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Jimmy P

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Jimmy P last won the day on September 17 2013

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About Jimmy P

  • Birthday 10/27/1981

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    Edmonds, WA, USA

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  1. My new brake master cylinder is from a Ford Contour. And I will be using it without a booster. The factory BMC and Booster will not fit with 5M-GE in the TE72 location. If I had an AE72 (looks identical, only made in 1983) I could use the factory BMC and the booster. They are mounted closer to the side of the car, like how they are mounted in an AE86.
  2. Well, I removed the extra metal on the firewall that was in the way of new steering column. I started by making a template of the new firewall pass-through. This was done by placing cardboard on the piece and tracing it. Then I placed the template on the firewall over the old hole; making sure to line up the three matching bolt holes with each other. After tracing a ruff line around the template, I went back and made the line straighter and darker. Then I cut out the hole and removed all sharp corners. Last, I taped off the area and painted the new hole. The next day I removed the old clutch master cylinder and replaced it with a new one. I also repainted firewall in that area where the paint had been eaten away. This should be the last body related work that needs to be done. I was kinda dreading this step, cause I hate sanding and painting. But it turned out pretty good. First; disconnect the pin that secures the pedal arm to the cylinder rod. Then, remove the two bolts (one outside, lower/ one inside, upper). My clutch line has already been cut and pinched off, so it did not need to be removed. In most cases you would need to disconnect the hard line that feeds the high pressure to the slave cylinder. Once everything has been disconnected, simply pull the clutch master out. If the reservoir has fluid still in it, make sure not to spill any on the paint, it is very corrosive. I took this time to sand down the old paint and surface rust. An extension on a wire wheel works perfect for this, but some places still require the old wire brush. Once the area was clean and rust free, I blew out the sediment with the air supply, and wiped the surface with some rubbing alcohol. Then I taped off the area and set up some lights to heat the metal and help with the drying (it's also helpful to see what you're doing). I applied six coats, not counting the first coat; which was a light dusting to get a good tack on the surface. I left 5-10 mins between each coat, depending on how thick the coat turned out to be. Then I left it to dry and cure for about two hours under the lights. I then removed the paper and tape. Back to the clutch master; you will need to keep the pedal attaching bracket and pin from the old unit. They should be easy enough to remove by hand by unscrewing it. But you may need a wrench if it's a bit sticky. Attach the bracket to the new unit and fit it onto the car. Tighten down the two bolts and reattach the cylinder rod to the pedal arm with the pin and keeper. Make sure to bench bleed the new unit before hooking the high pressure line back to it. This will keep excessive air bubbles from entering the hydraulic system.
  3. I stopped by Home Depot and picked up a bunch of 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch black wiring loom. It is cheap, protects the wires from the elements, gives it a factory look, and looks great! I collected the wires together that run across the face of the car. These wires include the Alternator wires, headlights, turn signals, and corner lights. Also the horn and/or fog lights if you want them. I wrapped them in the plastic loom, and zip tied the whole thing to the car in a few locations. I didn't run the ground wires through the loom, because they can just attach to the frame at any location. This is also how Toyota does the stock ground wires. I start by gathering all the pieces that I'll need, and trimming the heat shrink tubing to the proper length. Then I strip the sheathing from the ends of the wires, and twist the copper strands together. Then I slide the precut piece of heat shrink tubing over the wire and out of the way. Next, I crimp on a ring connection. Last, slide the heat shrink tubing down into the crimp connector until it's stuck, and apply heat. I use a lighter, but a heat gun is good because it won't leave the burn marks. I kept the factory plugs for the parking lights, because I knew I would be hooking it back together. This will keep a "factory" look, and be helpful if I ever need to replace the light socket. All wire to wire connections are soldered together, then heat shrink tubing is used to keep the connections clean and dry. Well.... I did some work last week, but I forgot to bring the camera. So, here's what I did; I removed the steering rack from the AE71 cross member, and then I cleaned the entire unit, lower control arms and all (minus the rack) really well. Next, I bolted the cross member into the TE72, and made sure everything was tight. Then I measured the upper core support and found the best places to cut it, in order to remove the center section. I figure out that I needed to cut it inside of the holes. This way I'll have lots of metal-to-metal contact when welding it back on. Last, I used a hacksaw to slice the core support in two places. It was a synch, and if I need more clearance, I can always cut more. However, the final placement of the radiator is still a mystery. So I may never have to weld this piece back in. This would mean hood pins for sure.
