wenisman

Well I took a short break to switch jobs, but I spent that time thinking on how to proceed. So using the old steering arm, some wood and a vice I made a bend with the right radius. With a few manual adjustments with my favourite hitting stick I think it will fit. So I checked the radius on the other side and I think it will work.

This post isn't really car related, but I'm doing the cycle challenge this month in order to raise some funds for kids with cancer. So I made a stand for the front wheel, I needed something that could articulate to counter the compression of the front forks. So some square tubing, 3mm plate, a rose joint and a mount from a car rack

So I started on the side of the frame which was also buckled. When I painted stripped it I could see that the original repair had just welded the frame to the skin as the two were different sizes. After a little work it was at least the right size again. And then a bit more hammer and dolly work and it's looking mostly back in line I also straightened out the crease a little further up whilst I was at it.

I then decided to try and straighten the frame... it's been a small odyssey. I started with the bottom. You can see the crease mark to where it was originally pushed into. I have had to massage it a long way out but the metal is literally falling apart So I marked out a battle plan on what peices I need to remake for that bottom section. You can see where chunks of metal literally broke off the bottom. I have had several attempts at home to get these right, but I just can't seem to make it how I want to so I'll have to go back to the workshop for some professional advise

So I decided to weld the hole in the window sill with mixed results. But it was better than trying to hold the small peice in place as it would have just melted away. But once it was linished back it looked reasonable

Thanks banjo, I know it's funny but when I started the restoration 18 months ago I had never welded or done any form of metal shaping. I know I took Tafe courses and spent time at a professional shop to learn the skills, but for a complete novice this is a daunting task. All that said I do really enjoy it, you're right in that the process is gratifying to see how this is turning out. But it's funny to think I'm now doing the work at home, and hopefully someone will read this blog, my journey of learning and it inspires them to restore their car. Because if I can do it, well anyone can

There are still some sections that are very thin, even after welding. So along the edge of the window sill I started grinding out the thin material Then a very small patch was made, using my rudimentary tools but it looks like it will do the task. It's tricky to try and tack in place, I will head to Bunnings and grab some very small fridge magnets or thin jawed vice grips to hold it.

Well the linishing back of the welds is done The window sill turned out pretty well. You can see the ripples in the light so I am planishing out with the hammer and dolly.

And then the window sill was welded into place The weld started well, but then there were sections where the parent metal was still corroded so I had to fill large gaps with filler rod But now the main welding is done I'll linish things back and straighten the weld area.

I have had as to take a small break but I'm now back on the tools. I started by welding the bottom of the tail gate in fully. Took a little trial and error as I haven't used tig on my home welder before. But with a little fine tuning I was happy with the result. To try and minimize the warping I did a stitch weld tactic. I welded between every alternate tac, then let it cool before I went back and did the finishing pass.

Just a quick update as I have been busy with work and family life. But I have taken a wire wheel to the frame and skin to remove the loose rust, and completed the first pass with some Scotch Brite. So now that it's clean I have linnished the tacks back so that it can be welded up. But there where some more tears in the steel around the edges, so I have tacked those so things don't warp out of shape before the final weld

And on a side note, after seeing some cars and doing some internet searches I have seen this as a fuel cap/flap option. https://www.haganauto.com/product_p/fd45rqp.htm Would take some work to make it fit Kevin but it's certainly an option.

Quickly putting the skin on the frame, and test fitting back to the car... It fits, a little tight on the passenger side, but I expected that as I still have some shrinking to go to get the profile right. Double checking the glass as well shows plenty of room for the rubber as well. So now it's back at home I'll linish back the tacks and weld it in fully. Then I'll take the wire brush and clean up all the rust and hopefully apply a layer of rust converter and primer.

