brownevan

Awesome man! I would love to see pics; we're not too far away from each other considering this is a predominately AU site :) Post some pictures! What're the plans for the build? I have a 75 TE31; and with it's 70k original miles, nice orig paint, no rust, original floormats, dealership receipt, original windshield wipers(!!) (i changed them...), i'll probably put a fresh 1.75 inch exhaust with no 30+ year old holes, coilovers in the front, flip the leafs, and drive her daily :) I've got a KP61 that's currently in for body and paint with a mildly built 4k; getting a ground up restomod for the track....

that's exactly what's going on. is this something i should worry about?

i figured as much; that the advance change wouldn't cause preignition due to being overridden by the mechanical advance when the engine's really working. I have heard of 4k owners using the ported vaccum, the manifold vaccum, k series electric dizzy, and no advance whatsoever; I still haven't really discovered the tried and true way to set the ignition without breaking the bank. It appears that my starlet prefers the manifold vaccum for whatever reason; the idle lumpier when it's ran from the carb, but also well below 1000 rpm off the manifold, and the advance curve just feels more stable and less restricted when run off the manifold. so it did boost the idle a fair bit; my engine is cammed and I usually run premium octane (highest octane fuel available at the pump here in the usa), not sure of the exact rating. i'll catch that the next time i fill up. that sort of leads me into the next question; I just had a 1500$ top end rebuild done on my engine (burned valve), and when i get the car back, i'm getting some quiet but audible tappet noise if i give it hard throttle. were the mechanics just lazy in doing an adjustment? I'm no 4k expert (my corolla has a 2tc, and this is my first k motor), but I'm figuring that can be adjusted out somehow, and how will the ITB's i've got hidden away at home interact with the dizzy, and tappet noise? One other thing: does the port which you run the vaccum to on the dizzy matter? the mechanic told me that it was advancing too far through the outer port; but that seems to be the preferred one, and he advised me to use the side port and plug the other.

So I got my car back from the shop and they had ran a vaccum line to the side port on the dizzy from the carb; but i was doing some investigating and realized there was very, very little vaccum from the carb, and barely any change in idle when i pulled it. I was investigating the vaccum ports on the intake manifold, and the one on the upper left of the three was providing tons of vaccum, so i plugged it into the dizzy (same side hole on the dizzy) and it began to idle smoother immediately. i noticed a much higher level of smoothness when driving under 3k, and lots more coast when i let my foot off the gas in the low rpm range. is it possible that I advanced the timing curve too much by doing this and not re-setting the timing? last thing i want is detonation on a new top end rebuild; and the car doesn't shut off quite as happily as it did before i did this. thoughts?

hey everybody; I have a starlet kp61 here in the states with the 4k-c motor; and the previous owner sent me a broken electric dizzy (the aluminum mounting plate is snapped). i was wondering if i could run the electronic dizzy guts in my stock 4k distributor; as my 4k has the vaccum lines plugged and it's cammed. i'm getting what i believe to be some pretty retarded timing below 3000rpm. i've heard the electric dizzy will smooth these 4k's out quite a bit, and i'd love to make use of the ever hard to find electric dizzy guts here in the usa. thanks!

one little treat:

at low rpm, if i step on the gas, it's quite boggy compared to my stock 2tc, and then right at 2750 it picks up. could this just be my lumpy cam on a stock carb? i really need to get those sidedrafts on there......

BUMP! i need desperate help with this on my 4k engine. I need only for my vacuum advance to work; and just about everything in the car has been ripped out, plugged, or is missing... what's absolutely necessary to plug and run? any help will be greatly appreciated, my car won't run right under 2750 rpm...

i found this online on kp61 forum: i hooked it up exactly this way and it seems to improve my low rpm acceleration a bit, but the ignition timing is still off i think....

not to mention after a valve job; i still have tons of lash! is that because of ignition timing? and pardon my naivete, but i see two vaccum ports sticking out of the side of the dizzy; which one do i use to connect the carb, and which do i block? i heard there's a "secondary" vaccum line that's very important, and the charcoal canister as well?

So, I picked up the car today; and the mechanic said he tried to run the vaccum advance straight from the throttle body and it didn't work. he claims i need an electronic or centrifugal ignition; is that true? what am i missing? i just got a 4k back with 0 miles on a top end rebuild, and the car feels like a wet fart below 3250, and rips hard at 3500-5000.

Thanks guys. when i pick up the car on monday i'll let you know how it goes!