  4. On my AE86 I ran Tokico HP (blue) front and rear shocks and struts with Eibach Pro kit springs front and rear. Poly bushings basically everywhere too. With good tires, it's a great street setup, but for drift you'll want way stiffer; I'd run Tokico HTS front and rear shocks and struts with TRD 8 (front) and 6 K/MM (rear) springs, or Swift springs of the same rates. If you love coilovers, then go to town in the front, but I'd keep the rear conventional. Bigger sway bars front and rear for sure, Whitline makes a great set, but I'd choose Tanabe, if I got the choice. Make sure to run bump steer spacers on the front control arms, they make negative camber units too, and they're pretty nice for that extra slammed camber look (if you're into that). Out back should get an adjustable pan hard rod (since the car will be much lower than factory height), and if you have deep pockets, several companies make adjustable four links. Although, if you buy poly bushings for the four links, then don't worry about wasting the cash on adjustable units. More importantly though..... get a good quality limited slip differential, Cusco, TRD, Kaaz, or any actual brand name are all great options. Just shop around and ask people who have actually bought and run the brand they recommend, don't trust peoples opinions unless they owned it and drove on it. Don't forget brakes, steering, clutch, and a racing seat...... Holy cow, it gets expensive to participate in motorsports :) I hope this helps a little, I'm eager to see what you end up doing with it!
  5. Thanks for the question; I'm not a fan of push rod motors, and I defiantly wanted EFI. I've seen some monster 3T-C engines and 4A-GE's too, But I really wanted to do something different. Hahaha and different seems to be exactly what I have here... :) Wiring, wiring, wiring............. Next on the list is to run the wiring through the dash and start hooking things back together. I notched the hole on the passenger side so the AFM connector could fit through. From the passenger side I started pushing the entire wiring harness through the car. I fed it through the hole inside the passenger wheel well. Then I carefully wiggled the harness and pulled it through the hole and ran it across the dash and out the driver's side wheel well hole. I had to drill a hole on the Driver's side, for all the wires to come through. This is how the harness will enter the engine bay. Apart from being really ugly AND in the way, I wanted the battery tray gone! I started by drilling out the spot welds. Oops! I accidentally drilled all the way through, three times. :oops: Once all the welds had been drilled, I tapped the side of the tray, and it popped loose. There was a lot of rust and dirt under the tray that I could not clean before, but now I can fix it. I started by rounding the hole on the driver's fender so it could accept a firewall grommet that I modified. Then I stopped by the local auto parts store and picked up a wire wheel and a can of spray paint (that is extremely close to the factory paint). Before: Second coat: After: More updates real soon, hope everyone is enjoying so far!
  6. Well, I got some more work done, I removed the front bumper! Yeah, I guess it's really not that big of a deal, oh well, I love these cars.. Let's go through my steps shall we: First step, Disconnect the wiring to the turn signals. Then remove the bolts in the engine bay. NOTE: The bolts on the battery side are usually pretty well rusted. I had to apply a little more force to get them to break free. Then remove the two bolts on the face. Last, remove the clips holding the edges of the bumper cover onto the sides of the car. (under the corner parking light) Then just grab the bumper and pull it out. I've got a ton of work done on the supra wiring. I've removed almost 30 lbs of wire, relays, and tape. I got a huge freakin bag full of old supra wires. Ha ha ha ha ha and I laugh everything I think about the thirty lbs I just removed from the final project. I still need to figure out how to hook the supra and TE72 wires together. I did not take any pictures of the wiring process, because my hands were so sticky from messing with the 25 year old electrical tape, and I didn't want to ruin the camera. I will take some photos of the finished product (if I get around to it). I got a surprise in the mail also!!!! My wife showed up at the garage with a big box addressed to me. "What could this be" I said to myself. I removed the outer packaging, and there was a strange hieroglyphic. It read "OBX performance exhaust". HOORAY!!! It had finally arrived! I tore open the next box and as soon as the last flap was moved aside, an amazing sparkle appeared! Yes my friends, 11 feet of polished stainless steel shines like a diamond. I test fitted it to the engine. It hits the P.S. bracket, but that’s not a problem at all because I removed all that junk anyway. I only had the bracket on the engine because it also is the forward engine hook. So I will have to install the header while its in the car. At that should be fine, there is lots of room on the exhaust side. I built a mock-up of the new dash panel to test fit my gauges. It is just some scrap cardboard I had laying around. I used the layout of the gauges to make the gauge wiring harness. I bought a professional set wire crimpers and a new soldering gun, just to do the wiring right. This is the gauge harness. It should work great when installed!
