshafts as me, ( 10.5mm lift ) toda valve springs, toda campulleys, trd 0.8mm headgasket, the head is not ported, stock exhaust manifold, 2.5" exhaust
torque being abit low because of the lack of compression that these camshafts need
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this car hasn't been street legal since 2005 or so..
we got much stricter rules here in norway than you got in australia
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here's pictures of the crash approx 6 months ago I think
had to change the front frame rail, luckily I was able to buy a new
also removed the inner fenders as seen in picture to save weight, and reinforced with 25mm pipe
much more rigid than stock..
had some rust here so I removed some metal
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it might got broken because there was almost no oil left in the diff when I removed it from the rear axle..
the pinion seal leaked badly and the reason might be that it overheated when you welded the differential.. or perhaps it's been that way even before you bought the car ;)
anyway.. I'm quoting what brownie said to me before it broke
"the stock ke70 rear axle is bulletproof"
perhaps bulletproof, but not unbreakable;)
what really amazes me is that after the diff broke we changed to a volvo 240 rear axle ( 8" diff, 280mm discs for those of you that don't know )
the mounts on the ke70 was cut of and welded to the volvo axle using a tape measure against rusty wheel arches and eye measurements in a rush..
a few weeks later brownie drove to a 4wheel alignment shop.. and the rear axle was actually better aligned than the front suspension!!!
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actually the mclaren f1 road car got the same stuff
but that car uses an electric motor, probably abit bigger than your average vacuum cleaner:P
I won't use any fans/motors at all
only shaping the underside of the car
the AE86 N2 SS WORKS car that runs on tsukuba have done it, it's a fast car, but the effect is not as big as the old formula 1 cars etc
maybe they didn't do it right?
anyway, I think it's worth a try, even if don't get real ground effect.. it can't really get any worse when it comes to aerodynamics on a ke70;P
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hello mr. brownie bear
here is your stock ke70 diff, do you want it back??
this diff was used before the bmw engine got boostpressure..
and it lasted a few burnouts + 1.5 laps at rudskogen raceway?
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yeah, but it's winter here now, so I couldn't use it anyway
at the moment I'm seriously thinking about doing something to the aerodynamics
if anyone have heard about the old lotus formula 1 cars in 1978-1980 era
also the caparral 2J "vacuum cleaner" from 1970 :2thumbs:
this car for an example used a large fan to create a vacuum under the car, to suck it down.. that resulted in much higher cornering speed, and got banned because the other cars behind got much dirt thrown at them
even 1 driver got blind on 1 eye because of this car
it's possible to create the same effect without fans, by using skirts that seals the side of the car, the skirts must be in contact of the road and some sort of rubber could be used
also by adding a extremely low front spoiler, and shaping the underside of the car and adding a rear diffuser you can create a venturi effect that results in higher cornering speeds
in 1979 they managed to get cornering speeds up to 5G, that's the exact same they do today, 30 years later, and now they got much better suspension and tires than they had 30 years ago!!
I don't know how great this will work on a ke70.. but I think it's worth a try? :hmm:
read this for more information on the ground effect
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here is a few action shots that was taken on the drift competition I attended last year
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try to cool it down by using ice or something similar, dry ice is the best
then use a hammer and chisel and you should be able to remove all the sound deadening in the whole car in a hour or two
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radiator with water weights approx 14kg
I'm doing it to get better weight balance
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new update:
removing as much weight as possible
radiator will be moved to the rear, and hopefully I will get some aluminium lines for water that's possible to bend without cracking
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we're just talking about arranging a really big gangbang here in norway
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er med på den ja!
bare gjemme unna spriten så han kameraten din ikke går på trynet igjen hehe
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halla bruningen
skjedd no særlig på 242'n i det siste eller?
harru flytta bakakselen lengre bak eller?
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Lots of good reading there. Seems like a lot of risks/engineering required to make it work but Ill be impressed if you can. How do you expect to get so much power when its only 3/4 as explosive as petrol? Youll have better mileage...
well, the E85 contains about 30% less energy, that is solved running 30--40% richer fueling :P
another big advantage of using E85 is there is no carbon buildup in the compression chamber or exhaust pipes
it burns so much cleaner it's almost like race fuel, except that race fuel cost 4-5 times as much!
also burning temperatures is much cooler, so there is less chance the engine will blowup
almost every engine can run E85 with a few modifications, but to get more power out of it the engine needs to be built to use E85.. except turbo engines..
I'm gonna run about 13:1 in compression ratio to maximize torque
the advantage of using E85 on a turbo engine is that you can run much higher boost pressure with no added risk of blowup
I don't know how much more power the fuel will give me, but if I'm getting 1 or 2 hp and it cost me nothing, that's good enough for me
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Whats the 85 percent ethanol fuel like, have you always used it?
no, I have never used it, except on a 4K engine just for testing
E85 is 104 octane, cost is 8 NOK/litre
shell has the best regular fuel which are 99 octane for 12-13 NOK/litre
the advantage of running E85 is that it runs much cleaner and cooler and gives more hp
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small update.. if anyone is interested in how the progress is going
welded in equal length 4link with uniballs at both ends
also did make a new section for the diff/tailshaft because the car is so low it got smashed by the diff/tailshaft
considering making new rear wheel housings, but that depends on what types of flares I will run.. I will really need some wider tyres next season
cusco pipe A arms with uniballs, and adjustable (bump steer )tie rods also uniballs
only thing left in suspension not using uniballs/spherical bearing/pillowball or whatever you call it is front and rear sway bar, I will change these to custom adjustable swaybar using roller bearings later, but for now stock ae86 will do
have also bought a blacktop 20v engine
and I got some special cams from TODA which are custom grinds, I won't tell the specs, but I know a guy that got similar cams which I have documented proof of 202BHP on a 100% stock blacktop 20v ( except the cams, valve springs and cam pulleys)
I will aim for alittle more.. about 210-220hp using VEMS ECU, and E85 fuel ( 85% ethanol, 104 octane )
How Much Weight Have People Managed To Strip Out Of There Ke70's??
in General Mechanical
Posted · Edited by David
I once weighted everything that is remove-able in my ke70, but my harddrive crashed and I don't feel like weighting everything over again :)
but here is some from my memory, please note that I cannot guarantee this is 100% correct
complete heater with fan everything approx 8kg + the water capacity
dashboard with instruments etc everything 6-7kg
doors frame ONLY no windows or any internal mechanism ( 2 door sedan model ) 10kg each
complete doors approx 25-30kg each ( 2 door model )
back seats around 9-10kg ( both of the 2 parts )
front fender approx 4kg each
old type mirrors approx 150gram each
new type mirrors 1.1kg each
for fibreglass parts you can calculate approx 1/3rd to 1/2 of the weight, but this really depends on how thick and what parts
lexan windows I assume 1/2 of the weight, the windows isn't very heavy, perhaps 10kg saved if you change all of them
rollcage add 35-40kg for a basic 6point rollcage, using 45/2.5mm for main pipe and 38/2mm for the rest, but this really depends on how you build it
i think 650kg ( + driver ) is possible if you got $$$
750kg without spending 1$ is possible
in rally it's more important to have the car balanced well than weighting less, it's easiest to remove weight in the rear, but if the car weight only 200kg on the rear axle it won't go anywhere.. only spin