corollaTE27Fan

Can anyone verify the maximum diameter for shock inserts that fit the standard KE20 front struts. I ordered some KYB rear MR2 AW11 inserts for my lowered KE20 standard front struts. The supplier has sent me Sachs branded shock inserts and the diameter measures 45mm which I think is too big. Does anyone know what the diameter of the comparable KYB AW11 rear strut inserts is as I believe they may be a little smaller in diameter. I don't really want to take my current shock inserts out just to find they are too big. Any help appreciated. Thanks fellas

Fitting some 13" x 6" wide wheels to my standard KE20 lowered by 1.5" all round. Thinking of fitting 175 65 13 tyres as they will be very close to the standard 12" steel wheel rolling diameter. Will I have any problems with tyre edges hitting front struts, the alloys I am using have the same backspace and offset as the standard 12" steel wheels? Thanks fellas!

Thanks fella, will have a look. I really must look at emigrating to Aus as you guys seem to be able to get classic Jap car parts so much easier than us folks here in the UK.

It appears that there is just one common brake drum for the KE series cars with the part number 42431 - 12011. I could not find a part number for the front brake drums on the very early cars and suspect it might be the same as the rear. Out of interest, the TE series cars use a slightly different brake drum with the part number 42431 - 14010 and the two can get muddled. Hope this is of some help.

There seem to be two diff types for the KE20, the Jap spec and the built outside Japan spec ie the Borg Warner spec. I am no authority on parts differences but maybe you have drums for a Borg Warner spec diff/axle rather than the Jap spec diff/axle. I have an OE parts catalogue somewhere at hiome and if you can bear with me for a day or so I will have a look see if there are any alternative part numbers noted

Anyone know?

Hi Banjo 70's Corolla's here in the UK over the last year or so have nearly doubled in value, I saw one in Ireland sell recently for around 8000 Euros or £6000 which works out at about $11,500 Australian dollars! Fortunately I got mine for around 2/3rds of the market price here in the UK just before prices started to rise. My ultimate dream is to own a TE27 before I pop my clogs.

Does anyone know if MK2 Escort rear lowering blocks fit a KE20 as I can't get specific KE20 ones here in the UK.

Thanks Banjo The KE20 is super rare here in the UK.and any mods I do will be reversible. The car itself has done only 41000 miles and I am the third owner, the previous owner restored the car and its totally rust free. History wise it was purchased here in the UK and is RHD and owned by a little old lady who garaged it alll its life. It's totally original down to the tool kit and picnic tables that I am lead to believe were a Toyota accessory available here in the UK.

Now looking at shocks and being in the UK, i don't have access to the parts that you chaps do in Aus and being a novice at this also I need to use bolt on stuff rather than get bogged down in modifying stuff to fit, I have been reliably informed that standard MR2 (aw-11) shocks fit the standard KE20 front struts when lowering the front and Ford Escort Mk2 shocks the rear when lowering the rear, but what my source hasn't told me is whether I need the fronts or rears from these cars. Do any of you guys have any similar knowledge or can verify what would work when using standard lowering springs on the front giving a 35 - 40mm drop and 50mm lowering blocks only on the rear. Thanks guys!

Thanks for the replies chaps. I only want to lower the car for aesthetic reasons as I will be fitting some alloys. Due to dire parts availability here in the UK I will keep to 1.5 inches if that means all I need is to look at replacing bump stops.

If I lower my presently unmodified 1974 UK spec KE20 by using lowering springs at the front and either by using blocks or modifying the leaves of the rear springs should I also consider changing the shocks. If yes what is the best source (i am in the UK) and would I need to consider any suspension mods/adjustment. Any advice chaps would be appreciated.

Thanks for the response Pete, I have trial fitted a wheel and the standard road wheel nut goes on but not fully on the standard wheel stud, I reckon I would need a stud about a half inch (13mm or so) longer than the standard. existing stud on the car. Just wondered if there is a rule of thumb for working out the optimum stud length as I don't want to find they are too long so I can get a closed head wheel nut on. On the centre console question would anything from the AE86 fit as parts for these are generally a little easier for me to find.