  7. Wow Anthony, it looks great! Super clean under the hood! Have you done much with the suspension? Keep up the great work
  8. Cams can help make a 4A-GE more powerful, but at what cost..... With cams you also need a good exhaust manifold, and intake. That way you can utilise the better flow. But now that you've got all this air blasting through your engine, you'll need to match it with fuel, so now you're getting a better fuel pump, FPR, injectors, and possibly engine management to run it all. To really put cams to use; the head will need to be heavily massaged too. 4A-GEs are awesome engines, but be ready to flip out your checkbook if you want to make some extra ponies.
  9. Yeah the cost of a used 4A-GE is kinda ridiculous these days, I've had my fair share of AE86's to play with, and I still own an '85 MR2 (AW11) but I really wanted to try something new and original. We'll see if it backfires on me. hahaha! So, this weekend I got some good work in, I decided to remove the cross member with all the suspension pieces still attached. This way I don’t have to unbolt everything piece by piece. The list of things to remove includes: 18 bolts, two brake lines, a steering box, and a pitman arm bracket. Then the entire setup just drops right out. These are the main areas. The forward brace (where the tension rods and sway bar attach) The four bolts that hold the cross member (two on either side) The three bolts at the top of the shock towers I started with the brake line. Remove the clip that holds the brake line in place against the inner fender. I used a pair of pliers to pull the clip out. Once the line is free, use a 17mm and a 10mm wrench to loosen the brake line compression fitting. Next remove the bolts on the skid plate. Then remove the eight bolts holding the tension rod brackets. Remove the four bolts holding the steering box to the steering column. Then remove the three bolts holding the steering box assembly. Once the Steering box is free, set it on the cross member. Then disconnect the pitman arm bracket and make sure it is out of the way. P.S. By this time the entire steering system will be loose. It does not like to co-operate, don't let it hurt you. It's heavy! LOL The steering set up should look something like this. Then remove the four bolts holding the cross member to the frame rails. For the last step I mounted the wheels back on finger tight. Just so I could roll the front section around in one piece. Finally, remove the three bolts at the top of each shock tower. And make sure to stand clear. The entire sub frame will fall as soon as the last bolt is out. All nice and clear! More updates soon guys, wish me luck...
  10. This weekend I plan to finish taking apart the front end on the Corolla. Thanks for looking! :rock:
  11. Now, since all the wiring is out. We can pull the motor. Hooray!!!! I started by checking to see what was holding the 5M-GE in place. I narrowed it down to: fuel lines (two), drive shaft, transmission mount, and engine mounts. So I took care of those items and brought the engine hoist over. I chained up the bad boy and started lifting. It got hung up for a second on the PS lines but a handy 2X4 helped persuade the PS line to let go. She is out! This transmission is real greasy, but a little scrubbing should clean it up nicely Much better!
  12. I need to remove the dash harness from the Supra, so I can transfer it to the TE72. The process of removing the dash harness took me hours and hours. The entire dash and all the braces and air ducts and vents need to be removed in order to free the harness. The result is a complete uncut harness, ready to be swapped into the TE72. 8) I started removing the dash harness from the driver’s side. I figured this would be the easiest, but you can do it any way you like. There are a number of screws and bolts that hold the plastic dash pieces in place. Systematically remove all retaining hardware and lightly tug on each piece, this way you won’t break something if you forgot to remove a screw somewhere. The radio was gone when I bought the car so I didn’t have to worry about removing it. But the previous owner had a lot of “custom” mods on the car, so I have to cut through his bad wiring to get down to the factory harness. Toyota made it easy to get to the ECU in these cars, which is quite nice. Simply open the glove box. Unscrew the door. Remove the backing inside the glove box. And there it is, nicely tucked up under the dash. Here is the center consol wiring. These old school Supras are crazy luxurious. There is a little fan inside the center consol that sucks air from the rear seat cigarette ash tray, and filters it!!! But all these “niceties” make the car very heavy. And make the wire harness way too confusing. Pulling out the gauge cluster. Not too hard, just remove all the attaching screws and disconnect the speedometer drive gear. Out she comes! If this looks fun to you, than you can stop reading right here; there is something wrong with you. To feed the engine harness through the firewall, you must disconnect the plugs from the ECU. Then move the Fan motor housing out of the way. Finally! The entire wiring harness is uncut and completely out of the car. Now comes the task of removing all non essential wires from the loom. IE: power windows, power door locks, power moon roof with sunroof, power mirrors, cruise control, auto climate control, and all that other junk.