The base of the tail gate was templated and then I cut a new peice of steel. It was folded, shrunk on the seam and then I put it through the English wheel to get a nice crown and get into the shape of the tail gate. Then I cut the rusted bottom section off and I have tack welded the new bottom section in place. I know this tailgate is taking some time, but the light is at the end of the tunnel. Next I'll try for it back on the car to make sure the skin is good. Then I'll start fixing the frame

I started work in the major damage to the tailgate, it started with taking many a profile of the various shapes and curves from the good side. And then I started to put the body line back into the center of the tailgate. This unfortunately showed up that there was a large split in the steel that I have tacked together whilst I get the main shape back into the panel Then I started work with the hammer and dolly to remove all the wrinkles and the large creases. This then left the steel very proud as it was badly stretched from the accident. So with a multitude of hot shrinks I have begun the chasing of shape back into the tailgate But it's starting to look like a tailgate again

But back in my own garage I have also finished straightening the grill brace, so now it's nice and straight down the main channel. I am still deciding what to do with the actual bracket for the grill. I might drill out the spot welds and fashion a new brace as this one is very bent. I will give it a paint strip and see what it looks like. But it's rust free for the most part, so a run over with the wire wheel and the rust converter, primer paint and it should be ok

It's certainly an interest restoring old cars and strangely cathartic. But I'll see how far my abilities go and how Kevin finally turns out. Comparing my work with the professionals in the workshop shows I have a long way to go, but every day is a school day. Getting a larger workspace with more of my own tools, that would be the dream. I think that would be retirement for me, just working on cars and not the desk job. Right now my garage is a little cramped, That is my home setup, the suspension is now packed away in boxes and I'm working on the bonnet, some rust repair and then I'll deskin that too. But now on that later 😁

Thanks banjo, I actually go to a work shop where they restore cars professionally, and after hours they run classes where I pay time to be able to use their machines and they help with guidance on how to repair. So once a week I go to motorretro to do the bigger pieces or do things that I don't have the skills at the time to tackle. But some work I'll do at home, I have a welder, hammers, grinders and a will to use them. So the front apron, all the suspension stuff was done at home But i don't work in the industry, I'm a desk jockey who has been learning these skills as I go. I took a few tafe courses and through companies like motorretro have gained the confidence to do these jobs.

I have been busy with work so haven't had the time to work on Kevin, however a lot of thought went into the plan for rest of the tail gate. I decided to fully deskin the tailgate before I tackle the damage on the bottom, this was mainly due to the twisted frame. So with plan in hand I got stuck in deskinning the tail gate. I Drilled out the remaining spot welds and then split the seams around the edges. To give me two halves With the tail gate split you can see the amount of rust internally, but also the dented and twisted frame on the bottom. For the keen eyed out there, I have put a few pilot holes that go right through both panels. So when it comes time to join them together I can insert a cleko and make sure it's all lined up. I have started blocking out the damage to the skin so I can take a good enough pattern to cut the bottom off completely

So I spent some cutting the sill off the window so I could fettle it a bit more. And then it was a case of tacking the new sill back on one tack at a time and then trying to combat the warping. So now you can see that the light is even, the tailgate is no longer being pulled out of shape by the sill The left side still is out of shape because of all the damage from the accident. But the next task is to make the bottom of the tailgate.

So the after removing the top sleeve and then putting on a rubber sleeve from a Hilux the rear shock fits inside the rear mount. I'll secure it with a house clamp or something in the future. Because of a larger top bolt diameter and larger bushing I had to file the top mount hole to 18mm. But all up the rear shock looks good to me 🙂

But I had had to change tactics on rear shocks. The original shock I was going to use was to wide, taking the top sleeve off and putting it in the mount shows a modern adjustable shock isn't going to work But nether the less, garage48 have come to the rescue. An upside down shock fits in. It fits, however it does mean that the adjustment screws are now trapped inside the between the mount and the boot floor. So if I do find that I need to adjust the shocks regularly then I may have to cut a hole in the boot floor and fashion a removable plate.

But the new peice was roughly fitted It's not a great fit as it's pulling the skin of the door down. However I have tacked it in place whilst I test for the rear window with the rubber seal. I still need to deskin the door to fix the accident damage. So I can fettle the window at that time

Strange how time flies, but the bottom of the tail gate window was badly corroded. So I have been fabricating a new peice. It's been a few hours of fettling. But first i had to remove the old rusted metal.

Yeah I find with the blue poly bushings you really need to keep them greased very well. So I'm hunting around for a greasable shackle bolts in the right size. But I have also been busy on the tailgate. The first rusty corner was removed Then a new peice was fabbed up, welded in and file finished into place The small holes were filled with weld once the over all shape was back to where I needed it to be