Can someone confirm the best stud length to use when fitting alloy wheels to the standard KE20 hubs both front and rear as I can't work out what is best length to use. I will be using an aftermarket closed nut rather than reusing the standard open wheel nuts Also, can anyone recommend a long centre console that fits or can be modified to fit the standard KE20. Thanks chaps

Are these the ones? www.sparepartstore24.co.uk/2160628-japanparts I am really struggling to find some here in the UK and did not appreciate getting hold of such parts would be so difficult. Confirmation and/or any advice would be appreciated.

I am looking to fit a twin carb setup to my 74 KE20 whilst I collect parts for my 4AGE conversion. I have tried to find a set of original twin carbs without luck but understand that Dellorto DHLA 40's can be used. Here in the UK I am being advised that fitting twin carbs causes water leak issues and that you need to replace the head but not sure yet why or what head needs to be used. Just looking for a second opinion on this

Have been reading oodles of stuff about Ke20 engine conversions and had hope that the 4AGE route was the way to go but I am now having second thoughts. The reason is that here in the UK 4AGE stuff is becoming hard to get hold of, not long ago you could buy a 'crate' rebuilt motor and gearbox complete for around £2k but shortage in supply of good secondhand engines and boxes is pushing up the price to around £5k. Whatever I do i don't want to go much bigger than 1600cc to 2000cc and would prefer a twin cam as it just looks so right in the Ke20 engine bay. Current thought have switched to Ford engines, especially early Cosworths, Mazda/Miata MX5's and Vauxhall 'red tops' which are plentiful in the UK. Whatever I do I will be doing from scratch with no prior experience. Any thoughts you folks may have would be appreciated.

Thanks chaps I have found a Clymer and a Haynes manual for reasonable price in the USA for further reference.

Appreciate your reply Pete, just what I needed. Cheers

Only had my KE20 a few weeks and never had one before so still finding my way around the mechanicals. Need to understand how the front brake disks come off so I can change my warped front disk and fit longer wheel studs. I can see 4 bolt heads which I assume releases the hub plate and then 2 bolts that hold the caliper in place. If I remove these bolts will I be able to get the disks off? With regards to the rear drums I can't see any set screws holding the drum on and can't figure out how they come off. I can however see what look like four ribs in the very centre of the drum but again can't see how to turn this to release the drum I have a Toyota manual which has lots of great pictures of the front and rear brakes but sadly no notes on how to actually get to the discs and remove the drums. Any help/tips would be appreciated.

I wish we had old fashioned breakers yards here in the UK but sadly healthy and safety legislation has all but killed them off. I wont have a problem getting the wheel studs its just dealing with getting the old ones out of the rear wheel hubs that could be a problem.

Got a good deal on the TWR Hurricane wheels in the end. They have an identical off sett as the standard road wheels and are 6J and 13" diameter and fit nicely in the arches though can't use them just yet as they need a refurb and I need to get some longer wheel studs and some spigot rings to get the wheels fitted hu centric as at present they centre on just the wheel studs. I need about 15 mm additional length on the studs to get some closed head nuts on properly. I believe Lexus IS300 studs might just do the trick, any tips on best length to go for on stock hubs. I can see that front ts will be easy to do but not sure yet about the rears as there may not be enough room to get longer studs in - any tips on how best to do the rears? Cheers

I agree entirely but its gonna take me a while to source parts so in the meantime I was going to run the car as it is but it needs a little more street cred in my opinion hence changing the wheels. As it stands with the deal I have on the wheels and the cost of refurbing plus new tyres I can have my temp street cred for peanuts and save my reddies for the serious upgrades. I am OK with the engine and gearbox as I should be able to source these from within the UK but the 'T' series front and rear end parts will probably have to come from further afield which will take a bit longer as shipping costs tend to double the overall cost of whatever I look at. Thanks for the advice thus far, maybe I should just emigrate to Australia and bring the car with me!

Looks like some sleepless nights on Import Monster then!, that's if I don't go for the RX7 wheels I have found though I am not sure about the offsett on them.

Found some old RX7 wheels for sale locally to me but not sure what they would look like on a KE20. What do you guys reckon, anyone able to photo shop them onto a dark coloured KE20?