The baby supra's won't fit without slight modification to the rim, or a recessed bolt on the outside of the drum brake; so i threw the enkei clones back on, and snapped a photo. next, it's getting dropped. photos soon. I removed the fake 2pc bolts and stripped the clearcoat from the rear wheels, and haven't got to the front yet. what do you think, leave the bolts or put em' in the toolbox?

Is this the only line that the dizzy needs for ignition timing? it seems insane that i would get a grand worth of work done to my motor and they wouldn't consider connecting that single little piece of tube. would someone explain to me a little in detail the 4k vaccum system? just so i'm not so in the dark; i'm an amateur wrench, tryin my best :) thanks for all the feedback guys.

Funny you mention it :) I've got some CBR900RR sidedraught carbs waiting to go on the K motor; I just need a mani for them and don't have any resources for that out here in oregon without getting charged an arm and a leg. i bet one of you guys down under could get one to me almost as easily...

Hey everyone. So after my KP burned a valve less than 200 miles after purchasing it, I immediately sent the car into the shop for a new top end rebuild, new valves, gaskets, and to check out the engine, etc... from my recent purchase. Well, the starlet's previous owners have done quite a few good and bad things to the car: flares strut bar cam 2 inch exhaust the cheapest gauges possible all vaccum systems were indiscriminately ripped out and plugged no heater. and i'm not exactly sure what all he removed; not being a 4k expert. the shop i took it to did a good rebuild and adjustment, i'm sure, but when i went to go check on the car they hadn't touched the vaccum system, and sort of acted as if they didn't want to go there..... this was a performance shop that i assumed could make easy work of an old system like this... so that leads me to my question. what vaccum lines are required to run the dizzy to get proper ignition while cruising and at low rpm??? thanks in advance, and if any of you can help me, it will be a sigh of relief.

I would have loved my KP to have come with a 2TC.... the 4k that's in it has a cam, full 2in all the way back, full top end rebuild, and its zippy up above 3k, but the stock 2tc motor puts the 4k to shame in the low rpm range. I need to have my distributor recurved i think.... my 4k below 3000 is LAGGY, but its quick from 3-6000... I was just curious; I was like "how does this stock 2tc feel so good?"

those are the authentic american eagle baby supras??? I've got a bunch of the anchos y finos baby supra wheels; wish i had the lip on em' like your rears... :)

Haha, so I guess the question I really was curious about was the 3K vs 2TC...... any thoughts?

slight update: I picked up SIX baby supra wheels (for 75 bucks and some KP taillights!! :)) from a new friend and fellow KP owner here in portland. 3 14x5.5's, and 3 13x5's. 4 of them were painted a volk style copper, and two need a re-finish pretty badly; but I cleaned up the four painted ones (by hand in the living room), and threw the 14's on some 185/60's, and put them on the car. they came with all four toyota center caps! The 13's (pictured) are gonna have to wait for some 185/60's before I put them on the TE. they'll get high polished before the summer meets, but for now they look good and somewhat shiny. Photos of the car soon.. I had those enkei sports clones on the corolla for a bit because I had them lying around; but they make the car look at little too "510" in my opinion; the 8 spoke baby supras will give it a more stately, toyota vibe. Those two sit there.. half refinished. the other two are still on the TE. I'm gonna run it with narrow tires; tucked in neatly inside those huge corolla fenders, stock and somewhat old-school. but i'm definitely droppin the car at least 3 inches :) the 14 rear/13 front staggered combo will look nice on the corolla; very subtle, and those 13's on some low profile tires are gonna look so good.

thanks :) i've wanted this car for years and years; and i finally found one in great shape with low miles! YES. now i can focus on getting that KP track ready while still having a car to drive!

original paint; a little maguires will go a long way.... i dunno about fender mirrors, I've got them on my KP and i like the classic vibe of the single driver mirror. definitely lowered, wheels, full exhaust (small and quiet) to start; we'll see how stock i can manage to keep her :)

nice 6 window slot mags.

from "The 71-74 corolla website" TE and KE models: KE models have smaller front brakes and no brake booster. Battery tray on the right front corner. TE models have 9" disc brakes, brake booster and battery tray on the left front corner. TE came with a 2TC (Trueno models a 2TG), and KE models came with a 3KC. KE models had a manual choke as well, whereas the TE models had a "heat riser" choke (air is heated through a tube running through the exhaust manifold, which heats a spring attached to the stock carb, which opens the choke when hot). KE and TE engine mounts are different http://www.pgrramblers.org/corolla/index.cfm?ContentID=117

Thanks! Got some old CSS meshies i'm gonna put on her eventually; debating weather or not to wait for ae86 suspension and lowering blocks first....