  13. Also, forgot to add that I stopped by a local automotive bookstore and found the 1984 Toyota Supra, Factory Service Manual full wiring guide. It had some really great detailed drawings of the wiring layout and function in the Supra. So I swung into Kinko’s and had them blow-up the drawings..... to NINE FEET WIDE! I hung the poster on the wall so I could see it from inside the Supra. It was a fantastic help, every time I had a question, I would just look at the wall and there would be the answer. Here is my Wife, showing me what I am doing wrong. hahaha!! But it really is a great resource, I would encourage anyone who's doing a similar type of project to have good access to the right diagrams.
  14. Thanks for the kind words! I chose the 5M over the 7M because of money time, and the 5M-GE is period correct for the early 80's. So now I started to clean up the TE72’s engine bay a little. It’s not quite done yet, but I got most of the heavy dirt and grease off. I also started to pull the 5M-GE from my Supra. I am working slowly on this part because I need to remember where everything plugs back in, when I’m done. I am also removing the power steering pump and A/C compressor from the engine. I have not been taking as many photos during this part, simply because other people might just get a 5M-GE and transmission, and not the entire car. I started off by just studying the engine and its components. I wanted to feel comfortable around the motor and get a good idea where everything was under the hood. This allows me to plan out the engine swap better, One thing is for sure, there are a lot of vacuum hoses on this engine. I will probably delete all the EGR stuff and most likely do away with all the vacuum controlled jibby-jobbies. But for right now, let’s just take this one step at a time. Here I am trying to sort out all the crazy vacuum lines. Let's look at some retarted over-engineering from toyota shall we; to remove the power steering pump from a 5M-GE: First, stand in awe for nine minutes at all the crazy friggin braces and bars and brackets that hold the pump to the motor. There are two big braces on the back of the pump. One bolts onto the exhaust manifold and the other bolts onto the engine block somewhere under the manifold. Then of course, there is a bracket that connects the pump to the alternator. To even remove the pump, you have to: drain and pull the radiator, and fan shroud, detach the Power steering pump pulley with an impact wrench, and undo about five bolts. :roll: It is frickin ridiculous. I was glad to see it go when it finally came off. After removing all the useless garbage there was a surprising amount of space on the exhaust side of the engine bay. The motor doesn't seem so big anymore. Next, I unplugged and removed the engine bay harness. I also removed the cruse control. Since that garbage is out of the way, we can move onto better things. The engine bay harness is really made up of three different wiring looms. The first loom spans the face of the car, connecting the headlights, parking lights, turn signals, horns, and headlight motors. This harness is known as the “headlight harness”. The second harness is on the passenger side of the car. This connects to the vacuum switches for the Charcoal canister, and the auto climate control valve. It also carries the wires for the AFM, alternator, oil pressure switch, and a couple of grounds. The third wiring loom is much larger than the first two, and enters the engine bay through a hole in the driver’s side fender. This carries the main wires to the engine bay fuse box. The connections in this loom include; the cruise control circuit, ignition coil, starter motor, engine main fuse, entire heater control circuit with fuses and relays. All three of these wiring harnesses connect to one another via “quick disconnect” plugs, to form the engine bay harness. Lots of fun! The engine harness is separate from all of this mess. It arrives in the engine bay through a grommet in the firewall. It includes temp sensors, throttle Position Sensor, distributor wiring, crank angle sensor, and other essential electrical engine components. The other end of the engine harness is the ECU which will need to be removed with the dash harness. And that’s an entirely other day altogether.
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